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IAUG4    1b55 
AUG  1  3  ia5y 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL 


A  DESCRIPTION  OF  ALL  STANDARD  BREEDS  AND 
VARIETIES  OF  BANTAMS. 


ZPXJLIjY    ILLTJSTI^^TEID. 


BY  T.  F.  McGREW, 

NEW  YORK  CITY. 


PRICE  KIKXY  CENTS. 


Published  by  the  Rewable  Poultry  Journal  Publishing  Co., 
quincy,  illinois,  u.  s.  a, 


COPYRIGHTED  B 
RELIABI,E  Porl.TRY  JOURNAT-  PrBI.l 


INTRODUCTION. 

ANTAMS  have  gained  a  position  in  the  fancy  far  beyond  the 
wildest  hopes  of  their  most  ardent  admirers.  Only  a  few  years 
ago  they  were  spoken  of  as  "Banties,"  and  those  who  fostered 
,^^  them  were  considered  a  little  off  the  regular  line  of  the  poultry 
fraternity;  to-day  they  have  the  attention  of  the  poultry  world, 
and  the  most  successful  breeders  in  the  land  pay  them  tribute.  In 
England,  Canada  and  the  United  States  the  most  accomplished  breed- 
ers are  using  their  utmost  endeavor  to  produce  some  one  or  more 
kinds  of  these  miniature  fowls  of  a  surprising  quality,  so  as  to  astonish 
their  fellow  fanciers  and  gain  prominence  in  the  Bantam  Kingdom. 

In  1816  Moubray  devoted  to  Bantams  only  thirteen  lines  of  his 
book  on  domestic  poultry;  to-day,  if  alive,  Burnham  could  write  a 
book  on  the  Bantam  craze.  Forty-five  years  ago  Messrs.  Wingfield 
and  Johnson  spoke  of  seven  varieties,  all  that  were  known  at  that  time; 
to-day  we  have  over  forty  kinds  and  colors,  all  fine  in  form  and  plu- 
mage. 

So  much  has  been  said  and  written  within  the  last  few  years  about 
Bantams  that  it  would  be  quite  impossible  to  say  much  of  them  that 
has  not  been  previously  stated.  In  compiling  this  volume,  the  author 
has  gone  through  many  books,  written  letters  of  inquiry  to  fanciers  all 
over  the  world,  and  talked  with  every  one  known  to  him  who  knew 
aught  of  the  subject,  Facts  thus  obtained,  together  with  those  of  his 
own  personal  knowledge,  are  herein  recorded  for  the  benefit  of  the 
reader. 

It  is  the  author's  wish  to  present  this  subject  not  in  a  lengthy, 
scientific  manner,  but  in  a  short,  concise  way  that  may  be  both  attrac- 
tive to  the  amateur  and  interesting  to  the  matured  fancier.  Should 
this  desire  be  fulfilled  he  will  be  fully  compensated  for  the  many 
hours  spent  in  search  and  preparation  of  the  data  contained  herein. 

T.  F.  McGREW. 

1899 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


CHAPTER  I. 


HE  proper  housing  of  Bantams  is  the  first  and  most 
important  point  for  consideration.  Almost  any  place 
will  do  for  them,  provided  it  is  reasonably  warm  in  cold 
weather,  and  free  from  dampness  at  all  times.  These 
little  fowls  have  the  constitution  to  stand  very  cold 
weather,  but  dampness  is  their  almost  certain  destroyer. 
'^  From  the  time  Bantams  are  hatched  till  the  end  of  their 
natural  life  they  should  be  protected  from  wet  and  damp.  If 
this  is  done  and  they  are  properly  fed,  they  will  enjoy  perfect 
health  and  repay  you  for  all  the  attention  they  have  received. 
Young  Bantams,  when  hatched,  should  be  kept  within 
doors  on  a  dry  board  floor  with  the  mother  hen  for  about 
forty-eight  hours,  then  removed  into  dry  quarters  outside  and 
housed  in  a  properly  constructed  coop  with  board  floor  that 
should  be  strewn  with  hay  seed  or  chaff,  or  hay  cut  quite 
small.  For  my  own  use  I  have  constructed  a  coop  after  the 
st3de  of  one  made  by  Spratt's  Patent.  This  is  not  all  import- 
ant, for  any  well  constructed  coop  will  do  for  their  comfort,  if 
warm  and  dry.  We  advocate  very  strongly  the  use  of  coops 
with  board  floors;  at  the  same  time,  many  advocate  placing 
them  in  /\  coops  right  on  the  ground.  Having  used  both, 
we  cast  our  vote  in  favor  of  the  coop  with  board  floor  well  cov- 
ered with  drj'  lit- 
ter, believing  a 
greater  number  of 
just  as  healthy 
chicks  will  be 
raised  in  this  way 
in  all  kinds  of 
weather,  and  in  a 
wet  season,  like 
the  summer  of  1897, 
the  per  cent  is 
largely  in  favor  of 
the  dry  floors. 

For  adult  Ban- 
tams we  also  ad- 
vocate houses  with 
board  floors,  and  we  prefer  these  houses  to  be  set  at  least  ten 
inches  from  the  ground,  and  so  constructed  that  no  vermin  of 
any  kind  can  make  their  home  beneath  the  house.  The  illustra- 
tion of  our  favorite  style  of  coop  for  adult  Bantams  (See  Fig. 
1)  will  indicate  our  notion  as  to  same.  We  also  copy  one  from 
Spratt's  illustrations,  having  added  some  of  our  own  ideas  to 
it.  From  our  illustrations  many  forms  of  Bantam  houses  can 
be  constructed;  no  matter  how  rude  or  cheap  in  form,  just  so 
they  are  dry  and  furnish  protection  from  the  very  cold  weather. 
Do  not  think  for  a  moment  that  we  would  intimate  that  Ban- 
tams should  be  kept  in  warm  or  heated  quarters  during  cold 
weather.  They  are  quite  hardy  and  withstand  cold  weather 
wonderfully  well,  but  they  should  have  comfortable  houses  to 
thrive  and  do  their  best. 

For  perches  nothing  is  better  than  oval  strips  of  wood,  two 
and  one-half  to  three  inches  wide  on  the  Hat  side.  Some  say 
smaller  perches  are  best.  Try  both  and  see  which  your  fowls 
will  prefer.  Nest  boxes  and  other  furnishings  you  can  select, 
as  best  suits  your  fancy.  We  use  small  pine  boxes  and  find 
them  very  handy  for  removing  with  a  broody  hen  to  some 
quiet  corner  where  she  can  bring  out  her  brood  in  comfort. 

Many  of  the  finest  exhibition  Bantams  of  England  are  bred 
in  very  contracted  quarters.  We  have  seen  a  pen  of  five  Ban- 
tams housed  and  yarded  in  a  space  less  than  seven  feet  square 
for  a  period  of  four  months,  and  they  produced  a  fine  lot  of 


FIG.  1. — POULTRY  HOUSE  WITH  RUN 
UNDERNE.4.TH. 


healthy  chicks,  many  of  which  found  their  way  to  the  show 
pens  and  won  their  share  of  prizes.  Quite  a  number  of  the 
New  York  prizewinners  are  bred  in  very  small  city  lots,  where 
all  green  food  and  grit  of  all  kinds  must  be  furnished  them. 
The  secret  of  success  in  these  cases  is  the  great  care  bestowed 
upon  the  fowls.  The 
most  perfect  sanitary 
conditions  must  be 
observed,  and  cleanli- 
ness must  be  the  ab- 
solute rule  of  the  hour. 
To  occasionally  clean 
up  will  not  do.  If  kept 
in  these  confined, 
small  quarters,  they 
must  be  kept  as  thor- 
oughly clean  as  your 
own  house,  for  in  this  _ 
way  only  can  they  be 

successfully  raised  in  ^  .' 

^       ,     -^  Thisn 

confined  quarters. 

We  breed  our  finest  specimens  in  a  small  back  yard,  and 
use  for  housing  a  small  wooden  packing  box,  as  shown  in  Fig. 
2.  Their  run  is  about  eight  feet  square,  and  they  are  turned 
out  on  the  grass  plot  each  day  for  a  run.  The  two  hens  in  one 
of  these  runs  laid  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  eggs  in  four 
months,  producing  a  number  of  very  fine  chicks,  all  of  which 
were  kept  till  eight  weeks  old,  in  a  small  door  yard„  After 
this  age  we  sent  them  to  a  farm  to  shift  for  themselves. 

Bantams  should  be  sheltered  from  sun,  wind,  rain  and 
snow  by  day,  and  from  drafts  by  night.  Shade  of  some 
kind  should  be  provided  for  all  Bantams  intended  for  exhibi- 
tion, for  their  plumage  is  soon  injured  by  the  hot  rays  of  the 
sun.  White  turns  yellow  and  black  turns  brown  when  exposed 
for  days  to  the  hot  sunlight.  We  have  seen  the  careful 
breeder  spread  sheets  of  canvas  for  shade  when  deprived  of 
natural  shade,  for  his  fowls.  These  little  pointers  show  what 
care  the  expert  bestows  upon  his  prospective  prize  winners. 

FOOD  AND  FEEDING. 


MADE  OUT  OF  A  DRY  GOODS  BOX. 

es  an  excellent  home  for  a  few  fowls. 


must  be  well  fed,  properly  fed  and  not  overfed 
nor  underfed.  Do  not  starve  your  breeding  stock,  but  keep 
them  in  good  condition  and  feed  them  on  the  proper  amount 
of  egg-forming  food.  Always  give  them  the  best,  for  they  eat 
so  little  that  what 
they  do  eat  should  be 
fine  in  quality.  If  fed 
morning  and  evening 
during  the  breeding 
season  it  is  quite 
enough,  providing 
attention  is  paid  to 
quality  and  the  prop- 
er quantity. 

If  confined  in  runs, 
plenty  of  green  food  and  grit  must  be  given  them.  When  so 
confined,  a  meal  at  noon  adds  much  to  their  comfort  and  con- 
dition. For  green  food,  cut  grass,  clover, apples,  beets,  turnips, 
and  the  tops  of  almost  any  vegetable  are  good  for  them.  This 
green  food  should  be  given  at  noon. 

The  best  grain  for  Bantams  is  wheat,  rice,  oatmeal  and 
some  broken  corn.  When  young  it  is  best  to  cook  the  food 
for  them.     Boiled  rice,  mixed  with  corn  bread,  wheat  bread. 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


or  a  mixture  of  ground  oats,  corn  and  middlings  made  into  a 
cake  and  baked  is  verj'  good.  Feed  the  chicks  quite  often,  on 
small  amounts  each  time.  In  this  way  they  will  not  be  forced 
to  overgrowth.     After  weaning  time  a  small   feed  of  wheat 


Fig.  4.— For  Bantams    '4x36 
apartment  for  hen    drop 

twice  a  day  is  quite  enough  for  them  if  the}  ha\  e  their_libert\  , 
where  they  can  find  seeds  and  bugs  for  themselves. 

All  Bantams  should  have  some  kind  of  animal  food.  If 
confined  feed  them  a  limited  amount  of  ground  green  bone 
with  some  meat  in  it,  not  too  much,  and  cut  very  fine.  Cooked 
meat  of  all  kinds  is  good  for  them'and  there  is  nothing  better 
than  cooked  fish.  There>re]'quite  J  a 
number  of  prepared  animal  foods,  many 
of  them  very  good.  The  best  of  them 
is  Crissel  and  Liverine.  A  mixture  of 
Liverine,  oatmeal  and  middlings  cooked 
or  scalded  and  fed  warm  and  crumbling 
is  a  good  occasional  food.  Crissel  is 
excellent  for  laying  hens.  It  can  be 
fed  in  the  same  manner  and  is  a  fine 
egg-producing  food.  Grit  of  some  kind, 
ground  shell,  bone  and  charcoal  should 
always  be  provided  in  liberal  quantities. 
They  are  great  promoters  of  good  health. 
After^the"  breeding  season,  cut  down  the 
food  ration  of  your  old  birds,  only  feed 
them  as  you  do  the  young,  growing  stock ; 
but  when  the  cooler  weather  comes  treat 
them  as  you  do  yourself,  to  a  little  larger 
allowance.  One  of  the  most  important  factors  of 
plenty  of  pure,  fresh  water.  This  should  be  kept  in  some  good 
style  of  fountain,  protected  from  the  sun  in  hot  weather. 
These  fountains  should  be  kept  as  clean  as  your  own  cups  and 
saucers,  and  fresh  water  should  be  provided  at  least  once,  and 
when  very  warm,  not  less  than  twice  a  day.  The  hen  must 
quench  lier  thirst  and  also  consume  enough  water  to  furnish  a 
large  per  cent  of  water  in  the  eggs  she  lays.     The  better  the 


wheat.     Always   feed   them   the   kind   of  food   that   has   the 
tendenc3'  to  advance  the  features  most  desired. 
SIZE  AND  WEIGHT. 

We  advocate  that  all  Bantams  shall  weigh  about  one-fifth 
IS  much  as  the  standard  fowls  thej-  miniature;  if  less,  so  much 
the  better.  The  smaller  the  better,  providing  they  possess  all 
the  variety  characteristics.  We  have  seen  them  too  small  for 
Bantams.  This  is  quite  as  bad  as  too  large.  The  happy 
medium  of  size  combined  with  the  perfect  form  is  most  to  be 
des  red. 

MATING. 

From  three  to  five  hens  are  quite  enough  for  one  male. 
Grade  this  according  to  his  vigor  and  success  in  filling  the 
eggs.  Sebrights  and  Japanese  do  best  in  trios,  and  most  of  the 
other  males  do  better  with  two  or  three  females.  Mate  them 
early  so  they  may  become  acquainted  before  the  breeding 
season,  otherwise  their  habit  of  quarreling  when  strange  to 
one  another  may  give  you  many  infertile  eggs.  Do  not  hesi- 
tate to  inbreed  good,  healthy  stock,  but  do  not  make  it  a  rule 
to  mate  brother  and  sister  together.  This  is  the  most  unlikely 
mating  one  can  have.  Father  with  daughter,  or  son  with 
mother  will  bring  improvement;  also,  cousins  in  line  or  to 
ancestors,  but  do  not  look  for  marked  improvement  from 
brother  and  sister,  it  does  not  work  well  that  wav. 


U   I  —Grand  for -i^ 


BEST  TIME  FOR  HATCHING. 
Bantams  should  be  about  six  mouths  old  for  males,  and  a 
little  less  for  females  before  they  are  fully  ready  to  show  under 
the  most  favorable  circumstances.  We  have  won  in  strong 
competition  with  Bantam  males  five  months  old,  but  consid- 
ered the  specimen  rather  immature.  By  taking  this  as  a 
guide  you  can  hatch  any  time  from  .\priltill  August,  and  later 
if  prepared  to  care  for  late  chicks.  Late  hatched  Bantams  do 
well  if  properly  housed;    if  not,  they  drop  by  the  wayside  and 


-Built  of  rouEh  lu 

uher 

3x4  feet;    mc 

vable  open 

run; 

drop 

iret  or  cold 

irht 

;  ventilator  above  drop. 

Cooj 

be 

made  with 
possible 

d  floor.    Mak 

and  space 

r«e  a 

water  supply  and  the  food,  the  better  she  will  lay.  Here  are 
a  few  hints  on  feeding  young  chicks:  If  j-ou  want  bone,  like 
in  the  Game  Bantam,  feed  bone-forming  food;  if  a  short  leg 
and  plenty  of  feather,  like  the  Cochin  Bantams,  feed  rice  and 


CARE  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  BANTAMS. 

The  following  circular  came  to  hand  with  no  name  signed 
to  it,  but  we  consider  it  worthy  of  a  place  in  our  book: 

"May  and  June  are  the  best  months  to  hatch  Bantams. 
\pnl,  July  and  August  are  not  bad,  and  September  is  all  right 
if  -s  ou  have  an  extra  nice  place  to  keep  the  chicks  in  during 
nter. 

"Vou  can  set  the  eggs  under  Bantams  or  large  hens.  A 
large  hen  that  will  sit  on  her  own  eggs  without  breaking  them 
can  do  the  same  with  Bantam  eggs,  as  they  do  not  break  any 
easier  than  ordinary  eggs.  The  only  objection  to  using  large 
hens  as  mothers  is  that  they  are  apt  to  kill  a  great  many  chicks 
by  stepping  on  them. 

"In  the  care  of  the  chicks  the  most  important  thing  is  to 
keep  them  absolutely  free  from  lice.     Remember  the  lice  on 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


Bantams  are  the  same  size  as  those  that  infest  ordinary  chickens, 
therefore  the  Bantams  will  succumb  sooner  than  the  ordinary 
chicks.  I  use  the  utmost  precaution  against  lice,  but  if  I  find 
a  brood  is  not  doing  well  I  examine  them  carefully  for  lice.  If 
I  find  any  I  dust  them  with  insect  powder;  if  I  do  not  find  any 
I  dust  them  just  the  same.  It  takes  sharp  eyes  to  discover 
lice,  but  with  experience  you  will  be  able  to  tell  when  your 
chicks  are  lousy  by  their  general  appearance. 

FOOD  AND  WATER. 

"Keep  clean  water  before  }-our  chicks  all  the  time,  also 
plenty  of  grit,  and  for  the  first 
week  or  two  finely  broken  egg 
shells,  and  after  that  oyster 
shells.  Give  all  food  dry.  Bread 
crumbs  make  an  excellent  food 
for  the  first  two  weeks.  Oats, 
wheat  and  corn  are  my  principal 
standbys. 

"Oats  I  use  in  the  form  of 
oatmeal.  This  is  just  the  right 
size  for  the  first  few  days.  Then 
I  give  cracked  wheat,  and  as 
soon  as  they  will  eat  it,  finely 
cracked  corn.  By  the  end  of 
the  third  week  they  can  usually  eat  whole  wheat.  I  depend 
upon  these  three  grains  all  through  the  growth  of  the  chick, 
simply  using  the  different  forms  to  accommodate  the  size  of 
the  chick. 

"A  newly  hatched  Bantam  will  swallow  only  a  very  small 
particle.  Give  finely  chopped,  cooked  meat  twice  a  week. 
See  that  they  have  an  abundance  of  green  food  all  the  time, 
and  the  more  bugs  and  worms  the  better.  Vary  your  diet  as 
much  as  possible  by  using  waste  from  the  table,  but  be  sure  to 


feed  everything  dry.  Wet  or  even  moist  food  comes  next  to 
lice  on  the  list  of  chicken  destroyers.  Feed  five  or  six  times  a 
day  at  regular  intervals  for  the  first  week  or  two,  after  that 
gradually  lessen  the  number  of  feeds  until  b}'  the  time  they  are 
fully  feathered  two  or  three  times  a  day  will  be  found  quite 
sufficient. 

A  WRONG  IDEA. 
"There  is  a  common  idea  that  Bantam   chicks  must   be 
starved  to  keep  them  small.     If  j'ou  wish  even   a  moderate 
amount  of  success  in  raising  them  give  up  this  idea  at  once. 
I'ntil  they  are  fully  feathered  feed  them  just  as  if  you  expected 
to  make  roasters  of  them.  After 
they  are  feathered  you  may  let 
up  a  little,  but  keep  them  grow- 
ing, and  when  you  pick  one  up 
it  should  feel  plump  and  not  as 
if    its    breastbone    would     cut 
through  the  skin. 

"By  this  method  you  will 
undoubtedly  get  some  over- 
grown birds,  while  by  starving 
them  you  will  get  a  great  manj- 
worthless  and  mismarked  ones, 
and  the  best  you  will  get  will 
not  be  equal  to  the  best  obtained 
either  plumage,  shape  or  vigor.     Keep 


chicks,  6x8  feet,  making  two  apart 
house  about  100  growing  chicks. 


in  the  other  way, 
your  Bantams  small  by  selecting  the  smallest  to  breed  from, 
and  keep  them  healthy  by  good  care  and  enough  to  eat. 
Nothing  has  done  more  to  hurt  the  popularity  of  the  Bantam 
than  this  idea  that  it  must  be  starved  to  keep  it  down  to 
standard  size. 

"Keep  your  chickens  free  from  lice,  give  them  clean,  dry 
quarters,  dry  food  in  abundance,  and  3'ou  have  the  three  main 
props  in  raising  Bantams." 


CHAPTER  ll. 

THE  GAME    BANTAM. 


HE  most  popular  of  all  Bantam  fowls  is  the  Game  Bantam. 
No  variety  of  fowls  is  more  widely  known  than  the  Black 
Red  Game  Bantam,  and  we  must  conclude,  judging  from 
the  quality  we  find  at  some  of  our  exhibitions,  none  so 
little  understood.  How  often  we  see  them  of  the  same 
fashion  as  a  young  duckling,  short  of  leg,  long  and  plump 
of  body,  the  female  being  shaped  more  like  a  pigeon 
than  a  game  fowl,  proving  the  lack  of  knowledge  as  to  the 
requirements  of  a  true  Game  Bantam. 

First  we  will  say  a  few  words  as  to  their  early  ancestors. 
More  ancient  than  poultry  lore  is  the  game  fowl.  Of  my  own 
experience  I  can  say  that  a  personal  friend  who  visited  Pompeii 
saw  a  large  flagon  that  had  been  taken  from  the  ruins,  on  one 
side  of  which  was  engraved  a  game  cock,  on  the  other  a 
peafowl,  showing  that  fowls  of  this  kind  were  known  at  that 
early  day.  Early  writers  tell  us  of  Game  Bantams,  but  we 
have  only  seen  one  record  that  places  the  credit  of  their  origin. 
Mr.  Entwisle,  in  his  book  on  Bantams,  states  as  follows:  "We 
think  we  shall  be  quite  within  the  mark  in  saying  that  not  one 
of  those  we  have  placed  in  the  intermediate  class,  such  as 
Games,  Cuckoo  or  Scotch  Greys,  Frizzled,  Rumpless,  Japanese 
and  Buff  Pekin,  was  known  in  England  fifty  years  ago, 
certainly  not  sixty  years  ago."  To  Mr.  John  Crosland,  of 
Wakefield,  he  gives  the  credit  of  having  produced  the  earliest 
Game  Bantams.  In  the  few  lines  given  to  Bantams  by  Mou- 
bray  (1816)  he  states:  "There  has  been  lately  obtained  a 
variety  of  Bantams  extremely  small  and  as  smooth  legged  as  a 
game  fowl." 

Mr.  Hewitt,  in  writing  of  them  in  1852,  tells  of  a  pair  of 
Duckwing  Game  Bantams,  which  he  describes  as  a  beautiful 
pair.  At  the  same  time  he  mentions  Black  Breasted  Red 
Game  Bantams,  a  fac-simile  of  the  game  fowl,  but  not  exceed- 
ing three-quarters  of  a  pound  in  weight.  He  goes  further  and 
states  as  his  opinion  that  the  Game  Bantam,  properly  so  called, 
may  be  fairly  considered  as  occupying  a  distinct  place  in  the 
family.  He  does  not  give  the  credit  of  their  production  to 
any  one,  bnt  claims  for  them  the  right  of  belonging  to  a  distinct 
family. 

Mr.  Tegetmeier,  in  his  book  (1867),  in  writing  of  Game 
Bantams,  tells  of  a  Mr.  Monsey,  of  Norwich,  who  produced 
them  by  inbreeding  and  selecting,  also  by  crossing  them  on 
other  Bantams.  Neither  of  these  gentlemen  gives  the  credit  of 
their  origin  to  any  one  person.  We  simply  present  these 
records  without  comment  to  show  the  opinion  of  both  early 
and  modern  writers  as  to  their  origin. 

The  Game  Bantam,  of  whatever  variety,  should  conform 
to  the  one  standard  for  shape.  Never  be  content  with  an 
off-shaped  bird,  no  matter  how  good  the  color,  for  without  the 
true  Game  Bantam  form,  color  and  markings  go  for  naught. 
Never  hope  for  good  results  in  breeding  from  ill-shaped  birds 
with  poor  carriage,  for  your  reward  will  be  disappointment. 
The  main  features  are  good  style,  hard  plumage  (that  is,  short, 
small  and  close-fitting  to  the  body),  small  size  and  color. 
These,  in  the  order  named,  constitute  the  true  Game  Bantam. 
By  style  we  refer  to  all  terms  used  by  experts  and  others  not 
so  well  informed,  such  as  carriage,  symmetry,  station,  etc. 
The  general  style  includes  the  shape  of  the  bird  and  its  ability 
to  carry  itself  in  the  proper  Game  Bantam  manner,  and  when 
this  requirement  is  lacking  the  true  Game  Bantam  feature  is 
gone  and  the  bird  is  of  no  value  either  as  a  show  bird  or  pro- 
ducer of  same.    Much  improvement  can  be  made  in  some  birds 


by  training,  but  true  st\'le  cannot  be  trained  into  a  bird  that  is 
lacking  in  proper  form. 

The  bird  should  be  tall,  upright  and  bold;  the  Lead  long  and 
narrow;  the  beal;:  finely  formed,  long  and  tapering  and  slightly 
curved;  eyes  bright  and  clear,  and  face  bright  red,  except 
gipsy  face  in  Brown  Reds;  and  the  skin  of  the  face  very  thin 
and  close  fitting.  One  feature  of  great  importance  and  beauty 
is  a  thin,  clean  throat.  When  bred  so  fine  that  the  female 
scarcely  shows  any  wattles,  the  thin,  clean  throat  adds  much 
to  the  beauty  of  head  and  neck  in  both  males  and  females.  To 
show  how  long  ago  the  absence  of  wattles  was  bred  for,  we 
state  for  your  benefit,  that  the  Black  Sumatra  Game  in  perfec- 
tion scarcely  shows  any  wattles.  Our  standard  does  not  class 
them  as  Games,  but  they  are  of  that  same  nature  of  fowls. 

The  neck  should  be  long,  thin  and  tapering  from  bod}-  to 
head,  the  neck  hackle  short  and  close  fitting.  The  feathers 
of  the  hackle  should  not  come  together  in  front  and  they 
should  end  where  the  neck  and  back  join.  The  shoulders 
should  be  broad,  square  and  carried  forward,  and  the  neck 
should  join  the  back  and  body  between  the  shoulders,  the 
prominence  of  which  gives  the  appearance  of  the  neck  being 
set  into  the  body.  This  feature  is  more  prominent  in  the  male. 
The  back  is  short,  flat  and  tapering,  giving  the  body  almost 
the  shape  of  an  egg;  in  fact,  the  body  should  be  egg-shaped, 
and  the  wings  should  set  very  close  to  the  body  and  be  carried 
well  up  to  the  back.  The  end  of  the  wings  should  not  extend 
beyond  the  body,  nor  should  any  part  of  the  wing  drop  or  ex- 
tend over  the  back.  The  shorter  they  are  the  better,  and  the 
higher  the  better,  just  so  they  do  not  cover  the  back. 

The  tail  should  be  short,  small  and  close,  but  slightly  ele- 
vated. The  tails  of  both  male  and  female  should  be  formed 
much  alike,  the  male  having  a  few  short  narrow  sickle  feath- 
ers. What  is  called  a  "whip  tail"  is  most  desirable.  The 
breast  should  be  neat,  round  and  plump.  We  do  not  admire 
the  flat  breast  on  either  Games  or  Game  Bantams,  nor  do  we 
advocate  over-feeding  till  the  crop  becomes  extended,  which 
spoils  the  bird's  appearance.  They  should  be  fed  enough  to  fill 
out  their  breasts  to  their  proper  form,  and  not  so  underfed  as 
to  cause  the  shoulders  to  look  narrow  and  spoil  the  whole  ap- 
pearance. The  sides  and  wings  should  be  round,  not  flat.  In 
fact,  the  whole  formation  of  the  body  should  be  round  and 
tapering  towards  the  stern;  the  whole  body  coming  to  a  point, 
similar  to  the  small  end  of  an  egg. 

The  legs  and  feet  are  of  great  importance.  The  thighs 
should  be  long,  muscular  and  set  well  apart;  in  fact,  well  to 
the  outside  of  the  body.  They  should  taper  to  the  hock  joint, 
which  should  be  strong  at  the  juncture  with  the  shank,  which 
should  be  long,  clean  and  slender,  almost  round,  and  covered 
with  small,  close-fitting  scales  perfecth-  smooth  and  free  from 
imperfections  of  any  kind.  The  feet  and  toes  must  be  sound 
and  perfect  in  form,  the  toes  perfectly  straight,  well  spread 
and  of  good  length.  The  hind  toe  should  be  set  low^  and  flat 
on  the  ground,  and  should  be  perfectly  straight  out  behind, 
and  not  curved,  crooked  nor  carried  high.  When  the  hind 
toes  twist  or  turn  forward,  it  is  a  grave  fault,  and  a  bird  with 
this  weakness  should  neither  be  shown  nor  used  as  a  breeder, 
because  this  defect  disqualifies  for  all  uses. 

Size  is  a  most  important  feature  and  should  be  obtained  by 
proper  mating,  not  by  underfeeding,  for  underfed  birds  can 
neither  mature  good  bodies  nor  feathers.  Always  remember, 
style  and  size  come  largely  from  the  female  and,  color  from 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


he  male.  Never  use  au  overgrown  female  Bantam  to  produce 
small  stock,  nor  a  bad  colored  male  for  good  color.  Have  both 
as  near  the  proper  requirements  as  possible. 

The  female  should  in  all  the  above  features  conform  to  the 
male.  Her  shape  and  general  form  should  be  the  same,  with 
the  few  exceptions  of  tail,  comb  and  head,  but  always  of  a  more 
delicate  or  effeminate  character.  In  the  consideration  of  size, 
we  hold  it  is  just  as  bad  to  have  them  too  small  or  undersized 
as  to  have  them  oversized  unless  their  vigor  and  stamina  can 
be  retained.  When  too  small  their  ability  to  reproduce  is 
more  likely  to  be  dwarfed  and  their  constitutional  vigor 
impaired.  No  fowl  of  any  kind  is  valuable  when  these  facts 
combine  to  destroy  its  real  use.  The  proper  size  of  a  Game 
Bantam  is  to  be  just  as  small  as  possible  and  yet  retain  all  the 
characteristics  of  the  game  fowl.  We  have  seen  female  Game 
Bantams  that  weighed  under  ten  ounces.  They  are  simply  a 
novelty  in  the  fowl  line  and  should  be  classed 
with  cage  birds,  for  they  are  of  little  useful 
value.  We  think  sixteen  ounces  is,  under  all 
conditions,  about  as  small  as  a  mature  male 
bird  has  been  bred  and  at  the  same  time  main- 
tained all  the  features  of  a  true  Game  Bantam, 
having  proper  vigor  and  endurance. 

We  rec9gnize  in  our  American  Standard 
the  following  varieties:  Black  Breasted  Red, 
Brown  Red,  Golden  Duckwing,  Silver  Duck- 
wing,  Red  Pyle,  Birchen,  White  and  Black. 
In  addition  to  these  there  are  the  Malay, 
.  Indian  Game  and  Aseel  Bantams.  The  Ban- 
tams allowed  by  our  standard  must  conform 
in  shape  to  the  description  given  above.  As  to 
color  and  markings,  all  must  be  treated  sepa- 
rately. In  doing  this  we  shall  present  the 
views  of  the  best  breeders  of  both  this  country 
and  England. 

BLACK  BREASTED  RED  GAME 
BANTAMS. 
The  face,  top  of  head  when  trimmed,  and 
throat  should  be  a  rich  healthy  red  on  the 
cock  bird;  beak,  dark  horn  color  preferred; 
eyes  red;  head,  neck,  hackle  and  saddle  should 
all  be  of  one  shade  whether  orange  or  light 
red.  We  prefer  what  is  called  an  orange, 
bright  and  pure  in  color  and  perfectly 
clear  from  any  sign  of  stripe  or  markings.  Of  whatever  color, 
it  should  be  pure  and  true.  A  light  red  shading  into  orange 
is  a  bad  defect  in  color  for  the  show  pen  (but  for  pullet  breed- 
ing, most  desirable).  The  back  should  be  a  clear,  pure  red 
of  a  slightly  darker  shade  than  the  neck.  No  better  descrip- 
tion can  be  given  for  the  wing  coloring  than  is  found  in  the 
Standard  of  Perfection,  which  should  be  studied  by  all  who 
hope  to  breed  these  fowls  to  perfection.  The  shoulder  should 
be  black  up  to  the  meeting  of  the  back  coloring  which  extends 
down  under  the  wings;  wing  fronts,  black;  wing  bow,  bright 
red,  or  crimson  as  it  is  called  in  England.  The  wing  coverts 
should  form  a  glossy  black  bar  across  the  wing;  primaries 
black,  the  outer  web  of  the  lower  feathers  bay  in  color;  part 
of  the  outer  web  of  secondaries  ba}';  balance  of  feathers  black. 
Breast  up  to  throat,  body,  stern,  thighs,  and  tail  black;  sickles 
and  tail  coverts,  lustrous  black;  shanks  and  feet,  willow 
colored,  of  a  greenish  rather  than  a  yellowish  shade,  and  very 
smooth  and  free  from  all  defects. 

The  female  to  be  a  perfect  show  color  according  to  the 
fashion  of  the  day,  must  show  a  shade  of  color  not  strictly  as 
described  in  our  present  standard.  We  say  the  ground  color 
should  be  golden  brown  penciled  with  grayish  brown;  the 
English  say,  one  even  shade  of  light  brownish  drab  finely 
penciled  with  black.     The  English  fashion  of  color  is  winning 


favor  with  our  best  judges.  Our  description  is  not  a  perfect 
description  of  the  color  as  accepted  by  experts.  ■  The  comb  of 
the  female  should  be  small,  neat  and  perfectly  upright,  in  color 
red;  wattles  and  ear-lobes  very  small,  if  almost  none  is  pre- 
ceptiBle,  so  much  the  better,  but  they  must  not  be  trimmed; 
red  in  color.  The  color  of  the  head  should  conform  to  body 
color.  If  the  body  color  is  dark  the  head  may  be  of  a  darkish 
shade;  but  one  even  color  of  head  and  neck  is  preferable  and 
that  should  be  golden  with  a  narrow  black  stripe  through  the 
middle  of  the  feather.  The  beak  should  be  a  dark  horn  color. 
Back,  wing-bows  and  coverts  should  be  one  even  shade  of 
brown,  finely  penciled  with  lighter  brown;  breast,  light  sal- 
mon, shading  into  lighter  color  toward  the  thighs;  primaries, 
black  or  darkish  brown;  tail,  black  or  dark  brown,  the  two  up- 
per feathers  powdered  with  the  same  color  as  back;  thighs, 
light  browm,  and  shanks  willow.     The  above  would  describe  a 


.\NTAMS. 


standard  female  as  per  our  standard.  We  should  prefer  a  fe- 
male of  a  little  different  shading  (for  we  think  it  more  like  the 
bird  that  wins  the  admiration  of  both  judge  and  expert),  as 
follows: 

The  general  body  color  very  even  and  regular  in  markings, 
of  a  color  rather  on  a  golden  brown  shade,  finely  penciled 
with  dark  brown  or  black;  throat,  light  salmon;  breast,  a 
reddish  salmon,  shading  into  an  ashy  color  under  the  legs. 
The  whole  color  should  be  very  even,  pure  and  free  from  any 
dark  or  blotchy  shadings.  This  we  consider  a  beautiful  com- 
bination for  a  show  bird.  Such  e  bird  is  most  valuable  as  a 
breeder. 

To  breed  show  birds  of  high  quality  is  an  art  that  can  only 
be  learned  by  experience.  A  few  general  points  can  be  told, 
and  when  followed,  success  may  be  the  result;  but  the  pro- 
duction of  high-class  specimens  is  the  result  of  study  and 
patience.  For  the  production  of  males,  a  perfect  show  male 
mated  to  Wheatons,  or  females  showing  a  reddish  cast  on  the 
wings,  or  females  from  a  Wheaton  mated  to  au  exhibition 
male,  is  the  best  for  good  results.  The  best  of  all  is  regularly 
bred  females  from  Wheaton  hens  by  the  best  exhibition  males. 
If  once  you  can  establish  such  blood  lines  of  your  own,  you 
can  hope  for  males  of  the  highest  order,  but  till  then  look 
for  only  a  small  percent  of  high-class  males. 


12 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


VoT  feiiuiles,  the  best  rc-sults  come  from  males  of  one  even 
color  of  red  all  over.  If  the  hackle  and  saddle  shade  into 
orange,  so  much  the  better.  Such  males,  with  the  truest 
colored  females,  produce  the  best  pullets. 

BROWN  RED  GAME  BANTAMS. 
The  face,  comb,  wattles  and  ear-lobes  of  both  male  and 
female  should  be  dark  purple.  The  male  should  be  colored  aj 
follows;  The 
portions  of  the 
body  that  are 
red  in  the  Black 
Red  male 
should  be 
lemon  colored 
in  the  Brown 
Red  male.  All 
other  portions 
should  be  black, 


-BRO^\^    RFD   C,\lMl!,   B\NT\MS 


lacing  of  lemon 
on  the  breast 
feathers.  The 
shaft  of  the 
feathers  that 
are  laced  should 
be  of  a  pale 
lemon  color, 
shanks  and  feet 
quite  dark  in 
color.  Head 
and  neck  feath- 
ers should  have 
a  narrow  stripe 
of  black.  All 
lemon  colored 
feathers  should 
have  a  light 
colored  shaft,  and  saddle  should  be  striped  with  black,  same 
as  neck  feathers. 

The  female  should  have  a  golden  or  lemon  color  for  head, 
running  a  little  lighter  for  neck,  which  should  be  penciled 
with  a  narrow  stripe  of  black  down  the  middle  of  each  feather; 
the  balance  of  the  plumage  should  be  a  lustrous  black,  the 
breast  feathers  laced  with  lemon.  All  feathers  showing  the 
lemon  lacing  should  be  laced  with  the  same  shade  as  the  neck 
feathers.  Whatever  shade  the  neck  is,  the  breast  lacing 
should  be  the  same,  and  each  feather  on  breast  of  both  male 
and  female  should  be  evenly  laced  all  round  with  a  narrow 
edge  of  the  same  shade  as  neck  color.  The  legs  and  feet  of 
both  male  and  female  should  be  quite  dark  in  color.  If  black 
legs  can  be  had  they  are  by  far  the  best. 

Good  colored  Brown  Reds  bred  together  should  produce 
l)oth  males  and  females  of  the  proper  color.  To  keep  the 
color  true  the  highest  grade  males  should  be  bred  to  the  most 
perfect  females,  and  to  regain  any  lost  color  in  males  breed 
from  females  that  show  good  lacing  on  back  and  wing  bows. 
Never  discard  a  female  that  is  well  laced  on  back  and  wings, 
for  she  is  of  great  value  to  improve  the  color  of  males.  Cock- 
erels that  show  too  light  color  on  back  often  make  the  best 
cock  birds,  having  a  tendency  to  grow  darker  each  year.  A 
true  colored  young  bird  is  often  too  dark  as  a  two-year-old. 
Some  use  Golden  Duckwing  blood  to  improve  the  color,  but  it 
is  far  better  to  use  females  as  above  mentioned,  and  thus  save 
much  trouble  for  v'ears  to  come. 

BIRCHEN  GAME  BANTAMS. 
Birchen  Games  are  the  same  in  markings  as  the  Brown 
Reds,  only  their  markings  are  silvery  white.     For  this  reason 
we  advance  the  opinion  that  the  coloring  of  the  Brown  Reds 


should  be  more  of  a  golden  color;  one  after  the  Golden  Duck- 
wing,  the  other  after  the  Silver;  believing  the  lemon,  or  straw 
color,  in  fact,  too  faded  a  color  to  breed  true  and  sustain  itself 
as  it  should.  "We  present  below  a  description  of  this  variety 
from  the  pen  of  Mr.  S.  Walker  Anderson  (Hon.  Sec,  pro  tem 
of  the  United  Game  Club),  of  Scrooby,  Bawtry,  England,  one 
of  the  most  successful  fanciers  of  the  day: 

"This  new  and  pretty  variety  of  Bantams  has  only  re- 
cently come  to  the  front.  1896  was  the  first  year  that  classes 
for  it  were  provided  at  the  Crystal  Palace,  although  they  have 
been  shown  successfully  in  the  variety  classes.  As  yet  we 
have  no  recognized  standard.  I  have  drawn  up  a  standard 
giving  the  most  points  for  that  which  every  breeder  will 
acknowledge  to  be  the  most  difScult  to  obtain.  The  Birchen, 
as  most  breeders  know,  is  a  made  breed,  obtained  by  crossing 
a  Duckwing  with  a  Brown  Red.  Vou  obtain  a  Birchen  in  the 
first  cross,  and  many  times  might  breed  a  specimen  equal  to 
many  years'  careful  breeding  with  Birchen  and  Birchen. 
HOW  TO  SELECT  BIRDS  FOR  FIRST  CROSS. 

"You  must  select  a  Silver  Duckwing  cock  with  heavily 
ticked  breast  and  streaky  hackle,  good  black  thighs  and  fluff; 
small  in  tail;  very  free  from  shaftiness  or  lacing.  Of  course  it 
is  understood  that  the  birds  must  be  oi  good  shape,  long  head 
with  plenty  of  reach.  The  Brown  Red  hen  must  have  a  good 
black  face  and  eye,  evenly  laced  breast,  and  light  lemon 
hackle.  And  be  careful  that  she  has  a  clear  cap.  Body  should 
be  by  no  means  shafty.  From  your  first  season's  result  select 
those  nearer  to  the  Birchen  standard  for  next  year's  breeding 
stock,  and  in  no  case,  however  good,  breed  from  a  cock  or  hen 
that  has  a  red  face  and  light  eye. 

HOW  TO  SELECT  BIRDS  FOR  SHOW  AND  STUD. 

"You  must  first  have  a  good  shaped  cock  with  plenty  of 


DKRSON  S  BIRCHEN  GAMES. 


reach  and  stvle,  long  head  and  neck;  face  and  eye  as  dark  as 
possible;  the  beak,  legs  and  toe  nails  black  or  very  dark  slate 
color;  the  cap,  neck  and  saddle  hackle  silvery  white  (not 
creamy),  each  feather  having  a  narrow  black  center.  The 
breast,  which  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  parts  of  the  bird, 
should  be  black,  each  feather  having  a  narrow  margin  of  white 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


completely  round  it  and  the  shaft  of  the  feather  faint  white.  standard  is  golden,  with  them  orange  or  yellow.  They 
I  myself  have  a  strong  objection  to  a  heavily  laced  bird.  The  prefer  a  creamy  white  hackle  with  orange  back  and  wing- 
thigh  and  fluff  should  be  black.  This  point  I  consider  most  bow.  We  call  for  a  straw  colored  hackle  and  golden  back 
difficult  to  obtain  as  most  cocks  are  laced  both  on  the  thighs      and   wing-bow   with    saddle    same  color  as   hackle,   both   of 

which  must  be  free  from  any  penciling 
or  dark  stripes.  Of  whatever  color,  it 
must  be  clear  and  pure,  and  free  from 
any  discoloration.  The  general  coloring 
of  the  bird  is  the  same  as  to  markings  as 
the  Black  Red.  The  wing  bay  of  a 
Duckwing  is  of  great  importance.  This 
is  a  weak  point  in  most  of  them  and 
should  be  watched  with  care  in  breed- 
ing. The  shanks  of  both  male  and 
female,  to  look  the  best,  should  be  a 
light  willow. 

The  female  iu  her  make  up  follows 
the  Black  Red,  having  the  salmon  breast. 
Her  back  and  wings  are  a  slate  gray; 
hackle  silvery  gray  with  a  narrow  stripe; 
body  and  stern  light  ashy  gray,  tail  black 
with  top  feathers  powdered  with  gray. 
Our  standard  omits  the  penciling  in 
plumage  of  Duckwing  females,  but  they 
should  be  penciled  on  back  and  wings, 
very  fine  and  evenly,  with  black  or  dark 
brownT  Thehead'coloring  of  the^Duck- 


FIG.  11. — BIRCHEN   G.A.ME    BANT.\MS. 

and  fluff.  The  shoulder  points  should  be  black,  saddle  and 
beak  a  silvery  white  with  a  black  center;  bows  and  wings  black; 
tail  black,  small  and  fine  in  sickle  and  free  from  shaftiness  or 
lacing.  The  hen  should  have  a  good  black  face  and  eye.  Cap 
and  neck  hackle  are  the  same  as  male  bird,  also  the  breast; 
the  rest  of  the  body  a  glossy  black.  Legs,  feet  and  toe  nails 
same  as  the  cock. 

"General  remarks:  To  keep  Birchens  in  show  form  you 
must  not  expose  them  to' the  sun;  if  you  do  they  will  turn  a 
straw  color.  I  should  advise  keeping  them  in  covered  runs 
during  the  show  season.  Always  destroy  anj'  brown-red 
chickens  that  are  Birchen  bred,  if  not  you  will  never  obtain  a 
pure  strain. 

SUGGESTED  STANDARD. 


Vood  liead  and  neck.  . . . 

Eye  and  face 

Shape  and  style. 

Legs  and  feet 

Condition  

Hardness  of  featli 

Tail 

Hreast  lacing 

Clear  thighs...     . 
Soundness  of  colo 


ud  head  and  neck 6 

Eve  and  face lU 

.Shape  and  style 10 

Legs  and  leet S 

Condition Ill 

Hardness  of  leather 8 


DUCKWING  BANTAMS. 
Duckwings  are  of  most  beautiful  color  wlicu  in  perfec- 
tion. The  rich  coloring  of  neck,  back  and  wings  forms  a 
beautiful  contrast  to  the  bright,  glossy  black  body  of  the 
males.  Our  standard  for  these  fowls  differs  somewhat  from 
the  English  in  the  point  of  describing  color.  In  Golden 
Duckwings,  head  and  hackle  with  us  are  straw  color;  the  Kn- 
glish   standard   calls    for  creamy   white.      The   back  in   our 


\.:MK  B.\NT.\M  COCK. 


wing  should  be  very  clear  and  pure,  and  the  hackle  quite  free 
from  any  off  shading. 

The  Silver  Duckwing  is  a  counterpart  of  the  Golden,  ex- 
cept in  color.  The  male  is  a  silvery  white  in  hackle,  back, 
saddle  and  wings,  and  the  female  is  of  a  much  lighter  shade 
of  gray,  with   a   light  salmon   breast.      A  perfect  Duckwing 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


female  is  the  most  beauti  f ul  of  all  Game  Bantam  females  when 
of  perfect  form  -md  color  No  Game  Bantam  is  harder  to  pro- 
luce  in  perfection 
than  the  Duck- 
wmg.  They  must 
be  crossed  with 
the  Black  Reds  to 
keep  up  the  color  of 
the  males,  and  this 
must  be  done  in  an 
understanding  way 
or  bad  results  will 
follow.  Do  not  se- 
lect them  as  a 
breed  easy  to  han- 
dle, for  they  are  a 
work  of  art  from 
the  hand  of  an 
artist  who  has  well 
m  hand  the  blood 
lines  of  his  differ- 
ent matings.  Do 
not  be  surprised  if 
the  progeny  of  a 
well  selected  pen 
of  Duckwiugs  dis- 
appoint you.  It  is 
quite  essential  to 
know  their  breed- 
ing to  handle  them 
for  best  results. 


FIG.  IS.— PAIR  OF  DUCKWING  BANTAMS. 


females  quite  dark  on  breast  and  with  red  markings  on  wings. 
These  birds  show  the  strength  of  color  as  ^derived  from  the 
Black  Red  cross,  and  will  improve  color  without  so  much 
injury  to  the  leg  color.  But  to  produce  and  maintain  a 
strain  of  high-class  Pyles  one  must  certainly  feed  into  their 
veins  some  Black  Red  blood.  This  should  come  from  a  male 
with  yellow  legs  and  as  pure  and  even  a  color  as  possible. 
Many  rules  for  breeding  these  birds  are  given,  but  the  safest 
and  surest  way  is  to  use  the  most  perfect  males  of  the  deepest 
red  shade,  with  females  having  too  much  color  for  your  cock- 
erels, and  with  almost  white  females  for  j'Our  pullets.  This 
will  secure  a  general  average  of  qualit}-  and  many  good  birds 
of  both  sexes.  When  the  color  fails,  introduce  new  blood  as 
above  mentioned  and  use  the  product  of  the  cross  to  improve 
color. 

WHITE  AND  BLACK. 
Some  ver3'  fine  White  Game  Bantams  with  dark  legs, 
sports  from  Brown  Reds  and  Birchens,  make  their  appearance. 
If  these  were  bred  to  the  White  Game  Bantams  with  yellow 
beaks  and  legs,  a  fine  line  of  well  stationed  birds  could  be  pro- 
duced. The  White  Game  should  be  pure  white  in  color,  with 
yellow  legs  and  beak.  They  originalh'  came  from  the  Brown 
Red  Bantams,  as  did  the  Black  Games;  both  have  the  same 
common  ancestry.  The  Blacks  should  be  pure,  lustrous 
black,  with  black  legs  and  dark  purple  face,  beak  dark  horn 
or  black,  eyes  black  or  dark  brown.  These  two  varieties  could 
be  made  most  attractive  if  attention  were  paid  to  them. 


RED  PYLE   BANTAMS. 
The  Pyle  Game  Bantam  cock,  when  bred  to  the  true  type 
of  form  and  color,  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  of  all  Game 
Bantam  males,  and  many  assert  he  is  the  most  beautiful.      He 
is  red  and  white,  as  the  Black  Red  is  red  and  black.     If  the 
red  is  of  a  bright  crim- 
son, and  the  white  a 
pure,  clear  white,  the 
combination   is    most 
attractive.  Yellow  legs 
and    beak     are    most 
essential  to  a  perfect 
make-up.     Bad  or  off- 
coloring  of  an)'  kind 
is  quite  objectionable, 
and  while  dark  mark- 
ings are  not  a  disqual- 
ification they   detract 
from  the  beauty  of  the 
bird. 

The  female  should 
be  pure  white,  with  a 
golden  hackle  cen- 
tered with  white,  and 
a  salmon  throat  and 
breast,  the  color  shad- 
ing into  white  on 
thighs  and  belly;  the 
purer  and  clearer  these 
colors,  the  better.  The 
breast  color  should 
not  be  of  a  reddish 
brown,  but  salmon 
of  a  red  shade  of 
color.  The  tendency  of  the  female  is  to  run  light  in  color  when 
produced  from  Pyle  matings.  This  can  be  improved  in  many 
ways,  but  the  better  way  for  general  purposes  is  to  breed  from 


OTHER  VARIETIES. 

THE  MALAY  BANTAM 
Is  a  perfect  Malaj-  in  form  and  color,  almost  as  small  as  Game 
Bantams  and  of  the  following  colors,  White,  Pyle,  Black  Red 


FIG.  14. — RED  PYLK  GAMK  BANT..\ 


and  Pheasant.  Having  described  the  other  colors  for  regular 
Game  Bantams,  it  is  only  necessary  to  tell  of  the  Pheasant 
color:  Comb,  face,  throat,  ear-lobes  and  wattles,  red;  eyes 
pearl  or  yellow;  beak  yellow  or  horn  color;  head  and  hackle 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL 


15 


black;  beak  and  saddle  mixed  dark  maroon  and  black;  wing- 
bows  dark  maroon;  secondaries,  outer  web  bay,  inner  web 
black;  tail  glossy  black;  balance  of  plumage  black;  legs  and 


FIG.  16. 


NT  A  MS. 


feet  yellow.  The  female  is  just  like  an  Indian  Game  female 
of  high  quality  that  has  double  lacing.  Single  lacing  is  admis- 
sible, but  the  other  is  preferred. 

ASEEL  BANTAMS 
Are  of  all  colors,  such  as  White,  Black,  Black  Red,  Gray  and 
Spangled.  They  are  fashioned  very  much  after  the  Malay 
type.  Their  necks  are  strong  and  muscular;  legs  short;  plum- 
age hard  and  short;  thighs  very  strong  and  rather  scantily 
feathered.  Male  weighs  about  two  pounds.  The  female  should 
resemble  the  male.  Ear-lobes  and  wattles  on  both  should  be 
very  small;  back  quite  straight;   carriage  upright. 

INDIAN  GAME  BANTAMS 
Are  just  like  the  Indian  Games,  Laced  and  White. 

THE  PYLE  WHEATON  HEN 
Has  a  very  bright  eye  and  a  golden  hackle;  breast  pale  fawn 
at  times  almost  cream  colored;  thighs  and  upper  part  of  body 
light  buff  or  lemon  color;  back  and  wings  the  color  of  wheat; 
primaries  white;  secondaries,  outer  web  wheaton,  inner  web 
white;  tail  white,  upper  feathers  edged  with  wheaton  color; 
legs  and  feet  are  often  light  willow,  but  yellow  is  preferred. 

THE  DUCKWING  WHEATON  HEN 
Differs  from  the  above  as  follows:     Hackle  and  head  color  is 
white,  or  white  slightly  striped  with  black;  breast  light  fawn; 
back  and  wings  pale  cinnamon;  primaries  black;  tail  and  legs 
same  as  a  Red  Wheaton. 

RED  WHEATON  HENS 
Have  a  red  face,  red  ear-lobes  and  wattles,  horn  colored  beak, 
golden  hackle,  fawn  or  cream  colored  breast,  light  buff  thighs 
and  upper  part  of  body;  back  and  wings  pale  cinnamon  or 
wheat  color.  From  this  they  get  their  name.  Primaries  black; 
secondaries,  outer  web  wheaton,  inner  web  black;  tail  black, 
upper  feathers  produced  with  wheaton  color;  legs  and  feet 
willow  color. 


BLACK  BREASTED  RED  GAME  BANTAMS. 
The  following  notes  from  Mr.  B.  C.  Thornton,  of  South 
Vineland,  New  Jersey,  will  be  of  interest  to  all,  coming  as  they 
do  from  one  who  has  ability  in  handling 
Game  Bantams.  He  writes:  "In  mating 
Black  Breasted  Red  Game  Bantams  for  the 
production  of  exhibition  specimens  it  is 
best  to  use  double  matings,  one  for  cockerel 
breedings  the  other  for  pullet  breeding. 

"For  cockerel  breeding  one  should  have 
a  bright  colored  male  bird,  bright  red  or 
light  orange  hackle  to  top  of  head;  one 
shade  of  color  from  top  of  head  to  end  of 
hackle.  Same  color  for  saddle  hackle, 
deeper  color  on  back  and  wing,  good  solid 
glossy  black  breast,  and  good  color  on  wing 
bay. 

"The  female  should  be  a  bright,  light 
partridge  color  on  back.  A  trifle  of  soft, 
ruddy  color  on  wing  is  no  objection,  but  not 
bricky  red.  She  should  have  a  light 
salmon  breast,  a  bright  lemon  hackle,  free 
or  nearly  so,  of  striping. 

"For  pullet  breeding  use  a  male  of  same 
color  as  for  breeding  males,  provided  you 
have  very  sound  colored  females  perfectly 
clear  of  the  slightest  ruddy  cast  on  side  of 
w  lug.  This  mating  will  produce  the  bright 
colored  females  so  much  admired  in  this 
country,  but  somewhat  lighter  in  color  than 
IS  fancied  in  England.  If  possible,  it  would 
be  best  to  secure  a  strain  of  birds  noted  for 
breeding  each  sex  and  mate  them  up  ac- 
cordingly. 
RED  PYLE  GAME  BANTAMS 
"Are  the  most  beautiful  in  color  of  all  Game  Bantams  when 


^*^it5^ 


FIG.   17. — BI.\(,K  RPIi  Ii\\'r\JI  XIALF. 
true  to  color.     Not  more  than  thirty  to  forty  per  cent  of  sound 
colored  birds  are  generally  obtained  from  the  best  matings. 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


The  rich  color  must  be  kept  up  with  a  cross  of  Black  Breasted 
Red  t>lood,  and  that  is  very  apt  to  bring  smoky  white  or  yellow 
where  there  should  1).  clear  white,  and  it  takes  a  long  time 
to  breed  it  out.  My 
plan  would  be  to 
breed  two  yards  of 
these  also,  as,  in 
fact  -v  ou  will  have 
to  do  with  all  varie- 
ties of  Game  Ban- 
tams to  get  a  large 
per  cent  of  really 
high  class  exhibi- 
tion cockerels  and 
pullets. 

In  mating  for 
cockerel  breeding 
I  should  use  a  good , 
^ound  colored  male 
bird  with  good, 
sound  colored 
wings,  rich  crim- 
son on  back  and  wing  coverts  or  wing-bow,  and  good  color  in 
wing  bay  or  what  is  known  as  the  diamond;  white  breast  clear 
of  lacing,  good  white  on  wing  butts  aud  wing  bar,  showing  the 
markings  on  wing  very  distinctly. 

"Females  for  this  mating  should  have  a  nice  salmon 
Ijreast,  fine  golden  hackle  (a  trifle  rosj-  on  wing  will  not  hurt), 
the  balance  of  bird  a  good  white,  not  smoky. 

"In  breeding  for  pullets  the  cock  bird  need  not  be  so  rich 
in  color,  but  the  wing  bay  or  flight  coverts  should  be  deep  bay 
color,  and  all  the  white  should  be  as  clear  white  as  obtainable. 
The  females  should  have  good  salmon  breasts,  nice  lemon  or 
straw  colored  hackles,  and  be  perfectly  clear  white,  free  from 
yellow,  smoky  or  stone  color  on  back,  wings  and  tail. 


\-viE  BAM  \M  H^N 


BROWN!RED  GAME  BANTAMS 
"Are  fast  gaining  ground  with  American  fanciers,  aud  some 
of  the  best  from  the  other  side  are  being  transferred  to  the 
yards  of  American  Game  Bantam  breeders.  The  fashionable 
color  of  to-day  in  the  male  bird  is  the  bright  lemon  hackle 
and  saddle,  and  as  near  to  that  color  as  possible  on  back  and 
wing-bow  ffine,  narrow  lacing  i^n  breast,  coming  well  down  to 
the  thigh;  body  color  and  tailhard,  glossy  black. 

"The  female,  in  body^r.nd  tail  should^be  short,' hard- 
feathered,  gloss}'  black  in  color,  narrow,  fine  lacing  of  lemon 
on  breast;  hackle  feathers  black,  deeply  laced  with  lemon. 

'  In  breeding  for  males  I  would^  use  a  male^of  the  above 
description  with  good,  hard-feathered  female;  if  slightly  laced 
on  back  it  is  no  objection.  They  should  be  well  laced  on 
breast. 

"For  pullet  breeding  I  would  use  onh-  sound  colored 
females,  with  lustrous  black  body  color,  no  lacing  except  on 
breast.  A  slightlv  darker  male  than  above  described  would  be 
better  for  pullet  breeding. 

GOLDEN  DUCKWING  GAME  BANTAMS 
"Originally  were  the  result  of  breeding  a  Black  Breasted  Red 
cock  to  Silver  Duckwing  females.  They  are  now  bred  as  a 
distinct  strain  and  reproduce  very  true  to  name  and  color.  A 
very  bright  "colored  Black^Breasted  Red  male  is  sometimes 
used  to  secure  good  color  in  cockerels!  Females  from  this 
cross  are  generally  Black  Breasted  Red  in  color,  and  are  only 
valuable  when  mated  to  true  colored  Duckwing  males  to  improve 
the  color. 

SILVER  IDUCKWINGIGAME  BANTAMS 
"Were  the  old-time'_  birds. \They  are  bredj  extensively  in 
America,  but  little  in  England.  They  are  really  a  handsome 
bird  when  of  a  pure  silvery  white;  much  more  beautiful  than 
the  Golden.  No  Game  Bantam  is  more  beautiful  than  a  fine 
Silver  Duckwing,  and  a  female  of  this  variety  is  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  Game  Bantams." 


CHAPTER    III. 


THE  DIFFERENT  VARIETIES. 


UR  present  Standard  recognizes  fourteen  varieties  of 
Bantams  other  than  frame.  The  English  recognize  some 
tliirt)-  odd  varieties,  including  their  many  colors.  We 
shall  tell  you  all  we  can  of  these  many  kinds  of  Ban- 
tams, gleaning  our  information  from  English  writers  as 
to  those  we  do  not  recognize  in  this  country. 

Our  standard  groups  the  Bantams  other  than  Game, 
as  follows:      ,Sebrights,   Rose  Combed,   Booted,  Cochin, 
Japanese  and  Polish.     We  shall  follow  this  order  and  continue 
the  same  by  adding  the  many  others  not  so  well  known. 

Bantams  wcrre  made,  or  reduced  from  the  larger  standard 
liirds  of  the  same  variety  in  many  cases,  but  the  original  or 
early  bantams  came  to  us,  whence,  no  one  can  tell.  Some  allot 
to  India  the  credit  of  being  the  home  of  the  first  or  original 


Bantams.  Some  also  give  the  jungle  fowl  the  credit  of  being 
the  common  ancestor  of  all  of  our  fowls.  Records  show  that 
poultry  in  ICgypt  was  quite  a  feature  ages  before  man  began  to 
record  history.  So  great  was  the  interest  in  those  early  days 
that  Aristotle  considered  it  of  quite  "enough  importance  to  tell 
of  their  mode  of  handling  the  artificial  hatching  of  long  years 
prior  to  his  time.  One  could  not  imagine  that  much  progress 
could  have  been  made  prior  to  this  early  day,  and  since  his 
day  the  work  could  not  have  been  in  progress  without  the 
world  kuowing  of  it.  Others  would  give  to  Java  the  honor  of 
sending  to  us  the  little  Bantam,  while  others  claim  them  as  a 
product  of  crosses  made  from  the  Bankiva  fowls  of  Java.  This 
latter,  wheu  used  as  an  attempted  cross  some  sixty  years  ago, 
simply  killed  all  other  fowls  placed  with  them. 


CHAPTER  lY. 


SEBRIGHT  BANTAMS. 


Their  Early    Advent    Produced 


Quite    an    Interest    in    Their    Kind- 
With  the   Present. 


-Their    Past    Qualities    Compared 


E  hardl}'  think  Sir  John  contemplated  the  delight  his 
production  of  Sebright  Bantams  would  bring  to  the 
fanciers  of  the  present  time.  No  fowls  are  better  known 
or  more  admired  than  the  Sebright  Bantam,  and  but 
few  less  understood.  That  most  charming  feature,  clear, 
well-defined  lacing,  is  so  poorly  understood  or  little 
appreciated  by  many,  that  it  often  makes  one  stop  and 
wonder  at  the  decision  of  experts  who  place  the  awards  on 
them.  The  so-called  Sebright  of  two  pounds  weight  should 
be  placed  on  the  spit  to  delight  the  palate  of  an  epicure,  but 
never  in  the  show  pen  or  breeding  yard  as  a  repi  esentative  of 
his  kind.  A  good  Sebright  male  should  never 
go  over  twenty-four  ounces,  and  a  female  not 
over  twenty  ounces,  whether  old  or  young. 

In  the  fall  of  1896,  we  wrote  the  following 
for  The  Afnerican  fancier,  and  consider  it  of 
value  at  this  time: 

Before  me  are  two  articles  written  by  two 
of  our  most  noted  writers,  judges  and  Bantam 
experts,  the  tone  of  which  call  my  attention  to 
the  desired  qualities  of  the  Sebright  and 
their  shortcomings  of  the  present  day. 

In  the  Canadian  Poultry  Review  one  of 
the  above-mentioned  articles,  from  the  pen  of 
Mr.  Babcock,  calls  our  attention  to  the  color 
of  legs  on  the  Golden  Sebright,  and  his  state- 
ment I  shall  consider,  for  it  covers  a  point 
so  often  advanced  by  myself,  and  which  de- 
serves careful  attention.  His  statement  is  given 
in  full  below: 

"The  Golden  Sebright  has  blue  legs,  and 
it  looks  very  well  with  them,  but  did  you  ever 
see  a  Golden  Sebright  with  greenish  yellow 
legs?  If  you  have  you  have  seen  a  symphony 
in  color,  for  then  the  legs  harmonized  with  the  pli 
way  which  blue  can  not.  I  know  that  such  legs  disqualify  the 
bird.  I  know  that  for  the  purposes  of  classification  blue  legs 
— which  are  the  correct  thing  on  the  Silver — are  the  best.  But 
I  also  know  that  art  is  above  standards  and  the  rules  of  classi- 
fication, and  that  an  adherence  to  art  would  compel  the  Golden 
Sebright  to  have  yellow  legs.  I  do  not  expect  to  see  this 
change  made  in  the  standard  until  the  time  comes  when  many 
other  changes,  based  upon  a  compliance  with  correct  taste,  are 
made.  When  that  time  comes  there  will  be  many  sweeping 
changes,  especially  in  the  color  of  legs,  of  the  different  breeds 
of  fowls.  In  this  respect  the  standard,  while  in  harmony  with 
market  prejudices,  is  out  of  harmony  with  nature  and  the  law 
of  coloration.  The  result  is  that  the  best  successes  now 
obtained  are  obtained  with  great  difficulty,  and  they  are  far 
from  being  what  the  second  best  could  be  under  a  differently 
designed  standard." 

These  are  very  sweeping  statements  and  worthy  of  con- 
sideration, and  while  I  should  join  the  writer  in  the  statement 
that  art  is  above  standards,  we  must  admit  that  the  laws  of 
nature  are  far  above  both.  This  being  the  case,  yellow  legs 
could  not  belong  to  the  Golden  Sebright  for  the  following 
reasons: 


First,  their  origin,  their  advancement  and  their  comple- 
tion and  make-up  forbid  it.  Second,  yellow  legs  do  not  from 
natural  causes  belong  to  birds  of  their  color. 

As  to  the  first  we  must  consider  origin,  and  on  this  point 
the  best  evidence  gives  us  two  very  positive  points.  One,  the 
female  used  in  the  start  was  a  very  small  buff  colored  Bantam 
with  clear  slate  colored  legs,  no  doubt  a  Nankin.  Polish  was 
also  used,  no  doubt  the  Golden;  also  a  cock  of  a  reddish  color 
and  a  small  hen  resembling  a  Golden  Hamburg.  Three  of  the 
four  we  know  had  blue  legs,  and  we  can  feel  almost  certain 
that  the  reddish  colored  cock  must  have  had  the  dark  legs  of 


FIG.  19.— PAIR  OF  GOLDEN  SEBRIGHT  BANTAMS. 

the  early  Games,  the  majority  of  which  had  blue  or  olive  legs. 
The  only  cross  used  that  would  indicate  a  yellow  color  of  legs 
was  the  white  bird  used  to  produce  the  silver  colored  birds. 
The  origin  being  so  positive  in  the  leg  color,  the  product  had 
it  well  stamped  in  the  blood,  and  being  the  natural  color  of 
the  original  before  the  hand  of  man  began  to  work  changes  of 
form  and  color,  it  claimed  supremacy  and  held  it. 

As  to  their  advancement,  the  club  formed  for  their  ad- 
vancement about  1820  and  continued  for  over  seventy  years, 
always  mentioned  in  their  requirements  very  specially  the 
color  of  the  legs.  They  say  legs  and  feet  are  required  to  be 
blue.  And  this  point  being  so  positively  established  a  change 
of  color  would  be  so  radical  it  must  destroy  the  color  of  the 
whole  bird.  When  one  so  well  informed  on  these  points  ad- 
vocates so  positive  a  change  what  must  we  think  of  a  standard 
that  allows  in  White  Booted  Bantams  white  or  yellow  legs 
when  the  special  character  of  this  variety  is  their  white  beak 
and  legs?  All  white  varieties  if  desired  to  be  pure  white  in 
color  will  naturally  in  time  have  white  legs  and  beaks.  This 
again  proves  the  superiority  of  nature  over  art  or  standard  de- 
mands.    Mr.  Babcock  also  makes  the  following  statements: 

"It  is  not  always  easy  to  get  the  wings  of  the  Golden  Se- 
bright just  right,     White  will  creep  into  the  yellow  and  black 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


will  disappear  from  where  it  is  wanted.  Outside  of  the  comb 
there  is  hardly  a  point  where  the  breeding  is  so  unsatisfactory 
as  in  the  primaries  of  the  Golden  Sebright.  Just  why  this 
should  be  the  weak  spot  I  have  never  seen  explained  and  I 
have  no  explanation  to  offer.  It  may,  perhaps,  always  remain 
one  of  the  mysteries  of  breeding,  and  there  are  many  to  all 
except  the  beginner — he  understands  more  on  the  start  than 


PIG.  20. — PAIR   OF  SILVER   SEBRIGHT   BANTAMS. 

he  will  when  experience  has  sobered  his  enthusiasm  and 
reduced  the  size  of  his  head. 

"Another  difficulty  in  breeding  the  Sebright  is  to  secure 
narrow  lacings  which  go  clear  around  the  web  of  the  feather. 
The  tendency  is,  if  the  lacings  are  narrow,  to  stop  before  they 
get  clear  around  the  web,  and  if  they  go  clear  around  they  are 
usually  too  wide  and  obscure  the  ground  color  and  thus  injure 
the  beauty  of  the  bird.  My  experience  leads  me  to  believe 
that  this  difficulty  is  greater  in  GoUleus  than  in  Silvers;  why, 
I  do  not  know — it  i.s  another  mystery." 

Here  is  presented  the  experience  and  opinion  of  one  of 
our  foremost  experts  about  a  breed  of  fowls  now  in  its  hun- 
dredth generation.  He  is  compelled  to  admit  the  many 
shortcomings  in  the  breed,  one  of  our  most  artistic  productions 
in  fowls.  Could  the  liaud  of  man  guide  them  still  farther  and 
produce  the  yellow  legs  and  hold  even  as  good  qualities  of 
color  and  penciling,  or  will  nature  refuse  to  lend  her  aid  and 
thus  destroy  the  whole?  We  all  know  full  well  how  the 
attempts  to  govern  the  color  of  ear-lobes  failed.  How,  then, 
can  we  hope  for  the  yellow  legs? 

Many  trials  must  be  made  before  one  can  fully  understand 
the  troubles  that  confront  us  when  breeding  these  beauties. 
Here  are  pointed  out  the  hard,  rough  places  to  be  found  when 
trying  to  produce  the  high  grade  specimen  required  for  the 
keene.st  competition.  In  a  well  written  article  in  The  Ameri- 
can Fancier  by  "Zim,"  he  makes  the  following  statements: 

"All  of  us  know  full  well  that  a  perfectly  clear  tail,  a 
perfectly  clear  wing  or  a  faultless  comb  are  very,  very  desirable, 
yet  neither  of  these  coveted  qualities  makes  a  bird,  regardless 
of  his  style,  shape,  or  lacing  of  other  sections.  Real  judgment 
is  the  kind  that  makes  note  of  all  the  good  and  all  the  poor 
qualities  of  a  bird,  and  awards  the  ribbon  to  the  best  all-round 
specimen,  regardless  of  the  fact  that  there  remains  in  the 
class  a  bird  unnoticed  that  has  one  or  two  exceptionally  good 
qualities,  and  several  just  as  objectionable .  qualities.  This 
applies  to  mating  and  breeding  as  well.  The  would-be  breeder 
of  Sebrights  of  to-day  simply  needs  to  start  right  by  bviying 
birds  of  the  right  sort  and  continuing  to  mate  and  breed  on  the 


same  line,  and  he  can  not  go  far  astray,  as  they  breed  remarka 
bly  true  to-day." 

After  considering  all  these  points  the  reader  must  remember 
that  no  variety  of  the  whole  number  of  standard  varieties 
requires  more  perfection  in  every  section  than  the  Sebright, 
from  the  point  of  his  beak  to  the  ends  of  his  toes.  All  must  be 
perfection.  This  being  the  case,  he  who  desires  to  produce 
the  higher  grade  of  perfection  must  study 
well  his  matings,  for  no  variety  looks  better 
when  fine  in  form,  color  and  markings;  none 
less  attractive  when  inferior  in  these  points. 

The  standard  for  Goldens  calls  for  color 
of  a  rich  golden  yellow,  each  feather  evenly 
and  distinctly  laced  all  around  with  a  narrow 
edging  of  black.  Please  consider  this  for  a 
moment.  What  is  a  rich  golden  yellow?  Is 
it  the  color  of  a  fresh  chestnut  shell  or  an  old 
almond  shell?  Is  not  the  color  of  many  of 
our  Goldens  eutireh'  too  dark,  as  judged  by 
the  wording  of  the  standard?  Is  the  black 
stripe  kept  to  the  narrow  line?  The  answer 
must  be  "No."  The  color  of  the  Silver 
Sebright  should  be  a  silvery  white,  with  the 
narrow  edge  of  black.  Remember,  a  silvery 
white,  not  a  yellowish  white,  nor  any  kind 
of  white  other  than  the  silvery  white. 
These  colors,  when  true  and  properly  striped 
with  the  narrow  edge  of  black,  form  a  beauti- 
ful combination.  The  narrow  edge  gives  a 
bright,  gay  appearance.  A  broad  edge  of 
black  spoils  the  whole  appearance  of  the  bird. 
Next  to  bad  color  are  a  long  back  and  a  drooping  breast.  These 
faults  should  almost  disqualify  a  bird.  Why  is  it,  when  the 
standard  speaks  so  plainly  on  the  points  of  form  and  color, 
that  so  many  win  honors  that  scarcely  fill  a  single  require- 
ment?    Too  much  consideration  can  not  be   given   to  these 


FIG.  l\. — SILVER  SEBRIGHT  COCK. 
A  Model  for  Style,  Size  aud  Marking-. 

words  iu  reference  to  the   Sebrights,  taken   from   an  English 
journal,  as  follows: 

"What  has  been  lost  aud  what  gained  iu  this  particular 
variety?  Probably  birds  are  now  to  be  found  as  accurately 
laced  as  ever,  and  the  pure  white  ground  color  of  some  strains 
of  Silvers  has  been  an  introduction  of  later  breeders.  But 
what  has  the  sacrifice  been?    To  begin  with,  wc  can  reuiembei- 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


Sebrights  little  more  than  half  the  size  of  the  present  exhibi- 
tion birds.  Truly,  in  Bantams  this  is  a  great  retrogression. 
Then  the  characteristic  hen-tail  of  the  cocks  is  seldom  now 
seen  in  anything  like  perfection.  But  more  than  all,  the  beau- 
tiful coxcombical  Bantam  carriage  has  been  lost.  Let  any 
fancier  with  an  eve  for  form  look  at  the  lankj',  ungainly 
tucked-up  creatures  now  often  in  a  prize  pen,  and  then  read 
descriptions  of  Sebright  carriage  a  quarter  of  a  century-  ago, 
and  his  only  rational  conclusion  will  be  that  much  has  here 
been  lost.  What  says  Dixon,  whose  book  was 
published  in  1850?  'Here  is  a  little  whipper- 
snapper!  His  ample  tail,  from  which  sickle 
feathers  are  absent,  is  carried  well  over  his 
back.  His  dependent  wings  nearh'  touch  the 
ground.  He  is  as  upright  as  the  stiffest  drill 
sergeant,  or  more  so,  for  he  appears  now  and 
then  as  if  he  would  fall  backward  like  a  horse 
that  overrears  himself.'  What  again,  writes 
Mr.  Hewitt  in  Tegetmeier's  poultry  book?  'In 
the  carriage  of  these  birds  we  find  the  ver}- 
extreme  of  pride,  vanity  and  self-importance. 
The  feet  are  raised  in  walking  much  more  than 
in  an}'  of  the  other  Bantams,  and  planted  again 
with  the  greatest  deliberation  and  precision. 
When  alarmed  their  deportment  is  most 
striking.  The  wings  drop  to  the  ground,  not 
listlessly,  but  as  if  determined  to  make  the 
most  of  their  tiny  proportions,  while  the  head 
is  thrown  back  and  the  tail  raised,  so  that  the}- 
nearly  meet.'  Other  writers  lay  stress  on  the 
nervous  motion  of  the  Sebright  cock,  being 
almost  like  that  of  the  Fantail  pigeon.  These 
descriptions  are  hardly  that  of  the  Sebright  of 
1896.  A  large  field,  it  seems  to  us,  is  open  for 
the  improvement  of  the  breed  by  intelligent 
fanciers  in  smallness  and  carriage." 

Even  in  England  they  are  alarmed  at  the 
backward  step  in  this  variety  of  Bantams.  The 
most  important  feature  of  the  Sebright  and  the 
one  most  neglected  is  form  and  carriage.  The 
standard  calls  for  a  very  short  back  and  a  full 
round  breast  carried  prominently  forward.  The 
body  should  be  compact,  deep  and  short.  On 
one  very  important  point  the  standard  is  .silent, 
namely,  carriage.  This  is  the  one  very  important 
feature  of  their  make-up,  as  Mr.  Hewitt  wrote 
man}'  years  ago:  "They  are  the  very  extreme 
of  pride,  vanity  and  self-importance."  Their 
carriage  should  be  upright  and  striking,  not 
drooped  nor  indolent.  We  see  too  many  long, 
ill-formed,  unattractive  specimens  to-day. 
They  should  be  bred  up  to  the  following  form  ''"'•  "" 

and  color:  The  Sebright  should  be  valued  as 
follows — First,  size  and  carriage;  second,  color  and  marking, 
always  demanding  perfection  of  all  four,  for  when  either  is 
wanting  the  combination  is  broken  and  the  true  beaut}'  gone. 
The  color  should  be  for  the  Golden,  a  rich  golden  yellow;  for 
Silvers,  a  true  silvery  white.  Any  other  color  should  not  be 
tolerated.  Both  should  be  distinctly  laced  all  around  each 
feather  with  a  narrow  stripe  or  edge  of  black.  Remember 
that  any  other  color  is  absolutely  wrong  and  a  wide  edge  or 
discoloration  of  any  kind  in  ground  color  is  despicable. 

The  first  point,  size  or  weight,  as  per  our  standard,  is 
wrong.  The  bird  should  b?  smaller.  As  to  carriage,  it  is 
almost  lost.  When  have  we  seen  such  style  as  exhibited  in 
the  cut  of  the  Silver  cock?  Let  all  take  lessons  from  the  illus- 
tration furnished  with  these  articles  and  try  to  improve  this 
most  Ijeautiful  variety  of  Bantams. 

Another  important  feature  is  often  lost  sight  of,  /.  c\,  the 


shape  of  the  feathers  of  Sebrights.  They  should  be  almost 
round,  or  quite  so  at  the  outer  end;  not  oblong  or  tapering. 
The  round  feather  when  properly  laced  gives  the  right  form  of 
coloring.  When  long  and  tapering  the  center  has  the  appear- 
ance of  an  oval  white  or  golden  stripe  on  the  feathers.  This 
is  a  ver}-  grave  fault,  in  fact  so  bad  that  we  can  not  advise  the 
use  of  such  a  specimen  under  any  condition. 

Mating  for  best   results   is   a  matter  of  importance,  and 
but  one  method  can  he  followed  with  hope  of  success.     Always 


-1'H(jToc;ra1'H[C  RKl'RumCTUI.N'S  OF   SILVER  SEBRIGHT 
B.\NTAM    FE.ATHERS. 

use,  if  possible,  hens  over  one  year  old  for  breeders.  What- 
ever your  females  may  he,  have  them  small  and  perfect  in 
color.  If  these  females  are  light  in  the  point  of  lacing,  mate 
them  with  a  male  that  is  too  heavy  in  lacing  for  the  show  pen. 
If  the  females  are  heavily  laced,  mate  them  to  a  light  laced 
male.  The  tendency  in  this  variety  is  to  lose  in  color  and 
lacing.  Never  hope  for  the  best  results  from  birds  that  are 
bad  in  color.  None  but  the  very  best  of  this  variety  is  good 
enough  to  produce  fine  specimens. 

In  regard  to  the  male,  .study  well  the  following:  He  should 
be  sound  of  ground  color;  if  golden,  rather  a  little  darker  than 
the  standard  calls  for,  not  on  the  reddish  order,  but  like  a 
fresh  shelled  almond;  if  silver,  the  ground  color  should  be 
very  clear,  rather  on  the  whitish  order.  Both  should  be  evenly 
and  plainly  laced  with  a  rich,  greenish  black.  No  mossy, 
smutty  color  of  any  kind  ought  to  be  allowed,  and  we  must 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


never  hope  for  good  results  if  much  is  present.  Select  one 
with  this  style  of  coloring  and  as  little  bad  color  as  possible. 
Get  the  very  best  wing,  comb  and  tail  you  can  find  with 
the  above  color,  and  even  then  remember  your  selection  is 
only  half  made,  for  you  must  have  with  this,  perfect  form  and 
carriage,  and  small  size.  Always  remember  that  twenty-eight- 
ounce  birds  are  not  likely  to  produce  sixteen-ounce  young 
stock.  Twofemales  with  one  male  is  better  than  four.  If  you 
use  a  cock  bird  over  two  years  old,  give  him  but  one  young 
hen.  Always  select  birds  with  short,  round  feathers,  and  not 
long  and  narrow.  Look  well  to  the  style  and  carriage  of  both 
male  and  female. 

FROM  A  PROMINENT  BREEDER. 

T.\uNTON,  Massachusetts. 
Mr.  T.  F.  McGrew: 

About  breeding  Bantams,  I  do  not  know  if  I  can  impart 
the  knowledge  I  may  think  I  possess.  I  have  my  ideas,  but 
seldom  speak  of  them. 

In  Sebrights,  to  keep  the  size  down  is  one  thing,  and  a 
great  thing  for  me.  This  I  have  done  by  selecting  a  small 
male,  with  a  small  leg  and  as  good  color  and  shape  as  I  can 
get.  In  size  I  have  never  had  any  trouble  when  I  confined 
myself  to  my  own  strain.  When  I  have  introduced  new  blood 
by  importing  or  buying  here  I  always  have  increased  the  size. 
Comb,  I  never  had  any  trouble  about.  I  take  care  of  that  as  I 
do  in  my  other  breed.  Shape,  we  all  have  lost  in  Sebrights. 
Twenty-five  or  thirty  years  ago  they  were  a  proud,  strutting 
bird  and  very  pretty.  But  now  they  are  long-bodied,  and  the 
ear-lobes  may  be  white  or  red.  To  me  it  is  a  great  mistake; 
since  they  have  lost  shape  and  the  white  ear-lobes  they  have 
lost  their  attraction  for  me,  and  if  it  were  not  for  the  pleas- 
ure of  trying  to  get  them  back,  I  would  have  given  them  up 
years  ago.  I  used  to  practice  hatching  them  in  August  and 
September  to  keep  down  the  size,  but  in  these  days  of  com- 
parison shows  it  does  not  seem  to  make  much  difference 
whether  they  are  large  or  small.  The  lacing  I  do  not  think  I 
ever  worried  much  about.  By  mating  the  very  best  laced 
birds  that  will  almost  take  care  of  itself.  Sometimes  I  have 
been  troubled  with  the  main  color  being  a  little  light,  but  care 
in  mating  will  fix  that.  Too  much  black  or  smut  in  tail  we 
often  have,  and  then  one  must  mate  a  cockerel  too  light  in 
color.  Like  all  other  breeds,  when  you  think  only  of  one 
section  of  the  bird,  you  are  apt  to  lose  in  the  others,  as  in  the 
case  of  the  Light  Brahmas  of  to-day.     We  look  to  its  hackle. 


wing  and  white  surface  color,  and  shape  must  take  care  of 
itself.     We  all  follow  fads  and  fashions.     Is  it  not  so? 

P.  Williams 

FROM  A  FANCIER. 

Mr.  Ira  C.  Keller  furnished  us  the  following  notes  on 
Sebrights.  His  success  with  this  breed  makes  his  statements 
most  valuable. 

Prospect,  Ohio. 
Mr.  T.  F.  McGrew: 

Possibly  there  is  no  breed  of  Bantams  that  has  had  so 
much  attention  among  the  fanciers  as  the  Sebrights.  It  is 
right  they  should,  for  there  certainly  is  no  breed  that  ap- 
proaches them  in  style  and  beauty.  The  narrow  lacing  shows 
to  a  great  advantage,  and  so  strikingly  that  at  first  sight  they 
captivate  the  visitors  at  the  shows.  Breeding  Sebrights  in 
years  past  was  very  wearisome,  but  to-day  they  are  so  well  and 
thoroughly  bred  that  they  breed  a  very  large  per  cent  of  high- 
class  birds.  The  fancy  to-day  demands  a  narrow  lacing  all 
over  the  bird.  This  is  rather  difiicult  to  produce,  but  has  been 
greatly  improved  during  the  past  five  years.  In  mating,  to 
produce  this  narrow  lacing,  we  select  the  most  narrow  laced 
birds  we  have  that  are  full  laced  throughout,  with  other  points 
good,  and  by  doing  this  year  after  year  the  lacing  can  be  pro- 
duced very  narrow. 

Shape  and  form  need  looking  after.  Early  hatched  Se- 
brights usually  grow  too  leggy,  long-backed,  etc.  The  best 
time  to  hatch  them  is  from  the  15th  of  May  until  the  1st  of 
September.  One  can  produce  smaller  size  and  better  form  by 
hatching  during  these  months.  Most  American  breeders  feed 
Bantams  too  heavy  and  too  rich  food.  The  Sebright  likes 
free  range  best.  It  will  find  nearlj'  all  the  food  needed  for  its 
growth.  They  like  to  rove  over  pasture  lands,  through  woods 
and  along  weedy  fence-rows.  If  given  their  liberty  they  are 
extremely  prolific  and  will  la}'  nearly  the  year  through. 

In  feeding  young  Sebrights,  we  feed  during  the  first  two 
weeks  bread  crumbs  and  oat  meal;  then  we  change  to  a  chopped 
food  of  one  part  corn  meal,  one  part  ground  oats  and  one  part 
bran  scalded  and  mixed  to  a  dry  crumbling  mass.  For  the  rest 
of  the  day  we  feed  cracked  wheat  and  corn,  and  as  soon  as  they 
will  eat  whole  wheat  we  give  it  to  them.  They  grow  to  ma- 
turity very  rapidly;  usually  are  crowing  at  six  to  eight  weeks 
old.     No  more  attractive  bird  can  be  kept  around  the  house. 

Sebrights  are  very  profitable  to  breed  for  show  purposes. 
Good  specimens  are  always  in  great  demand  at  good  prices. 
We  have  bred  them  for  over  twenty-five  years  and  have  never 
had  any  trouble  in  disposing  of  all  we  raise. 

Ika  C.  Kei.i.ku, 


CHAPTER   V. 


ROSE  COMB  BANTAMS. 

They  Might  Be  Called  Hamburg  Bantams.  As   Well  As  We  Call  Others  Cochins  and  Games- 
What  Others  Say  About  Them. 


HE  Black  Bantam  is  spoken  of  at  so  early  a  day  tha* 
some  contend  that  it  was  his  imprudent  crow  that  got 
St.  Peter  into  trouble.  Be  this  as  it  may,  he  and  his 
companion,  the  White,  began  their  career  long  before 
any  one  took  enough  notice  of  them  to  keep  a  record  of 
their  beginning.  Black  and  White  Bantams  with  rose 
and  single  combs,  with  and  without  feathered  legs,  are 
mentioned  as  existing  centuries  ago.  Moubray  mentions  in 
1815,  the  fact  that  some  Bantams  were  lately  obtained  that  were 
extremely  small,  having  legs  as  smooth  as 
Games.  He  also  gives  to  India  the  credit  of 
their  origin.  (The  earliest  illustrations  of 
Black  Bantams  show  the  rose  comb  and  smooth 
legs).  Other  writers  claim  Java  as  the  original 
home  of  all  Bantams,  but  be  this  as  it  may, 
they  came  to  England  over  two  hundred  years 
ago,  and  the  original  were  booted  or  feathered 
legged.  Of  these  we  will  write  later,  only 
mentioning  the  above  facts  to  show  about  the 
date  of  mention  of  smooth  legged  Bantams. 

The  Black  and  White  Rose  Comb  Ban- 
tams began  to  gain  favor  and  prominence  as 
show  birds  in  1850.  About  this  time  some  were 
shown  that  only  weighed  as  follows:  Cock 
fourteen  ounces,  and  hen  twelve  ounces  at 
twenty-two  months  old.  At  this  early  day  the 
Whites  were  very  true  to  color.  Then  perfectly 
white  plumage   throughout  without  a   single 

stain,   could  be  seen.     These  birds   had  also  

white  beaks,  legs,  toes  and  ear-lobes.     Now  we  -  '~~'^—''Z^ 

demand   the   yellow  beak    and  legs  and  with 

them   get  the  yellow  plumage  and  ear-lobes, 

and  for  weight  we  allow  twenty-six  ounces  for 

a  cock  bird,  just  twelve  ounces  more  than  the 

birds  of  fifty  years  ago. 

It  may  be  of  interest  to  our  readers  to  know 
what  these  Bantams  were  like  fifty  years  ago, 
so  we  quote  from  the  words  of  Messrs.  Andrew, 
Gwynne  and  Bailey,  noted  fanciers  of  the 
time.  As  to  weight,  they  say:  "The  less  in  reason  the  better, 
but  never  diminutiveness  at  the  sacrifice  of  shape,  feather  and 
condition.  The  Blacks:  The  males  should  have  a  full  crimson 
rose  comb,  with  wattles  and  face  of  the  same  hue,  but  with  ear- 
lobes  perfectly  white;  plumage  glossy  black,  reflecting  purple 
tints;  tail  full  and  sickled;  short  legs,  which  with  the  feet 
should  be  of  a  dark  horn  color.  The  hen  is  dusky  black,  with 
her  comb  and  wattles  small,  and  of  a  dull  leaden  hue." 

Of  their  appearance  they  say:  "Bold  of  carriage,  a  very 
caricature  of  Bantam  arrogrance.  For  the  Whites  the  same 
form  is  demanded,  and  color  as  above  stated."  Rev.  G.  F. 
Hudson  bred  wonders  of  the  White  variety  in  those  early  days, 
and  he  wrote  that  yellow  beaks  and  feet  were  quite  an  obj  ection . 
In  breeding  Black  Rose  Combs  at  this  time  the  dull  color 
of  former  days  is  not  allowable  in  the  female.  It  must  be  as 
in  the  male — ^lustrous  black.  To  obtain  this  rich  black  with 
beetle  green  sheen  in  our  females  requires  special  breeding. 


A  rich,  true  colored  male  must  be  mated  to  dull  colored  females 
to  produce  the  best  colored  males.  These'same  males  mated 
to  rich  colored  females  produce  fine  females,  but  the  males 
will  show  red  in  hackle  and  saddle  and  on  wings.  Male  birds 
so  bred  should  be  reserved  for  pullet  breeding  only.  To  get 
the  very  best  results,  you  must  make  special  matings  for  both 
males  and  females.  In  selecting  breeding  stock  special  atten- 
tion must  be  given  to  the  quality  of  comb  on  both  male  and 
females.     Look  well  for  good  shape,  spikes  and  peaks,  for  no 


PIG.  23. — BLACK    ROSE   COMB   BANTAM   MALE. 

matter  how  good  otherwise,  a  bad  comb  kills  the  appearance. 
Do  not  encourage  bad  lobes  by  breeding  from  either  a  male 
or  female  having  them,  for  no  fault  will  grow  faster  with  as 
little  encouragement.  Do  not  pen  more  than  four  females  with 
the  male;  three  is  better.  If  these  points  are  well  looked  after 
and  your  birds  are  right  in  form,  carriage  and  color,  quite  a 
large  per  cent  of  good  chicks  should  be  the  result  of  such 
matings.  Separate  mating  is  not  required  for  the  production 
of  males  or  females  in  the  Whites.  If  comb,  ear-lobe,  color 
and  form  qualities  are  right  they  should  breed  fine  specimens, 
but  we  favor  the  white  bill  and  legs,  knowing  as  we  do,  that 
our  standard  prefers  them  yellow.  Our  experience  tells  us 
that  these  colors  add  or  detract  from  the  pureness  of  both 
plumage  and  ear-lobes.  The  yellow  beak  and  legs  have  an 
influence  over  the  color  of  both,  and  the  color  is  much  purer 
when  the  white  leg  is  well  established  in  the  blood. 
To  Mr.  E.  Hutton  the  credit  is  largely  due  for  the  ; 


22 


THE  BANTAM   FOWL. 


English  type  of  Rose  Comb  Bantams.  They  are  miniature 
Hamburgs  in  all  their  points.  No  doubt  they  were  crossed  with 
the  Hamburgs  to  establish  the  form  and  color.  Our  standard 
allows  blue  or  leaden  blue  for  the  legs  of  White  Hamburgs, 
and  yelljjw  or  white  for  the  White  Rose  Comb  Bantam.  When 
white,  a  pinkish  tinge  on  the  back  and  between  the  scales 
is  allowed.     We  consider  this  a  mistake. 

The  proper  weights  for  Rose  Comb  Bantams  in  good  show- 
form  are  about  twenty  ounces  for  a  cock,  eighteen  for  a  hen, 


and  in  proportion  for  young  birds.  Some  ounces  less-than  this 
adds  to  their  beauty  if  good  form  and  vigor  are  maintained. 
When  you  consider  that  our  standard  onh-  makes  two  ounces  all 
along  the  line  between  a  Rose  Comb  or  ,Sebright  and  a  Buff 
Pekin,  you  must  be  surprised  to  know  that  the  English  stand- 
ard calls  for  a  weight  in  Cochin  Bantams,  of  thirty-two  to  thirty- 
six  ounces  for  males,  twenty-eight  to  thirty-two  ounces  for 
females;  for  Sebright  Bantams,  twenty-two  ounces  for  males 
and  eighteen  ounces  for  females;  for  Rose  Combs,  sixteen  to 


twenty  ovmces  for  males,  fourteen  to  seventeen  ounces  for 
females,  while  we  allow  for  the  Rose  Combs,  twenty-two  to 
twenty-six  ounces  for  males  and  twenty  to  twenty -two  ounces 
for  females,  six  ounces  more  for  each  than  the}%  almost  one- 
half  pound  over  their  weight,  and  even  then  some  of  our 
specimens  crowd  close  to  the  overweight  line. 

Most  certainly  the  weights  for  Sebrights  and  Rose  Comb 
Bantams  should  be  reduced  somewhat  in  our  standard,  and 
the  birds  should  be  bred  to  them.  Again,  our  standard  calls 
for  a  very  short  back  for  Rose  Comb  males,  the 
Uuglish  for  a  moderatelj-  long  one.  When  did 
you  see  a  Rose  Comb  with  a  ver}'  short  back, 
being  fashioned  after  the  Hamburg?  Their 
backs  favor  their  forms. 

Many  little  points  like  these  should  be  well 
considered  by  all  Bantam  fanciers.  AVe  formu- 
late our  standard  oftentimes  without  due 
con.sideration  for  nature  and  thus  word  a 
description  that  if  followed  to  the  letter  would 
change  the  real  breed  characteristics. 

To  breed  Black  Rose  Comb  Bantams  at 
the  present  time,  one  must  strive  for  a  very 
lustrous  beetle  green  shade  of  plumage  in 
both  male  and  female.  Dull  colors  will  not 
answer.  To  secure  this  shade  of  color,  the 
ver}'  best  colored  specimens  of  both  male 
;  RO.SE  and    female    should    be     mated    together.     If 

this  method  of  mating  produces  reddish  shad- 
ing in  males,  use  dull  colored  females  to  reduce  the  brilliancy 
in  the  males  and  keep  the  females  of  this  cross  for  pro- 
ducing males. 

To  secure  pure  white  color  in  White  Rose  Comb  Bantams 
use  only  as  breeders  birds  that  have  pure  white  plumage  to  the 
skin,  white  quills  to  their  feathers,  white  ear-lobes  and  whitish 
colored  beaks  and  legs.  If  pure  white  in  plumage  and  ear- 
lobes  they  cau  stand  a  cut  for  beak  and  legs  if  these  are  not 
the  best  of  color. 


CHAPTER  VI. 


BOOTED   BANTAMS. 

The  Original  or  First  Bantams  Known  or  Recorded  as  One  of  Our  Domestic  Fowls  Were  Booted. 


HERE  the  original  Booted  Bantam  came  from  will 
|iiiji((.  never  be  known  positively,  but  we  do  know  that 
nii  they  came  to  us  from  Bantam,  a  town  and  district 
,  !!|^'  in  Java,  more  than  three  hundred  years  ago,  and 
Mf^J\\  that  they  were  booted  and  of  many  colors,  some 
having  single,  others  rose,  or  double  combs,  as 
then  called.  How  they  came  to  that  province 
never  will  be  known.  One  of  the  early  writers  of  1850  tells  us 
that  feather  legged  and  feather  footed  Bantams  were  among 
the  earliest  and  most  common  of  their  race,  and  they  were  in 
color,  black,  white  and  yellow,  and  spangled  in  these  colors. 
They  were  larger  than  now,  and  the  feathers  on  their  legs 
and  feet  were  frequently  four  or  five  inches  long. 

Booted  Bantams  of  the  present  day,  like  other  fowls,  are 
much  improved.  More  varieties  or  colors  of  them  are  seen 
than  formerly.  Judging  from  the  illustrations  taken  from  Mr. 
Entwisle's  book  on  Bantams,  the  shape  would  point  to  across 
with  the  Japanese  Bantam.  The  back,  neck  and  tail  of  the 
female,  and  the  whole  body  and  tail  of  the  male,  show  the 
Japanese  form  on  heavily  booted  legs.  Either  our  Booted 
Bantams  are  behind  the  times,  or  the  illustration  is  at  fault:"' 
The  English  recognize  the  following  varieties  in  Booted 
Black,  White,  Speckled  Black  and  White,  Speckled 


than  other  Bantams,  having  been  bred  more  for  feather  than 
for  size,  or,  as  some  affirm,  they  have  been  allowed  to  breed 
anyway,  with  no  definite  set  purpose  in  the  mind  of  the 
breeder  as  to   a   model  for  perfection.      The  result  is,  some 


FIG.  25. — BOOTED  BANTAM  MALE. 
After  the  Japanese  form. 
Red,  and  Dutch  Bearded.  The  Sultan  Bantams  are  almost  of 
the  same  class.  The  English  writers  place  the  Burmese  and 
Silkies  with  them,  but  this,  I  think,  is  a  little  too  much.  I 
quote  from  Mr.  Entwisle's  book  on  Bantams,  the  following 
statement  on  Booted  Bantams:  "Take  the  best  known  varie- 
ties. White  and  Black  Booted.     Both  are  considerably  larger 


FIG.    26. — BOOTED   BANTAM   FEMALE. 
After  the  Japanese  form. 

closely  resemble  the  Japanese  in  form  and  carriage,  holding 
their  wings  and  tail  as  they  do,  but  having  longer  legs;  others 
are  shorter  in  leg  and  have  a  higher  carriage  of  wing  and  a 
lower  tail.  This  class  finds  more  favor  with  our  judges  and 
breeders,  and  we  think  will  continue  to  do  so." 

At  the  present  time  the  English  cultivate  the  Japanese 
form,  only  they  wish  the  wings  held  up  more  and  the  tail 
thrown  back  or  down  more  than  the  Japs,  but  they  favor  a 
shorter  leg  than  formerly.  On  one  point  we  should  be  very 
particular — the  color  of  legs  and  beak.  The  white  beak  and 
legs  are  a  distinguishing  feature  in  them,  as  the  pale  bill  is  to 
the  Aylesbury. 

Booted  Bantams  should  have  a  small,  round  head;  bright, 
prominent  eyes;  handsomely  shaped  comb,  and  wattles  of  fine 
texture  and  rich  color;  ear-lobes,  bright  red  and  close  fitting; 
neck,  full  or  heavy  at  base,  nicely  tapered  to  the  head  and 
rather  long  as  compared  with  the  size  of  the  bird;  hackle,  very 
long  and  flowing  over  back;  back,  short  and  rather  slanting, 
the  tendency  towards  erect  carriage  gives  the  back  a  slight 
incline  towards  the  tail;  body,  plump  and  short.  The  wings, 
tail,  hocks  and  toe  feathering  are  the  distinguishing  feature  of 
the  Booted  Bantams.  These  we  shall  try  to  describe  as  they 
should  be  in  a  perfect  specimen. 

The  wings  of  a  Booted  Bantam  should  be  long  in  flights 
and  carried  drooping,  not  tucked  up  as  in  a  Cochin.  The 
hock  feathers  should  be  quite  long;  if  five  or  six  inches  in 
length  and  quite  full  it  adds  nmch  to  the  bird's  appearance. 
Shanks  should  be  long  enough  to  properly  support  the  feather- 
ing of  hock,  which  should  not  drag  on  the  ground;  shank 
feathering  not  very  full  at  hock,  but  should  increase  lower 
down.     Feathers  of  outer  toes  and  lower  shank  should  be  very 


24 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


profuse  and  long,  the  heavier  and  longer  they  are  the  more 
valuable.  The  heavy  foot  feathers,  long  wings  and  hock 
feathering  of  a  fine  specimen  make  it  necessary  to  provide 
clean  quarters  for  their  home.  When  soiled  and  broken  they 
are  a  disgusting  sight. 

The  tail  of  both  male  and  female  should  be  full  and  car- 


il(      n      WHITE  BOOTED  BANTA.M  COCK  AND  BLACK  BOOTED 

ried  upright  The  sickles  of  the  male  should  be  long  and 
handsomely  curved  over  the  back.  The  tail  should  not  be 
carried  so  far  forward  as  on  the  Japanese,  but  a  little  after  the 
Leghorn  style  of  tail.  The  feniale  is  of  the  same  form  as  the 
male,  with  much  less  comb,  wattle,  ear-lobe  and 
hackle.  Her  hock  and  foot"  feathering  should  be 
very  profuse. 

The  preceding  describes  the  true  form  of  a  Booted 
Bantam  in  its  natural  condition,  free  from  all  taint  of 
Cochin  or  Japanese  blood.  Of  whatever  color,  they 
should  have  their  own  natural  form  and  carriage 
When  fashioned  after  the  White  Cochin  Bantams 
they  should  be  discarded  as  of  no  value.  The  color 
should  be  pure  silvery  white;  or,  when  of  any  other  ^^ 
color,  rich  and  bright  of  its  kind.  The  Blacks 
should  be  rich  and  lustrous  of  color  and  their  beaks 
and  legs  black.  The  Whiskered  or  Muffled  are  just 
like  the  others,  only  they  have  heavy  muff  or  feath 
ers  on  cheek  and  under  their  beaks,  also  shorter  legs 
and  not  so  much  feathering  on  hock  and  feet.  They 
are  seldom  seen.  Only  a  few  care  for  or  keep  them 
The  Splashed  or  Spangled  are  marked  very  much 
like  the  Houdans.  Few  fancy  them  and  they  are 
seldom  seen,  even  in  the  show  room.  The  Whisk- 
ered or  Muffled  Booted  Bantams  came  from  Ger- 
many to  England  about  1870.  They  had  short  legs, 
broad  saddle  and  smaller  tails  than  the  other  type 
These  were  bred  by  a  few  who  admired  them  in  their 
purity.  Some  of  very  rich  quality  were  shown  by 
Mrs.  Ricketts,  winning  in  open  competition  against 
the  others.  These  birds  winning  over  the  original 
type,  changed  the  line  of  breeding  somewhat; 
breeders  adopted  the  shorter  leg  and  higher  carriage  of  wing. 
Many  also  adopted  the  Japanese  form,  with  a  longer  leg,  thus 
preventing  the  hock  feathers  from  touching  the  ground.  This 
intermixing  of  the  heavy  form  and  short  legs  of  the  Whiskered 
variety  and  the  Japanese  type  has  so  changed  the  shape  that 
you  now  seldom  see  good  specimens  of  the  original  type  in 


White  Booted.  Why  these  changes  should  be  made  in  form 
of  these  varieties  we  can  not  understand,  while  at  the  same 
time  the  winning  Blacks  are  fashioned  after  the  original  style, 
having  more  size,  the  upright  carriage,  and  legs  long  enough 
for  the  heavy  hock  feathering. 

To  reproduce  the  best  form  and  feather  in  this  variety, 
select  as  your  breeding  birds  the  most  perfect 
specimens.  It  is  useless  to  hope  to  produce 
valuable  young  from  inferior  breeding  stock. 
Poor  specimens  have  no  value.  The  only 
real  merit  in  a  Booted  Bantam  is  superior 
quality.  If  this  is  lacking  they  are  no  better 
than  half-breeds.  The  most  perfect  specimens 
obtainable  yield  but  a  limited  number  of  really 
meritorious  chicks.  This  being  the  case,  dis- 
card all  that  fall  below  the  line  of  real  merit 
and  by  using  only  the  best,  improve  their 
quality. 

When  the  old  birds  begin  to  molt  and  the 

young  to  lose  their  chick  feathers,  great  care 

should  be  taken  to  prevent  their  foot  feathers 

from  being  broken.     About  six  weeks  prior  to 

the  time  you  wish  to  exhibit  them  they  should 

be  cooped   in  dry,  clean  quarters.     Coops  not 

much  larger  than  an  exhibition  pen  are  best. 

This  prevents  their  scratching  and  destroying 

foot  feathers.     The  floor  of  the  coop  should  be 

covered  with  dry  sand  and  should  be  cleaned 

each  day.     Never  allow  any  food  to  fall  into 

the  sand,  as  this  tempts  them  to  scratch.     If 

any  part  of  the  plumage  is  soiled  it  should  be 

washed  properly  before  sending  to  the  exhibition.     See  full 

directions  in  another  chapter  on  "Washing  for  Exhibition." 

SULTAN  BANTAMS. 

vSultan  Bantams  are  so  much  like  the  Booted  Bantams  that 


BANTAM  HKN. 


FIG.  28.— WHITE   BOOTED   BANTAMS.. 
Reproduced  from  "Poultry,"  England. 

we  will  put  them  in  this  class  for  description.  The  Sultan 
fowl  is  first  mentioned  in  the  Poultry  Book  of  Tegetmeier  as 
coming  from  Turkey  in  1854.  They  are  described  as  being 
the  Sultan,  or  Feather  Footed  White  Polish,  resembling  as 
they  do  the  White  Polish  in  many  ways,  having,  however. 
Shorter  legs  and  fuller  tail  equipment,  with  vulture  hocks  and 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


25 


leg  and  toe  feathering.  They  are  somewhat  smaller  than  the 
Polish  fowls.  The  Sultan  Bantams  are  a  Sultan  Booted  Ban- 
tam, crossed  and  reduced  by  selection;  or,  in  other  words,  a 
White  Booted  Bantam  with  a  crest  like  a  Polish  and  five  toes 
like  the  Sultan. 

Our  standard  recognizes  only  White  Booted  Bantams. 
The  Sultan  Bantam  is  not  recognized  by  us.  The  White 
Booted  Bantam  could  be  made  a  most  attractive  variety  if  care- 
fully bred.     We  should  add  the  Black  variety  to  our  list. 

In  breeding  these  birds,  mate  together  the  most  perfect 
specimens  you  can  find,  and  reduce  their  size  by  selecting  the 
smallest  each  year  for  breeders.  Always  use  white  birds  that 
have  white  beaks  and  legs.  Never  tolerate  in  your  breeding 
yards  any  other  color  than  white  beaks  and  white  legs  for 
White  Booted  Bantams,  and  you  will  soon  establish  this  as  a 
fixture  in  your  birds.  Decide  whether  you  prefer  the  old 
style  or  original  Booted  Bantam  or  the  new  style  fashioned 
after  the  Japanese  form.  When  this  question 
is  decided,  use  only  birds  of  the  desired  type. 

BRAHMA  BANTAMS.  _  » 

These  Bantams  should  be  the  counterpart  -"  1 

of  the  standard  Brahma  fowls.  The  facts  as  to 
their  production  differ  somewhat  as  they  come 
to  us  from  different  sources.  Some  claim  a 
cross  with  Brahma  fowls  aud  Japanese  Ban 
tams;  others,  an  intermixture  of  Aseel  and 
Cochin  Bantams,  while  still  others  claim  a 
direct  Brahma  cross  with  Cochin  Bantams.  If 
we  desired  to  produce  them,  we  should  prefer 
to  depend  on  the  Brahma-Cochin  Bantam 
cross.  The  Brahma  Bantams,  as  we  now  ha^e 
them,  need  to  be  improved  in  size  and  mark 
ings.  Many  of  them  have  almost  perfect 
Brahma  shape.  The  Lights  lack  in  the  pencil 
ing  of  Tiackle,  and  the  black  in  wings  and  tail 
The  Darks  are  good  in  color.  The  females 
lack  in  penciling.  The  Light  Brahma  Ban 
tams  of  the  present  have  fairly  good  Brahma  — 

combs,  shape  and  body  color.     The  under-color 
of  most  of  them  is  white;  the  neck  hackle  of 
males  striped  more  or  less  toward  the  lower 
edge,  not  much  toward  the  upper  part  of  neck; 
head  pure  white,  wings  only  partially  black,  tails  very  good  in 
color,  and  coverts  of  many  of  them  are  edged  with  white.     The 
females  show  more  and  better  color  in  both  neck  and  wings. 
Some  few  of  the  females  show-  a   tendency  toward   dark   or 
slate  in  under-color.     All  have  good  color  of   beak  and  legs 
and  plenty  of  leg  and  toe  feathering.     With  these  qualities  to 
start  with  it  is  quite  unnecessary  to  consider  how  to  produce 
them.     The  question  is,  how  shall  we  improve  them? 

In  selecting  your  breeding  birds,  have  the  darkest  male 
you  can  secure  in  point  of  wing  and  under-color  of  back  and 
shoulders.  This  will  help  to  improve  the  white  necks.  If  in 
addition  to  dark  under-color  you  can  have  a  fairly  good  neck , 
also  tail  coverts,  much  improvement  can  be  hoped  for  if  the 
females  are  fairly  good  in  these  points.  Use  the  best  colored 
females  that  it  is  possible  to  secure.  Do  not  hesitate  to  use 
one  ver\'  dark  in  under-color,  for  on  this  you  must  depend  to 
build  up  your  color  by  following  these  colors  from  year  to 
year.  Fine  Brahma  markings  can  be  produced.  The  pre- 
ceeding  is  our  opinion  as  to  the  proper  matings  to  improve 
color  of  neck,  wings  and  tails.  We  also  give  the  matings  as 
recommended  by  Mr.  W.  F.  Entwisle,  to  whom  much  credit 
for  the  production,  is  due: 

"To  breed  good  Light  Brahma  pullets,  select  as  light 
colored  a  cockerel  as  possible,  clear  in  body  color  and  saddle, 
and  only  slightly  striped  in  hackle,  with  the  darkest  hackled 
and  blackest  tailed  hens  possible  to  obtain,  with  white  backs 


and  wings.  To  breed  cockerels,  select  the  most  perfect  cock  or 
cockerel  you  can  obtain,  good  in  hackle  and  saddle,  very  full- 
feathered  and  fine  in  shape.  Put  the  bird  so  selected  with 
hens  as  white  in  wing  and  body  as  possible,  even  if  a  little 
wanting  in  color  of  hackle.  These  matings  are  not  certain 
in  their  results,  but  there  is  no  more  reliable  rule  that  can  be 
followed  by  those  of  little  experience." 

This  style  of  mating  must  produce  nice,  clear  white  birds, 
but  can  not  improve  the  black  markings  so  much  desired  by  us. 

Dark  Brahma  Bantams  should  be  a  perfect  counterpart  of 
larger  fowls  of  the  same  kind.  Those  we  have  seen  shall  be 
our  guide  in  describing  them.  The  male  bird  is  a  perfect 
Dark  Brahma  in  color,  rather  large  for  a  Bantam  and  vrith  too 
much  tail  for  a  Brahma.  The  top  color  is  clear  and  silvery, 
and  he  is  much  better  in  neck  than  the  Light  Brahma.  The 
body,  in  color,  is  fairly  good  as  to  the  shade  of  black,  but  badly 
marked  with  spots  of  white.     We  have  never  seen  one  with  a 


Fir     29 — LIGHT    ■i.ND   D\RK   BRA  IMA    BANTAMS 
Reproduced  from  "Feathered  World,"  Lojidoii. 

pure  black  breast  and  fluff,  but  the  comb,  beak,  legs  and  leg 
and  toe  feathering  in  both  male  and  female  are  very  good. 
The  females  are  fair  as  to  color;  penciling  very  uneven  and 
indistinct;  tails  oversized,  and  the  birds  themselves  larger 
than  the  Light  Brahma  Bantams.  To  bring  this  variety  within 
bounds  calls  for  careful  study  in  mating  them. 

Select  the  smallest  specimens  of  both  males  and  females 
which  you  can  secure;  use  only  females  that  show  a  tendency 
to  penciling  in  their  plumage,  and  males  that  are  very  clear  in 
top  color.  If  this  mating  shows  improvement  in  the  plumage 
of  the  female  select  the  best  of  them  to  breed  back  to  the  sire, 
retaining  some  of  the  males  to  breed  with  the  females  of  the 
next  cross.  In  this  way  you  can  build  up  your  blood  lines. 
Never  breed  brother  and  sister  together.  By  following  this 
rule  for  three  or  four  seasons  good  results  must  be  the  outcome. 
The  Darks  have  better  general  markings  to  start  with  at  the 
present  time  than  the  Lights.  For  this  reason  better  results 
may  be  expected  with  them  at  an  earlier  day  than  with  the 
others.  Both  will  demand  patience  and  proper  handling  to 
make  them  perfect  Brahmas. 

BUFF  BRAHMA  BANTAMS  ARE  AN  AMERICAN 
PRODUCTION. 

Below  are  the  facts  as  given  by  Mr.  F.  A.  Roppleye,  of 
Farmers,  N.  Y.:  He  secured  from  Mr.  Putnam,  of  West  Sut- 
ton, Mass.,  some  cross-bred  Bantams,  the  result  of  a  cross  with 
Golden  Sebrights  and  Buff  Cochin  Bantams,  some   of  them 


26 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


almost  perfect  in  Brahma  markings.  The  best  of  these  females 
he  bred  with  one  of  his  standard  sized  Buff  Brahma  males  and 
produced  fine  specimens  of  about  three  pounds  weight.  These 
were  crossed  with  some  birds  produced  by  crossing  Sebrights, 
Japanese,  Silkies  and  Buff  Cochin  Bantams.  These  crosses 
produced  better  Pea  Combs  and  Brahma  markings  than  the 
other.  The  offspring  of  these  crosses  have  been  improved  by 
selecting  the  most  perfect  specimens  and  breeding  them 
together  until  the  proper  size  and  marking  for  a  Buff  Brahma 
Bantam  is  his  reward. 

The  following  notes  on  Brahma  Bantams  have  been  fur- 
nished by  Mr.   Rowland  Butterworth,  Pownall   Hall   Estate, 


PIG.  30. — DARK  BRAHMA  BANTAM  COCK  SULTAN. 
Bred  by  Mr.  Butterworth. 

Wilmslow,  Cheshire,  England,  who  is  now  the  leading  authority- 
on  Brahma  Bantams 

"Brahma  Bantams  are  increasing  in  popularity  with 
marked  rapidity,  and  in  consequence  many  of  our  leading 
shows  have  suffered  considerably  with  some  of  the  classes,  for 
other  varieties  than  games,  as  one  of  our  leading  papers  has 
already  stated. 

"We  have  to  thank  the  late  Mr.  W.  F.  Entwisle,  of  Wake- 
field, for  their  first  introduction,  which  I  believe  was  in  the 
year  188,S.  Other  strains  have  made  their  appearance,  but  I 
believe  that  he  was  the  first  to  exhibit  this  variety.  In  manu- 
facturing them,  other  breeds  were  introduced  and  it  will  be 
understood  that  this  was  a  necessity.  One  could  not  expect 
to  get  a  cross  direct  from  a  large  Brahma  and,  say,  a  Pekin 
Bantam.  Among  these  birds  introduced  were  the  Grey  Aseel 
and  the  Booted  Bantam.  The  latter  I  consider  was  a  mistake 
and  one  that  gives  Brahma  Bantam  breeders  considerable 
trouble  to  this  day.  Any  breeder  of  the  Booted  Bantams  will 
have  noticed  the  great  prepotency  of  this  variety,  with  his  legs 
close  together,  vulture  hocked,  and  worse  still,  a  space  with- 
out feathers  on  the  shanks  just  under  the  hock.  I  draw  atten- 
tion to  this  fact  for  the  guidance  of  our  new  fanciers,  as  traces 


of  this  Booted  Bantam  blood  appears  in  almost  every  hatch 
although  the  parents  may  not  show  any  signs  of  these  defects. 
It  is  also  a  curious  thing  that  those  defects  are  much  more 
strongly  marked  in  the  cockerels  than  in  the  pullets. 

"I  did  not  commence  to  manufacture  my  strain  of  Dark 
Brahmas  until  1884.  The  cockerel  that  I  commenced  with 
was  one  of  a  well  known  large  strain.  He  was  hatched  late 
in  the  season  and  reared  on  foods  heavy  in  flesh  formers,  but 
deficient  in  bone  forming  material.  He  was  quite  a  great  su.;- 
cess  and  weighed  six  and  one-half  pounds  when  fully  ma- 
tured. The  others  from  the  same  lot  were  much  larger,  coarse 
in  bone  and  some  nearly  double  his  weight.  I  am  not  going 
to  tell  you  what  breed  of  hen  I  mated  with  him,  but  I  man- 
aged to  get  eighteen  chickens  from  the  pair.  The  first  season, 
I  had  not  a  single  gray  one  amongst  them,  but  there  were  two 
pullets  excellent  in  shape,  good  foot  feathers  and  excellent 
Brahma  heads  and  combs.  In  color  they  were  something  like 
very  bad  colored  Light  Brahmas  with  a  fair  amount  of  brown 
in  them.  I  mated  these  two  with  the  six  and  one- half  pound 
cock,  and  the  next  season  every  chick  hatched  was  a  good 
gray  color,  but  only  three  showed  much  sign  of  penciling. 
However,  with  careful  selection,  always  choosing  the  pullets 
with  the  finest  bone,  I  managed  to  get  one  fit  for  exhibition  in 
-  1889.  I  was  very  proud  of  her.  She  weighed  thirty-two  ounces 
when  in  full  feather.  I  won  a  first  prize  with  her  in  a  mixed 
class,  the  first  time  I  exhibited  her.  I  then  had  several  suc- 
cessful seasons  with  this  variety,  and  in  1893  I  bred  what  I 
believe  to  be  (and  it  was  also  the  opinion  of  many  of  our  best 
judges)  the  most  perfect  Dark  Brahma  Bantam  ever  exhibited, 
"Pownall  Pride."  An  excellent  portrait  of  this  bird  appears 
in  "Entwisle's  Bantams,"  drawn  by  our  popular  poultry  artist, 
Mr.  Ludlow.  I  still  have  this  little  bird  and  she  is  in  the  best 
possible  health  and  weighs  under  20  ounces  now.  Although 
a  fat  old  hen  she  won  1st  Crystal  Palace  and  cup  Fairfield  in 
1893,  and  a  large  number  of  prizes  the  following  two  seasons 
at  our  leading  shows. 

"The  great  difficulty  in  breeding  Dark  Brahma  Bantams  is 
to  get  hard  feather,  so  many  of  the  chickens  coming  soft  and 
satiny,  and  such  quality  of  feathers  seldom  carries  much 
penciling.  I  say  seldom,  as  I  have  had  one  or  two  specimens 
with  this  satiny  surface  that  carried  remarkable  penciling,  but 
it  is  the  exception  and  not  the  rule,  and  such  birds  are  not  to 
be  relied  upon  in  the  breeding  pens.  In  breeding  Brahma 
Bantams  it  is  necessary  to  mate  up  separate  pens  for  cockerels 
and  pullets,  and  you  can  not  expect  first-class  pullets  however 
good  in  penciling  your  hens  are,  from  a  cock  perfect  in  his 
breast  and  fluff,  nor  will  you  get  good  cockerels  from  a  perfect 
colored  cock  and  heavily  laced  hens.  The  mating  is  the  same 
required  in  the  larger  varieties,  with  the  exception  that  the 
neck  and  legs  should  be  shorter  in  proportion  than  those 
accepted  in  the  larger  variety.  This  is  most  important,  as  it 
gives  the  Bantam  "make-up"  necessary-  for  the  show  pens. 

The  Dark  Brahma  Bantam  cock  should  have  head  feathers 
of  good,  clear  white,  distinctly  striped  with  black,  the  stripes 
getting  wider  down  to  the  shoulders  and  back.  The  back  and 
wing-bow  should  be  clear  white,  well  striped  with  black,  and 
the  stripes  increasing  in  width  on  the  tail  coverts.  The  breast, 
thigh,  fluff,  shank  and  foot  feathers  should  be  as  black  as 
possible.  The  tail  is  black,  but  a  narrow  white  edge  to  the 
sickles  is  considered  a  point  in  their  favor  by  many  judges. 
The  wing-butts  and  shoulders  are  black;  wing-bars,  tail 
coverts  and  side  sickles,  beetle  green;  shanks  as  yellow  as 
possible,  generally  a  dusky  yellow;  beak,  horn-colored;  comb, 
wattles  and  lobes,  bright  red;  the  comb  small  and  triple;  ej-es, 
red.  Hen,  white  on  head  and  evenly  striped  with  rich  black 
on  her  hackle.  The  tail  should  be  black,  slightly  marked 
with  gray,  the  rest  of  the  body  one  shade  of  slate  gray,  wit  i 
dark,  almost  black,  pencilings.  There  are  often  other  shades 
of  gray  in  the  winners,  but  the  slate  gray  birds  I  find  retain 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


27.: 


their  colors  longer  than  those  with  light  ground  color.  The 
Brahma  Bantam  is  quite  distinct  from  the  Cochin,  and  must 
be  active,  lively  and  spirited. 

LIGHT  BRAHMA  BANTAMS. 

"AVe  owe  this  introduction  into  our  poultry  yards  to  the 
same  source  as  the  Darks,  as  they  were  manufactured  at  the 
same  time,  and  I  know  of  no  other  strain  than  the  ones  in 
England,  although  having  been  in  the  hands.of  various  breeders 
for  some  years,  who  having  different  ideas  as  to  what  the^- 
should  be,  have  changed  them  so  much  that  they  now  look 
like  distinct  strains  w-heu  they  meet  at  the  exhibitions.  Light 
Brahma  Bantams  are  much  easier  to  breed  than  the  Dark, 
although  not  so  taking  to  the  e3'e  of  man}'  fanciers.  The}'  are 
certainly  easier  to  meet  with,  as  the  Darks  are  now  very  scarce 
indeed.  Light  Brahma  Bantams  should  be  exact  copies  of 
their  larger  brothers  and  sisters  in  miniature,  with  the  excep- 
tion that  they  should  be  shorter  in  leg  and  neck.  These  points 
are  of  great  importance,  as  they  give  the  Bantam  'make-up' 
required. 

"In  mating  for  show  cockerels  a  perfect  colored  show- 
cockerel  very  sharp  and  dense  in  his  hackle  markings,  mated 
with  a  hen  very  pure  in  her  white  and  in  hackle  rather  defi- 
cient in  marking  for  the  show  pen,  will  breed  what  }'OU  require. 

"For  the  production  of  show  pullets  you  require  a  perfect 
colored  hen  very  sharp  and  intensely  black  in  her  hackle 
striping,  mated  with  a  cockerel  lightlj'  striped  in  hackle  and 
a  good,  clear  white.  If  you  follow  this  advice  you  will  get 
both  cockerels  and  pullets  that  are  good,  typical  specimens  in 
color. 

"The  Light  Brahma  Bantam  cock  should  have  a  pure 
white  head,  a  pure  white  hackle,  the  lower  part  distincth- 
striped  with  black,  the  breast,  shoulders,  wing,  back  and 
thighs  pure  white.  The  fluff  is  white,  but  often  the  under  fluff 
is  gray,  and  such  specimens  are  very  useful  in  the  breeding 
pen  when  the  hackles  are  growing  weak  in  striping.  The  sad- 
dle is  generally  slightly  striped  but  this  should  only  be  lightly 
marked,  and  not  too  much  of  it.  The  primaries  and  seconda- 
ries should  show  black  on  their  inside  when  the  wing  is 
opened.  The  outer  feathers  of  the  tail  should  be  slightly 
edged  with  white  and  it  is  in  the  bird's  favor  if  the  sickles  are 
also  laced  with  white.  The  toes,  shanks  and  .scales  should  be 
bright  yellow  or  orange,  also  the  beak. 

"The  hen  should  have  a  pure  white  head  and  very  darkly 
striped  hackle;  breast,  thighs,  wings  and  body  all  pure  white, 
the  primaries  and  secondaries  showing  black,  like  the  cock, 
the  tail  black,  with  white  lacing  or  edging  on  the  upper  feath- 
ers. The  strongest  birds  have  always  bright  red  eyes  and  are 
to  be  preferred  to  the  yellow-eyed  ones."  R.  B. 

Just  how  to  bring  the  Dark  Brahma  Bantams  to  the  highest 
perfection  of  color  and  penciling  is  the  most  important  point. 
They,  like  the  Partridge  Cochin  Bantam,  will  be  valued  in 
proportion  to  their  high  qualities  of  color  and  fine  finish  of 
penciling.  The  fine  gray  color  of  the  Dark  Brahma  female  and 
the  delicate  dark  penciling  must  be  most  perfect  in  these  Ban- 
tams or  else  they  are  of  no  value.  We  lay  before  our  readers  the 
advice  of  experts  who  have  shown  their  abilitj-  to  successful!}' 
handle  the  large  specimens.  Below  are  the  words  of  the  time- 
honored  Mr.  Philander  Williams,  who  donates  his  experience 
for  our  use. 

Taunton,  M.\s.s.,  Sept.  24,  1H97. 
Mr.   T.  F.  McGrew: 

In  regard  to  Dark  Brahma  Bantams,  I  would  saj-,  I  know- 
nothing.  Of  course,  they  are  produced  from  a  cross  of  some 
varieties  and  it  is  evident  that  they  have  not  been  bred  long 
enough  to  have  the  color  established.  I  see  no  way  to  get  the 
color,  but  to  breed  them  together  and  then  select  each  year 
such  specimens  as  you  think  will  improve  the  color.  I  think 
the  proper  way  to  breed  Dark  Bantams  is  by  a  double  mating 


and  breeding  in,  although  I  ne-ver  did  this.  Thereason,  I  will 
tell  you  further  on.  I  always  have  mated  to  breed  nicely 
penciled  pullets.  I  have  always  tried  to  have  a  nicely  striped 
hackle  and  saddle  on  the  male,  but  prefer  him  mottled  con- 
siderably on  breast  and  fluff.  You  will  remember  when  the 
females  were  quite  brown,  but  now  you  see  quite  often  a  nice 
.silver  gray  hen  with  scarcely  any  brown,  and  I  believe  this 
has  been  brought  about  by  light  colored  males  and  breeding 
in.  I  never  have  dared  buy  a  male  because  I  did  not  know 
liis  breeding,  and  unless  you  do  know  how  a  male  v/as  bred  he 
probably  would  spoil  the  color  of  your  females.  ■    .  ■ 

I  give  you  a  little  experience.  Last  season  I  found  my 
males  had  poor  hackles  and  saddles,  .so  much  so  that  I  was 
compelled  to  buy  a  male.  I  mated  him,  but  you  may  be  sure 
I  had  other  matings  of  my  old  stock.  I  did  not  expect  to 
get  any  well  penciled  pullets  from  the  new  cockerel  and  I 
was  not  disappointed.  Cockerels  are  good,  and  an  improve- 
ment, but  the  pullets  are  way  off.  Now,  I  do  not  care  what 
the  breeder  says  about  the  breeding  of  the  cockerel,  and  I  did 
not  ask  him  a  word.  I  know  he  was  not  bred  out  of  nicely 
penciled  females.  But  you  take  this  cock  (now)  and  mate  him 
with  nice  shaped  females  with  little  or  no  penciling  and  you 
will  get  splendid  cockerels.  I  said  I  never  dared  mate  to 
breed  cockerels,  because  they  would  be  good  for  nothing  as 
breeders  and  one  might  be  tempted  to  breed  them  because  they 
would  be  so  handsome,  and  thus  lose  years  in  breeding  pencil- 
ing in  females.  I  see  no  way  for  you  to  do  only  to  breed  the 
Dark  Brahma  Bantam  and  select  each  year  the  lightest  colored 
cockerels  and,  what  I  call,  work  them  up.  You  can  do  it,  but 
it  will  take  time.  Partridge  Cochins  are  the  same  as  Dark 
Brahmas  in  breeding.  Philander  Williams. 

MORE  ABOUT  DARK  BRAHMA  BANTAMS. 

Waltham,  Mass.,  Sept.  24,  1897. 
Mr.  T.  F.  McGrew: 

Yours  of  the  18th  at  hand,  asking  me  how  I  would  proceed 
to  bring  Dark  Brahma  Bantams  to  as  fine  color  and  markings 
as  shown  in  my  best  specimens  of  standard  Dark  Brahmas.  In 
reply  I  must  say  that  I  would  never  expect  to  accomplish  that 
while  at  the  same  time  I  was  trying  to  dwarf  them  in  size  to 
Bantams.  I  have  had  twenty  years  of  experience  in  breeding 
Dark  Brahmas  exclusively.  I  have  tried  many  experiments 
and  made  careful  note  of  the  successes  and  failures,  not  only 
my  own,  but  those  of  others.  Long  ago  I  discovered  that 
quite  as  much  depends  on  the  care  and  feeding,  and  locality 
where  they  are  grown,  as  on  the  stock  they  are  from.  I  have 
had  birds  raised  in  different  localities,  all  from  eggs  from  my 
ver}'  best  hens,  but  to  see  them  in  the  fall  one  would  suppose 
them  from  as  many  different  strains.  Those  raised  on  poor 
soil  without  plentj'  of  shade,  and  perhaps  poorly  fed,  would 
be  a  sorry  lot,  not  one  in  a  dozen  that  I  would  not  be  ashamed 
to  have  seen  in  my  own  yards;  while  another  lot  of  the  same 
age  would  have  a  fair  amount  of  fine  specimens. 

Every  year  I  have  raised  tw-o  or  three  dozen  at  home, 
where  they  have  had  the  best  care  I  could  give  them,  and 
among  these  few  I  have  always  found  my  best  birds.  It  seems 
strange,  but  it  has  always  been  my  experience  that  whenever 
chicks  are  stunted  they  have  invariablybeen  bad  in  shape 
and  worse  in  color.  Hence  I  say  I  would  never  expect  to  get 
such  color  on  birds  that  have  been  hatched  very  late  and  starved 
to  make  them  small,  as  I  would  on  birds  encouraged  from 
the  egg  to  make  strong,  vigorous  specimens.  The  same  care 
and  feed  that  make  flesh  make  feathers.  I  have  never 
raised  a  bird  that  was  a  cripple  or  stunted  in  size,  that  was 
good  in  plumage.  If  you  succeed  in  establishing  a  strain  of 
Dark  Brahma  Bantams  that  are  as  fine  in  color  and  markings 
as  is  often  seen  in  the  standard  Dark  Brahmas,  you  will  have 
accomplished  a  great  feat,  and  will  be  entitled  to  your  reward. 
I  appreciate  your  ambition.  H,  A.  MANSFIELD. . 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


DOUBLE  MATING. 

NiSKAYUNA,  N.  v.,  Sept.  28,  1897. 
Mr.  T.  F.  McGrew: 
^  In  order  to  mate  for  pullets  I  take  a  mottled  breasted  cock 

or  cockerel  with  hens  or  pullets.  This  cock  must  have  a  good 
silvei  hackle,  good  dark  under-color,  and  no  red  in  wings. 
For  cocks  I  take  a  dark  breasted  cock  or  cockerel,  silver 
hackle,  good  under-color,  no  red  in  wings  and  free  from  white 
feathers  in  the  toes  and  legs  when  they  can  be  so  obtained. 
For  pullets  you  want  the  hens  rather  dark.  These  are  the 
points  I  use.  Hoping  this  will  do  you  some  good,  I  remain, 
Yours  truly,  John  H.  Warner. 

PEKIN  OR  COCHIN  BANTAMS. 

The  Five  Varieties  Considered— What  Can  be  Made  of  Them. 

The  five  varieties  of  Cochin  Bantams  are  the  most  attract- 
ive of  all  Bantam  breeds.  Their  beautiful  form  and  colors, 
.  and  hardy  constitution  make  them  the  most  desirable  as  a 
general  purpose  Bantam,  giving  them  a  commercial  value,  as 
well  as  fancy.  They  are  very  prolific  layers  of  rich,  high 
flavored  eggs,  and  their  plump  little  bodies  make  either  a 
broiler  or  a  pheasant,  when  needed  for  special  occasions. 

One   of  the   marked   differences  is  the  deep  or  reddish 
color  of  the  male  as  compared  to  the  female  Buff  Cochin  Ban- 
tam.    This  was  the  natural  color  as  they  came  from  China. 
The  proper  way  to  breed  them  to  conform  with  their  natural 
condition    is    red    males    to    the 
lighter    colored     females.      This 
kind  of  mating  reproduced  of  their 
kind. 

The    red    color   of   the    male 
should     not    be     encouraged    by 
preference;  rather  should  a  good, 
sound  buff  in  both  male  and  female 
have  the   favored   place.     If   the 
standard  would  demand  small  size 
in  all  varieties,  a  pure  buff,  black, 
white,    or    partridge  color,    as   it 
may  be,  with  no  foreign  color  in 
either,   we   would    soon   have  all 
varieties  conforming  to  one  uni- 
form standard  for  shape  by  adopting  a  proper  form  and  holding 
to  it.     The  size  and  weight  of  Pekins,  as  in  all  Bantams,  should 
be  about  one-fifth  of  the  size  and  weight  of  the  large  or  stand- 
ard breed  of  the  same  variety.     We  believe  this  is  the  English 
rule  on  all  Bantams,  and  it  might  be  a  good  rule  for  us  to 
follow.     Do  not,  however,  for  one  moment  fall  into  the  grave 
error  of  thinking  that  the  smaller  the  better  for  all  Bantams. 
This  has  gone  too  far  already  with  some  varieties.     All  Ban- 
tams should  be  as  small  as  the  law  of  nature  will  allow  and 
still  maintain  their  form  and  vigor.     When  below  this  they 
should  be  discredited  for  undersize  and  loss  of  constitution. 

Cochin  Bantams  are  troubled  with  two  grave  faults,  bad 
shaped  backs,  and  too  long  legs.  These  faults  seem  to  be  more 
serious  in  the  Buff  than  in  the  others. 

We  must  not  expect  to  remedy  this  in  a  j-ear's  time,  but 
all  should  contend  for  better  form,  feathers  and  color. 

The  standard  calls  for  the  same  general  form  as  for  stand- 
ard Cochins,  but  it  must  be  remembered  that  the  tail  formation 
of  Pekins  is  quite  different  from  their  larger  cousins;  so  this 
alone  must  change  their  form  somewhat.  Figures  30  and  31  show 
what  might  be  considered  proper  form  from  side  and  rear  views 
of  the  male. 

To  be  good  Cochin  Bantams  they  must  be  miniatures  of 
standard  Cochins.  The  neck  of  the  Pekin  should  be  short  and 
full,  in  fact,  the  neck  of  the  cock  bird  should  be  very  full  and 
heavy  looking,  see  Fig.  30.  The  back  should  widen  from  front 
to  rear,  saddle  very  full.     The  cushion  and  saddle  of  a  good 


Pekin  cock  should  rise  from  between  his  shoulders  and  not  just 
forward  of  the  tail  proper,  as  is  so  often  seen.  The  tail  should 
be  very  full  and  surrounded  with  abundant  saddle  feathers  and 
tail  coverts  with  but  few  hard  quills.  The  tail  should  help  to 
add  shape  to  both  back  and  saddle.  The  fluff  under  the  saddle 
and  tail  should  be  very  full.  This  formation  makes  the  most 
perfect  and  handsome  looking  bird. 
This  is  the  natural  tail  formation  for 
the  Pekin,  see  Fig.  31. 

The  legs  of  the  Pekin  should  be 
short,  in  fact,  a  mature  cock  bird 
when  well  feathered,  should  appear 
as  if  his  body  almost  touched  the 
ground.  To  have  this  form  his  body 
must  be  set  low  between  the  legs,  and 
the  fluff  must  be  quite  abundant;  this 
also  widens  out  his  legs  and  adds  ^''S- ^^.-Rear  view  of  Male. 
to  their  breadth.  Always  remember,  however,  that  a  Cochin 
Bantam  never  reaches  its  full  form  under  sixteen  or  eighteen 
months,  and  is  often  two  years  old  before  it  is  fully  developed. 
Quite  often  this  is  forgotten,  and  we  expect  to  see  a  matured 
form  on  a  young  specimen. 

The  female  must  also  conform  to  the  description  of  a 
standard  Cochin.  Head,  neck  and  body  formation,  should  be 
a  miniature  Cochin.  The  divided  back  so  often  seen,  more 
especially  in  Buffs,  should  be  guarded  against;  this  is  from 
lack  of  cushion  and  a  narrow  tail.  The  narrow  or  flat  tail 
grows  up  between  the  wings,  unsupported  by  any  cushion,  and 
gives  the  divided  form  of  back,  which  is  the  very  worst  defect 
a  Cochin  Bantam  can  have,  and  should  be  stamped  out  as  soon 
as  possible.  Do  not  hope  to  do  this  in  a  day,  for  it  may  take 
years  to  fully  accomplish  it,  as  it  did  in  the  standard  varieties, 
and  even  now  it  is  often  seen  in  them. 

The  cushion  should  begin  just  back  of  her  shoulders  and 
sweep  back  about  the  tail  as  in  a  well  formed  Cochin  pullet  ot 
the  larger  variety.  The  Pekin's  tail  being  composed  of  flex- 
ible or  soft  feathers  adds  much  to  the  beauty  of  a  proper  back 
and  cushion,  see  Fig.  32.  The  tendency  at  this  time  is  to  im- 
prove their  form  and  color  by  crossing  with  the  larger  Cochins, 
and  that  is  changing  the  tail  formation  to  conform  more  to 
the  larger  Cochins. 

Fig.  32  furnishes  the  rear  view  of  the  proper  formation — 
broad,  full  and  well  feathered  with  good  fluff  almost  to  the 
ground.  This  is  a  description  of  a  fully  developed  hen.  Do 
not  hope  for  this  just  yet  in  a  pullet.  Let  it  be  your  aim  to 
produce  this  form  and  feather,  if  possible,  on  a  pullet,  but 
feel  satisfied  when  you  have  it  in  a  moderate  degree,  for  the 
female,  like  the  male,  continues  to  improve  in  form  and  feather 
each  year,  and  never  fully  develops  until  the  second  year. 

The  combs   of  many   of  our   Cochin  Bantams  are  much 
larger  than  their  size  and  beauty  demand.     This  might  be  im- 
proved, and  also  the  shape  of  the  comb.     No  reason  can  be 
advanced  for  a  small  Cochin  cock  hav- 
ing a  comb  almost   as   large  as  a  Leg- 
horn's.    All  these  points  only  need  our 
close  attention  to  be  soon  corrected. 

The  following  points  should  be 
always  remembered  in  breeding  Cochin 
Bantams:  The  neck  should  be  short  and 
full,  neatly  arched;  the  body  should  lean 
slightly  forward,  and  the  top  of  the  tailpj  33  _ 
be  almost  as  high  as  the  top  of  the  head 
on  the  male.  The  head  should  not  be  held  high  above  the  body 
on  a  long,  slim  neck  overlooking  a  slim,  flat  tail;  all  these 
points  must  be  considered  in  the  producing  of  a  perfect 
Cochin  Bantam. 

The  Cochin  Bantams  came  from  Pekin,  China,  to  England 
in  1860.  The  first  that  came  were  Buffs.  For  many  years  no 
other  color  was  known,  and  then  came  the  Blacks.     At  the 


-Rear  view  of  Hen . 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


2g 


time  of  the  coming  of  the  Blacks  the  original  Buff  stock  was 
almost  run  out  by  inbreeding.  They  were  improved  by  cross- 
ing them  with  White  Booted  Bantams.    This  cross  aggravated 


"MltABLC  POUL   K^  JOURNAL 

FIG.  34. — BUFF   COCHIN    B.\NTAMS. 

the  tendency  toward  extended  hocks  that  still  exists  in  this 
variety.  These  crosses  produced  the  foundation  of  the  Cuckoo 
Pekin  stock,  afterwards  built  up  with  birds  of  the  same  mark- 
ings from  China.  The  early  Black  Pekin  males  were  crossed 
upon  the  Buffs,  and  this  cross  produced  some  cock- 
erels very  near  Partridge  color.  The  cross  of  the 
White  Booted  Bantams  on  the  Buffs  also  gave  the 
foundation  for  the  Whites.  We  give  our  English 
brothers  the  credit  of  building  up  the  five  colors  of 
Cochin  Bantams.  We  of  this  side  of  the  world  have 
made  several  efforts  to  produce  by  crossing  and 
reducing  some  Partridge  Pekins,  but  up  to  this  time 
nothing  of  much  value  has  resulted  from  our  efforts 
Many  have  introduced  standard  Cochin  blood  into 
the  Buff  Pekins  with  some  benefit.  No  one  has,  to 
our  knowledge,  produced  either  Partridge  or  Cuckoo 
colored  birds  of  high  quality  in  this  country.  Some 
are  now  being  bred  and  we  hope  to  see  them  in  the 
show  room. 

BUFF  COCHIN  BANTAMS. 
Buff  Cochin  Bantams,  as  stated  by  the  best  Eng- 
lish authority,  were  first  bred  to  some  extent  by  Mr 
Kenick,  of  Dorking,  who  bred  in  and  in  from  the 
original  importation  for  almost  twenty  years,  until 
size    and   constitution  were    gone.     Others   secured 
some  of  the  same  stock  from  him  and  introduced  new 
blood  by  importation  and  a  cross,  as  above  stated, 
with  the  White  Booted,  building  up  their  constitu-  " 
tion.     Some  also  introduced  Nankin  Bantam  blood 
This  cross  did  not  harm  the  color  of  feather  to  anv 
great  extent,  but  it  darkened  their  legs  and    made 
them  longer,  also  reduced  the  leg  and  toe  feathering 
and  spoiled  their  shape  and  form  of    back,  breast 
and  tail.     Evidently  the  first  that  came  to  this  coun- 
try were  tainted  with  the  Nankin  blood,  for  a  large 
per  cent  of  them  had  bad  colored  legs  and  scant  leg  and  toe 
feathering.     Those  produced  here  of  good  form  are  descend- 
ants of  a  cross  with  the   standard  Cochins  and  reduced  by 
oiiossing  with  smaller_specimens. 


Mr.  Entwisleof  England,  who  purchased  some  stock  from 
country  writes  of  them  as  follows:  "One  great  point  we 
e  most  highly,  and  we  think  our  English  breeders  will  not 
be  long  in  recognizing,  is  the  sound,  even  color 
insisted  upon  by  the  Americans.  They  say: 
'A  BuS  must  be  a  buff,  perfectly  free  from  any 
dark  shade  in  fluff  or  fleece  of  feather,  buff 
under  the  wing  when  expanded,  buff  in  all 
the  tail  and  foot  feathers.'  A  bronze  tail  is 
considered  a  blemish,  and  the  Americans  do 
not  allow  such  faults  to  be  hidden  or  disguised 
by  pulling  out  the  faulty  feathers."  These 
words  are  quite  complimentary  to  our  ability 
to  breed  good  color  and  should  be  strictly  ad- 
hered to.  If  all  judges  will  continue  to  refuse 
to  place  awards  on  coops  containing  specimens 
that  plainly  show  evidence  of  being  plucked, 
whether  Bantams  or  any  other  kind  of  fowls, 
in  a  very  short  time  none  of  this  kind  would 
appear,  and  all  would  buy  or  breed  the  right  or 
standard  forms  and  colors. 

We  will  refer  to  a  few  points  of  difference 
between  our  standard  and  the  English.  Plum- 
age of  Cochin  Bantams  with  them  is  so  de- 
scribed: "Very  abundant,  long  and  quite  soft; 
the  fluff  which  grows  between  the  saddle  and 
thighs  so  full  as  to  hide  the  latter;  weight, 
thirty-two  to  thirty-six  ounces."  The  cut  of 
an  English  cock  will  illustrate  this.  This 
feather  formation  and  full  breast  make  them  look  very  short  of 
leg.  Their  demand  for  general  shape  and  carriage  is  as  follows: 
"Broad,  deep,  plump  and  well  rounded;  the  carriage  bold, 
rather  forward,  but  low,  the  head  being  not  much  higher  than 


FIG.  35. — AN   ENGLISH    BUFF   COCHIN    COCK. 

the  tail."  The  weights  are  in  the  proportion  demanded  for 
all  Bantams,  one-fifth  of  the  regular  Cochin.  This  is  the  same 
in  our  standard  for  females,  but  for  males  we  demand  lesa 
weight  than  one-fifth. 


30 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


■  Nature  has  declared  for  the  Buff  Cochin  Bantams  in  their 
natural  state  that  the  males  shall  be  of  richer  and  darker  color 
than  the  females.  When  mated,  the  females,  if  several  shades 
lighter  color  than  the  male,  will  produce,  females  of  their 
own  color  and  males  like  the  sire.  A  light  colored  male  bred 
to  females  of  his  own  color  produces  better  males  than  females. 
The  latter  will  be  much  paler  of  color  than  the  mothers.  This 
has  been  overcome  somewhat  bj'  the  cross  with  the  large 
Cochins. 

[The  color  of  the  Buff  Pekiu,  whether  male  or  female,  must 
be  pure  and  true,  whether  of  a  light  or  dark  shade.  We  began 
two  years  ago  to  work  for  the  proper  buff  shade  for  both  males 
and  females,  using  a  light  colored  male  with  a  hen  whose 
breast  color  was  the  same  shade  as  the  breast  of  the  male. 
Two  cockerels  from  this  mating  won  first  and  second  at  New 
York  in  January,  1897.  One  of  the  same  lot  headed  first  pen 
at  the  same  show.  In  getting  this  color  we  have  lost  some  in 
the  color  of  females,  also  in  under-color  of  both  male  and 
female.  This  year,  1897,  we  have  used  these  males  on  the 
best  colored  females  and  feel  satisfied  with  the  result,  as  the 
young  stock  shows  much  improvement,  many  of  the  males 
being  an  even  golden  buff  throughout,  and  the  females  are 
much  better  than  last  season. 


BLACK  COCHIN  BANTAMS 
Black  Cochin  Bantams  come  next  to  the  Butfs  and  here 
we  shall  again  quote  from  Mr  W  F  B,ntv\isle,  the  noted 
English  writer,  whose  words  far  exceed  our  ability  in  describing 
them.  He  writes  as  follows:  "In  Black  Cochin  Bantams, 
color  of  feather  and  brilliancy  of  sheen  very  properly  count 
highly,  quite  as  much  so  as  color  does  in  the  Buffs.  The 
desired  color  is  one  of  uniform,  lustrous  beetle  green,  as  seen 
in  the  Laugshan  and  Black  Hamburgs  to  the  greatest  perfection. 
The  under  fluff  should  be  l)lack  down  to  the  skin,  but  it  is 
very  rare  that  we  can  find  a  bird  perfect  in  this  respect.  All 
the  points  of  head,  face,  wattles  and  ear-lobes  are  the  same  as 
in  all  other  Cochins,  bright  red,  neat,  smooth  and  even.  The 
eye  in  the  Black  Cochin  varies  more  than  in  auy  other  variety, 
some  being  very  dark  brown.  This  we  think  as  grave  a  fault 
as  a  white  or  pearl  eye.  We  think  the  eye  of  the  Black  Cochin 
should  be  red.  In  breeding  Blacks,  it  has  often  been  noticed 
that  it  is  very  difficult  to  ol)tuin  the  most  perfectly  colored 
cockerels  and  pullets  from  one  pair  of  birds,  the  rule  being 
that  all  the  most  brilliant  colored  pullets'  brothers  have  more 
-.  or  jess-  red  feathers  in  their  hackles,  backs  or  saddles;  whereas, 
all  the  soundest  and  best  Black  cockerels'  sisters  are  wanting 
in  luster  or  sheen,  and  look  quite  inferior  in  color  to  the 
pullets  bred  the  other  way. 


"Where  there  is  ample  room  for  the  purpose,"  Mr.  Ent- 
wisle  tells  us,  "even  in  starting  from  one  common  parentage, 
two  distinct  strains  should  be  built  up,  the  one  for  producing 
cockerels  free  from  red  or  straw  colored  feathers,  and  using 
for  this  purpose  only  the  deadest  black  pullets  or  hens  mated 
with  a  sound  black  cock,  and  avoiding  the  more  lustrous  hens 
or  pullets. 

"And,  on  the  other  hand,  we  should  select  the  most 
lustrous,  beetle  green  winged  and  breasted  cock,  however 
much  red  he  shows  in  neck,  back  or  wing,  and  mate  him  with 
the  most  brilliantly  colored  hens  or  pullets,  provided  always 
that  other  essential  points  were  sufficiently  in  evidence." 
(The  writer  has  demonstr.ited  to  his  own  satisfaction  that 
good  colored  males  and  female:^  can  be  produced  from  the  same 
inatings  when  good  colors  only  are  used.  With  us  in  America, 
our  motto  is  good  color,  surface  and  under-color.  This  rule, 
properly  followed,  the  desired  end  will  be  gained.) 

The  proper  handling  of  all  Black  fowls  depends  largely 
upon  the  true  color  of  the  male.  If  the  male  bird  is  a  cock 
bird  of  true  color  the  chances  are  that  a  large  per  cent  of 
his  chicks  will  be  true  to  color.  In  selecting  breeding  stock 
of  Black  Cochin  Bantams  go  down  to  the  very  skin  in  neck, 
back  and  breast  feathers;  also  look  well  to_ color  of  wings  at 
the  very  point  where  they  come  from  the  flesh. 
If  the  color  is  dark  clear  to  the  skin  it  can  be  de- 
pended upon.  No  strain  of  black  fowds  ever  pro- 
duced all  of  its  chicks  pure  black.  Some  produce 
quite  a  large  proportion  of  pure  black  females, 
y  but  few  produce  true  colored  males,  and  these  in 

]§  turn  produce  but  a  small  per  cent  that  are  perfect 

p^  in  color.     This  can  be  improved  year  by  year  if 

'  only  cock  birds  of  the  truest  color  are  used,  for 

you  can  place  dependence  on  the  reproducing  of 
true  color  if  the  sire  himself  is  a  two-j'Car-old. 
The  more  of  the  bright  lustrous  sheen  on  your 
breeding  stock  the  better.  Even  if  they  produce 
some  offspring  with  red  cast  in  plumage,  it  is  far 
better  to  maintain  the  rich  beetle  green  with  a  per 
cent  of  birds  with  reddish  cast  than  to  lose  the 
color  and  have  white.  Both  Black  and  White 
Cochin  Bantams  have  a  tendency  to  white  in  ear- 
lobes.  This  should  be  guarded  against  with  great 
It  usually  comes  with  the  ver}-  best  speci- 
mens and  the  temptation  to  use  them  often 
overcomes  our  better  judgment  and  stamps  the 
fiult  upon  the  flock.  This  takes  years  to  get  rid  of.  Better 
keep  it  out  than  be  compelled  to  breed  it  out. 

We  consider  yellow  legs  a  mistake  on  Black  Cochin  Ban- 
tams. If  you  have  on  your  birds  yellow  legs  and  white  in 
neck  and  ear-lobes,  you  may  be  certain  the  blood  is  bad  and 
you  need  not  hope  for  pure  black  in  plumage.  Better  discard 
your  whole  flock  and  begin  again  with  a  few  well  selected 
birds  from  some  well  established  strain  that  has  perfect  color 
of  ear-lobe  and  plumage,  with  dark  colored  legs,  the  darker 
the  better,  just  so  they  show  yellow  inside  of  feet.  If  we  hope 
to  establish  a  jjure,  solid  black  plumage,  we  must  get  rid  of 
all  the  yellow  possible  in  cvt-ry  part  of  the  bird.  They  are 
not  a  utility  fowl,  so  give  them  all  the  adyuntage  possiljle  in 


fault  by  extra  good 
may  counterbalance 
fauU  will  show  itself 


As  to  the  point   of   overcoming  ou< 
points  in  the  same  section  of  the  mate,  th 
the  fault,  but  you  can  depend  upon  it  thi 
in  the  future.     Never  breed  from  a  liird  with  a  serious  fault  in 
shape;  get  the  best  and  di-scard  bad  defects. 

CUCKOO  COCHIN   BANTAMS 

Cuckoo  Cochin  Bantams  are  of  late  production,  starting 
from  sports  of  Blacks,  Buffs  and  Whites  bred  together  and 
slrengtheiieil  by  birds  of  the  Cuckoo  color  imported  from 
China.     Never  having  seen  any  of  this  color,  we  give  you  a 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


31 


description  of  them  as  written  by  Mr.  Rntwisle,  the  greatest 
breeder  of  Bantams.     He  said: 

"Cuckoo  Cochin  Bantams  should  have  very  sound  orange 
yellow  legs,  and  orange  beaks  are  generally  preferred,  though 
personally  we  do  not  dislike  a  little  dark  marking  on  the  beak 
of  a  Cuckoo  Cochin  Bantam,  as  it  seems  quite  in  harmony 
with  the  feathering.  And  now  we  must  try  to  describe  the 
color  and  markings  of  the  Cuckoos.  These  points  vary  very 
considerably  from  a  pale,  almost  white  ground,  with  cloudy 
and  indistinct  markings,  to  a  beautiful,  soft  French  grey 
ground,  with  dark  slate  bars.  The  more  clearly  defined  and 
the  finer  the  markings  the  better.  Not  only  does  the  ground 
color  varv,  as  well  as  the  color  of  the  bars  or  markings  of  the 
feathers,  but  also  in  different  birds  the  pattern  of  the  markings 
varies  considerably.  There  are  Cuckoos  shown  with  the  same 
pattern  of  markings  as  the  Dark  Brahmas  and  Partridge 
Cochins — concentric  circles  of  penciling,  one  with  the  other, 
/.  e.,  in  the  hen — but  this  is  not  correct.  The 
marking  we  require  in  Cuckoo  Cochin  Ban- 
tams is  a  series  of  clearly  defined  bars  (we  pre- 
fer narrow  ones)  across  each  feather,  from  the 
head  down  the  hackle,  breast,  thighs,  wings, 
back,  saddle  and  tail,  and,  in  fact,  each  feather 
throughout  the  whole  bird,  both  cock  and  hen, 
must  have  this  distinct  barring,  or  series  of 
bands,  across  the  feathers.  In  some  birds  we 
have  counted  nine  bars  across  the  hackle  or 
saddle  feather  of  a  cockerel,  but  seven  bars 
make  the  feather  look  well.  A  less  number 
would  not  be  so  good.  In  hens,  across  the 
saddle  feathers,  five  bars  are  sufficient,  and  as 
feathers  on  other  parts  of  the  body  are  not  so 
long,  a  proportionately  less  number  of  bars  is 
.equired.  The  same  description  of  marking  is 
required  on  the  feathering  of  the  legs,  feet  and 
toes,  and  the  more  distinct  the  better. 

"A  common  failing  of  Cuckoos  is  to  have 
some  of  the  wing  feathers  white,  or  with  a  good 
deal  of  white  in  them,  and  also  in  the  tail  feathers.  This  is 
a  grave  fault,  and  is  reproduced  in  the  chickens  most  per- 
sistently. If  the  fault  is  seen  in  the  brood  cock,  it  will  not 
do  to  run  hens  with  him  having  the  same  fault.  If  the  cock 
bird  is  perfectl\-  sound  in  color,  less  anxiety  need  be  felt 
about  a  little  white  in  the  hens'  flight  feathers.  Never  breed 
from  any — either  cocks  or  hens — that  are  broad,  coarse  or 
irregular  in  their  markings." 

PARTRIDGE  COCHIN   BANTAMS. 

The  Partridge  Cochin  Bantam  has  the  same  standard  colors 
and  penciling  as  the  larger  specimens.  They  are  the  latest 
production  in  the  Pekin  variety.  As  stated,  their  origin  was  a 
cross  of  Buff  and  Black  bred  to  large  Cochins  and  reduced  bv 
care  and  patience  to  the  proper  form  and  size.  The  same 
method  of  producing  males  and  females  of  proper  colors  in 
the  large  varieties  must  be  followed  with  them.  We  hear  of 
superb  specimens  of  this  variety  being  shown  in  England; 
but  their  idea  of  color  of  Partridge  Cochins  and'ours  differ  so 
much  that  due  allowance  must  be  made  in  this  line.  The 
writer  is  now  breeding  a  strain  of  Partridge  Cochin  Bantams 
that  are  small  in  size,  fine  in  form,  and  very  good  in  color  and 
penciling.  These  birds  show  good  length  of  feather  and  fluff, 
also  fine  foot  feathers,  and  it  is  my  belief  that  within  a  few 
years  they  will  be  fully  the  equal  of  the  very  best  Cochin  Ban- 
tams. This  strain  has  its  origin  in  English  bred  birds,  crossed 
on  a  small  standard  female  and  recrossed  on  the  imported 
stock.  We  can  now  feel  assured  of  a  good  foundation  in  this 
variety.  The  winners  at  New  York  and  Boston  last  winter 
were  a  sample  of  what  the  stock  may  be  expected  to  produce. 
The  same  stock  won  over  all  others  at  both  New  York  and 
Boston  in  1898,  proving  their  quality. 


Past  experience  in  breeding  this  variety  has  taught  me 
the  great  importance  of  color  in  the  male  bird  used  to  produce 
pullets.  Of  all  the  birds  produced  last  season  (1897)  not  one 
male  bird  had  to  be  destroyed  for  lack  of  standard  color. 
Many  pullets  were  of  no  value,  their  color  and  penciling  being 
so  defective.  To  produce  the  proper  color  of  female  the 
deepest  red  possible  fo  obtain  in  males  in  necessary.  Having 
been  produced  with  a  Black  Breasted  Red  Bantam  cross,  but 
few  of  the  males  formerly  showed  good  penciling  in  hackle. 
This  is  improved  by  the  cross  with  a  standard  or  large  Partridge 
Cochin  female,  and  now  both  hackle  and  saddle  show  indica- 
tions of  the  black  stripe. 

Another  fault  in  this  variety  is  the  tendency  to  long  beak, 
fashioned  after  the  Game  Bantams.  Great  attention  must  be 
paid  to  this,  for  it  detracts  from  the  Cochin  form  and  beauty. 
The  color  of  the  female  in  these  Bantams  is  not  so  rich  a  brown 
as  it  should  be.     It  has  a  tendency  toward  a  yellowish  brown. 


and  not  a  reddish  or  mahogany  brown,  as  demanded  by  our 
standard  for  Partridge  Cochin  color.  All  these  shortcomings 
must  be  improved  by  the  careful  mating  of  the  best.  They 
are  to-day  better  in  many  ways  than  their  larger  cousins  were 
ten  years  ago.  They  have  fine  Cochin  shape,  good  leg  and 
toe  feathering  and  almost  perfect  color  in  the  males.  With 
these  great  advantages  to  start  with,  careful  handling  will  soon 
reduce  their  size  and  perfect  the  color  and  marking  of  the 
female  and  make  them  full}'  the  equal  of  anj-  Cochin  or  Cochin 
Bantam . 

WHITE  COCHIN   BANTAMS. 

White  Cochin  Bantams  of  very  good  form  and  color  are 
bred  by  a  number  of  Bantam  experts.  They  are  quite  well 
feathered,  and  as  a  class  average  better  in  general  Cochin 
characteristics  than  the  other  varieties,  the  chief  difficulty  is 
the  tendency  of  the  males  to  turn  yellow  in  color.  This  fault 
can  be  bred  out  of  them  b}'  using  as  breeders  birds  having  a 
perfectly  white  shaft  in  their  feathers.  This  may  have  a 
tendency  to  whiten  the  color  of  leg  and  beak,  but  better  this 
fault  than  yellow  plumage. 

It  is  said  by  experts,  thai  the  purest  white  specimens, 
when  first  hatched,  show  a  sooty  shade  of  color.  This  grayish 
color  is  said  to  promise  better  color  when  matured  than  the 
yellow  cast.  Of  this  we  cau  not  say  from  experience,  but  we 
know  that  if  pure  white  to  the  skin  when  hatched,  they  will 
mature  to  a  beautiful  pearly  white.  The  Whites,  we  believe, 
will  become  the  banner  Bantam  of  them  all. 

In  man)'  cases  the  White  and  Black  specimens  far  excel 
the  Buffs  in  true  Cochin  qualities.  They,  like  all  but  the 
Buffs,  came  from  a  cross  with  their  larger  cousins  and  carry 
the  Cochin  shape,  none  but  the  Buffs  baviug  suffered  in  shape 


32 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


and  feather  by  the  cross  with  Nankin  and  White  Booted  Ban- 
tams. These  faults  are  fast  disappearing  from  the  Buffs,  and 
soon  we  may  hope  to  see  Cochin  wonders  in  miniature  form  of 
the  five  colors  at  our  exhibitions.  Of  one  point  too  much  can 
not  be  said.  It  is  quite  true  that  the  smaller  the  better  if  true 
Cochin  type  is  maintained,  but  close  feathering  is  not  Cochin 
form.  Cochins  should  have  long,  fluffy'feathers,  and  these 
close-feathered  birds  that  look  small  should  not  be  allowed  to 
gain  the  ascendency,  for  if  they  do  the  true  Cochin  Bantam  is 
gone. 

The  following  is  from  the  pen  of  Mr.  A.  P.  Groves,  a  true 
fancier,  who  contributes  his  experience  to  this  work: 

Chestnut  Hili.,  Phil.'VDElphia,  Pennsylvani.\. 
Mr.  T.  F.  McGrew: 

The  American  White  Pekin  or  Cochin  Bantams  were 
originated  by  me  about  eight  years  ago.  I  was  breeding  Buff 
Pekins  at  that  time  and  some  of  their  progeny  came  pure 
white.  I  bred  these  white  specimens  together  and  established 
what  is  known  as  the  Snow-Drop  strain.  There  was  no  Booted 
Bantam  or  other  blood  used  in  their  composition.     Thev  are 


FIG    38 


COCHIN   BANTAMb 


now  well  distributed  over  the  United  States,  and  some  have 
gone  to  England  to  compete  for  prizes  there.  In  many  instances 
they  have  been  successful.  I  consider  our  home-bred  birds 
the  equal  of  those  sent  from  England,  if  they  are  not  the 
superior.  Some  of  these  may  be  whiter  in  plumage,  they 
having  paid  more  attention  than  we  to  this  point,  but  in  shape, 
leg  and  toe  feathering  we  acknowledge  no  superiority.  Having 
as  careful  breeders  here  as  there  are  on  the  other  side,  why 
should  we  fall  behind  them? 

I  consider  the  White  Cochin,  when  well  bred,  the  hand- 
somest of  the  Bantam  family.  Care  should  be  exercised  in 
breeding  them.  Only  birds  of  good  shape  and  heavy  leg  and 
toe  feathering  should  be  used;  otherwise  you  will  have  many 
culls.  Never  breed  from  a  bird  with  light  leg  or  toe  feathering, 
no  matter  how  good  otherwise.  In  regard  to  feeding  the 
chicks,  give  them  bread  soaked  in  sweet  milk,  not  too  wet, 
for  a  month  or  six  weeks;  after  that  give  them  whole  wheat. 
I  have  followed  this  rule  for  several  years,  and  seldom  lose 
a  chick.  .\.  P.  Groves. 

BLACK  COCHIN   BANTAMS. 

Of  all  the  breeders  of  Cochin  Bantams  none  have  surpassed 
Mr.  David  A.  Nichols,  of  Moiroe,  Connecticut.  To  him  is 
due  the  honor  of  establishing  a  strain  of  Black  Cochin  Ban- 
tams free  from  all  white  in  plumage.  The  following  is  from 
his  pen,  especially  for  the  readers  of  this  book: 

Monroe,  Connecticut. 
Mr.  T.  F.  McGretv: 

I  can  not  think  myself  a  successful  breeder  of  Bantams; 
each  year  brings  me  some  new  disappointment.  Hopes  cher- 
ished for  months  fall  away  in  non-realization  of  some  improve- 
ment   confidently    looked     for.     But    still,    many     of     these 


disappointments  are  softened  with  the  knowledge  that  other 
points  are  strengthened  and  we  are  better  and  stronger  for 
another  season. 

My  first  selection  of  Black  Cochin  Bantams  was  made 
from  the  best  I  could  find.  Color,  form  and  size  were  not  so 
good  then  as  now.  These  I  bred  from  and  improved  each  year 
by  selecting  the  best  of  all  and  inbreeding,  always  discarding 
a  fault  in  form  or]'color,  till  I  had  established  a  solid  black 
plumage  on  some  fairly  well  formed  birds.  These  were  mated 
to  hold  color  and  improve  the  Cochin  form.  The  records 
must  tell  whether  I  have  been  successful  in  my  efforts  or  not. 
My  chicks  are  hatched  under  hens  on  a  farm  near  by  (not 
having  room  at  home),  light-weight  barn-yard  fowls  being 
used  as  sitters,  each  hen  having  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  eggs . 
Each  hen  is  given  from  twelve  to  fifteen  chicks  to  care  for. 
They  and  the  mother  hen  are  placed  in  a  coop  out  in  the 
garden,  or  where  no  grass  grows,  as  I  have  had  poor  success 
in  ni}-  efforts  to  rear  them  on  a  grass  plot.  The  birds,  when 
young,  will  ramble  in  the  grass  when  it  is  wet  from  rain  or 
dew,  and  a  few  days  of  this  will  cause  them  to  dwindle  and  die. 
The  chicks  are  fed  the  first  few  days  on  cooked 
oat  meal.  After  one  week  they  have  the  food 
known  as  H.  O.,  and  are  fed  with  this  till  large 
enough  to  eat  wheat.  When  at  this  age  they  are 
confined  m  covered  wire  runs  and  not  allowed  to 
roam  about  and  grow  too  fast.  I  find  that  when 
allowed  their  freedom  they  are  quite  liable  to  grow 
into  oversized  birds. 

The  breeding  birds  are  kept  in  separate  pens 
that  have  a  wire  netting  cover  over  them  to  pre- 
fix vent  the  birds  from  getting  out  or  into  the  wrong 
^pen.  It  also  prevents  hawks  or  cats  from  bother- 
■  ing  them.  It  is  quite  a  pleasure  to  see  a  hawk  dart 
down  for  a  specimen  to  his  liking  and  injure  him- 
self on  the  wire  covering.  In  pens  of  this  kind 
^  you  will  always  feel  content  that  the  birds  are 
quite  safe. 

Upon  the  subject  of  mating  I  will  be  silent. 
Having  heard  the  saying,  "Tell  a  chopper  by  his  chips,"  it  is 
far  better  that  I  should  not  claim  the  art  of  knowing  how  to 
mate  or  produce  good  ones,  for  by  so  doing  I  lay  myself  open 
to  the  criticism  of  those  who  do  know  how. 

D.  A.  Nichols, 
care  of  bantams. 

Springfield,  Ohio. 
.Mr.  T.  F.  McGreic: 

When  the  breeding  season  commences,  move  pens  entirely 
away  from  the  winter  quarters.  For  houses  use  a  common 
store  box,  make  a  slanting  top,  and  cover  all  over  with  tar 
paper.  Make  south  side  a  wire  door.  Runs  should  be  covered 
with  grass  or  sand  and  must  have  plenty  of  shade.  If  runs  are 
large  a  good  feed  of  wheat  at  night  is  a  plenty;  if  small,  some 
oats  in  morning  and  wheat  at  night  should  be  given,  with  green 
bone  three  times  a  week  and  a  trifle  of  corn  once  a  week  for  a 
change.  Do  not  let  them  get  too  fat.  Incubators  and  brooders 
should  not  be  used  except  where  large  numbers  are  raised.  In 
early  spring  set  hens  in  a  warm,  dry  house  by  themselves. 
Make  nests  at  least  a  foot  off  the  ground.  Later  make  nests 
on  the  ground.  Be  careful  about  sudden  changes  of  food  or 
weather,  or  bowel  trouble  will  surely  follow.  When  chicks 
hatch  move  the  brood  to  a  warm,  dry  shed  with  a  sand  floor. 
Sand  should  be  changed  two  or  three  times  a  season.  Keep 
the  hens  in  coops,  but  let  the  chicks  run  in  the  shed.  The 
first  week  I  feed  thoroughly  cooked  rice.  Give  fresh  water 
three  times  a  day  and  a  nice  green  piece  of  sod  each  morning. 
After  a  week  feed  cracked  corn,  millet  and  rolled  oats,  a  little 
green  bone  once  a  week,  but  not  much  as  it  causes  bowel 
trouble.  If  chicks  get  dysentery  or  bowel  trouble  feed  nothing 
but  cracker  crumbs  and  cut  green  catnip.     There  is  nothing 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


33 


better  than  catnip  to  check  the  bowels.  Wean  when  six  weeks 
old  and  place  in  a  shady  run  by  themselves  and  feed  wheat 
and  corn,  gradually  reducing  the  food  to  two  light  meals  a  day. 

Separate  the  sexes  the  first  of  September,  and  October  first 
move  back  to  the  winter  quarters,  which  have  previously  been 
thoroughly  cleaned  and  the  runs  sown  in  wheat  or  rye.  A 
large,  well  ventilated  house  is  the  thing  for  Bantams.  Do  not 
use  a  low,  dark  house. 

In  winter  I  feed  wheat  in  the  morning,  millet  and  cut 
clover  at  noon,  cracked  corn  at  night,  and  green  bone  twice  a 
week.  I  find  a  hot  mash  for  Cochins  or  Cochin  Bantams  is  not 
best  in  cold  weather.  They  will  eat  it  heartily,  but  after  the 
temporary  effects  of  the  heated  mash  wear  off  they  stand  around 
and  shiver  and  take  cold  easily.  Commence  in  the  morning 
and  make  them  scratch  all  day.  They  will  lay  better  and  keep 
healthier.  When  Bantams  are  molting  increase  food  and 
give  a  small  quantity  of  fiax  seed  and  yellow  mustard  seed 
once  a  week.  Do  not  fail  to  have  a  well  filled  dust  box  in 
each  house  the  year  through,  and  in  summer  spade  up  a  place 
in  the  runs.  Let  them  play  in  the  dirt,  that  is,  nice,  fresh 
soil,  not  filth.  It  will  help  to  keep  them  free  from  lice  and 
their  plumage  in  better  shape. 

To  see  what  lice  can  do,  I  took  two  green  legged  chicks 
from  a  brood  ten  days  old,  that  were  apparently  hearty  and 
well.  On  the  throat  of  one  I  placed  three  gray  lice,  and  on  the 
other,  four.  In  two  days  the  latter  died,  and  in  a  little  over 
three  days  the  first  one  died.  They  were  subjected  to  the  same 
care  and  treatment  as  the  rest  of  the  brood,  which  have  all 
lived.  So  you  see  too  much  stress  can  not  be  put  on  the  lice 
question,  especially  with  reference  to  Bantams.  I  prefer 
vaseline  to  any  other  grease  for  head  lice,  but  prefer  to  use 
none  if  it  can  be  avoided.  Coal  oil  or  lard  kills  chicks  as  well 
as  the  lice  in  a  great  many  cases.  Powdered  moth  balls,  one 
part;  snuff,  two  parts;  insect  powder,  four  parts,  make  the 
best  insect  powder  I  ever  used.  Two  or  three  moth  balls 
placed  in  the  nest  with  the  eggs  will  keep  both  hen  and  chicks, 
when  hatched,  free  from  lice.     It  is  fine. 

As  to  mating,  I  mate  with  these  objects  in  view: 

First,  shape;  second,  color;  third,  size.  Or  first,  a  Cochin; 
second,  a  Buff  Cochin;  third,  a  Buff  Cochin  Bantam. 

In  the  male  I  want  as  light  surface  color  as  possible,  but 
must  have  a  sound  under-color,  and  I  depend  on  him  for  comb, 
color  and  carriage.  In  the  female  I  want  a  deep  color  (not 
brown),  very  good  shape  and  feathering.  Too  much  care  can 
not  be  used  in  selecting  the  male.  This  is  contrary  to  nature, 
and  red  will  crop  out  strong  in  wing-bows  of  cockerels  for  a 
few  seasons.  Dark  males  and  light  females  do  not  go  with 
me.  Do  not  discard  a  good  shaped  or  colored  Bantam  because 
it  is  too  large;  nor  breed  a  delicate,  punj'  one  because  it  is 
small.  You  are  breeding  trouble  if  you  do.  I  believe  it  is  all 
bosh  about  using  a  male  with  black  in  tail  because  it  holds  up 
color.  The  sooner  Buff  breeders  drop  that  notion  the  quicker 
black  will  disappear  in  wings  and  tail.  (The  tail  does  not 
wag  the  bird.)  Do  not  breed  a  green  legged  bird  for  a  farm 
in  Texas;  white  is  bad  enough.  What  we  need,  and  need 
badly,  are  judges  who  know  something  about  Bantams.  Not 
one  in  ten  pays  any  attention  to  long,  straight,  dark  colored 
beaks,  depressions  in  front  of  eyes,  lack  of  depth  of  keel  bone, 
long  flight  feathers,  lacing  of  feathers  on  back  of  females,  etc., 
and  as  long  as  the  judges  do  not  the  breeders  will  not.     The 


successful  breeder  of  to-day  is  the  one  who  selects  a  variety 
best  suited  for  his  purpose,  studies  it  carefully,  uses  an  abund- 
ance of  grit,  patience  and  common  sense,  adapts  himself  to  his 
circumstances  and  surroundings,  and  sticks  as  closely  as 
possible  to  the  lines  of  nature. 

Clarence  Henderson. 

a  breeder  of  white  cochins. 

Elberon,  New  Jersey. 
Mr.  T.  F.  McGrew: 

We  imported  our  first  stock  of  White  Cochin  Bantams  from 
England.  We  made  altogether  seven  importations,  and  we 
can  candidly  say  there  is  no  necessity  for  going  there  except 
for  new  blood  to  prevent  inbreeding.  In  fact,  after  the  new 
standard  is  out  we  will  not  be  able  to  import,  because  they 
breed  them  with  both  yellow  and  white  legs  and  beaks.  The 
best  White  Cochin  Bantam  we  ever  imported  was  "Nameless." 
She  was  undoubtedly  the  best  White  Cochin  Bantam  ever  seen 
in  America.  She  was  even  smaller  than  any  pullet.  When 
she  was  four  years  old  she  was  sold  for  the  longest  price  ever 
paid  for  a  Cochin  Bantam  in  this  country.  Messrs.  Butterfield, 
Ball,  Zimmer  and  Rockeustyre  considered  her  perfection.  The 
yellow  legged  strain  was  produced  by  a  cross  of  the  English 
and  American  White  Cochin  Bantam,  breeding  for  a  type  with 
yellow  legs  and  beaks,  and  by  a  very  strong  use  of  the  ax  on 
culls. 

Feed  bread,  cracker  crumbs,  oat  meal,  grit  and  wheat,  with 
this  breed.  Beware  of  yellow  corn  as  you  would  a  pestilence. 
Where  one  has  plenty  of  shade  one  can  produce  that  sheeny 
white  plumage.  CHARLES  JEHL. 

secretary  national  bantam  assoc! ation. 
Flatbush,  Long  Island. 
Mr.  r.  F.  McGrew: 

I  do  not  think  I  can  give  you  anything  of  particular 
interest  regarding  the  handling  of  Bantams,  as  you  requested, 
but  will  send  you  a  part,  at  least,  of  my  experience. 

I  generally  mate  three  or  four  females  with  one  male  and 
have  several  matings.  The  eggs  are  saved  from  the  middle  of 
April  and  chicks  are  hatched  during  the  first  week  of  May. 
When  young  I  put  the  chicks  in  barrels  at  night,  with  the 
opening  facing  toward  the  south.  These  I  find  are  satisfactory, 
as  they  shed  the  rains  and  afford  a  dry  place  for  the  broods. 
I  put  a  quantit}'  of  earth  on  the  bottom  and  pack  some  up 
around  the  outside,  always  placing  the  barrels  on  higher 
ground  than  that  immediately  around  thefti.  I  lay  a  board  over 
the  front,  which  furnishes  a  shelter  from  showers  and  breaks 
any  hard  wind.  When  the  hen  leaves  her  brood  I  change  the 
chicks  to  dry-goods  boxes  about  four  feet  square.  These  I  tilt 
about  one  foot  back  by  nailing  legs  on  the  front  of  the  box,  and 
place  three  or  four  roosts  inside.  A  slight  cover  partly  over 
the  front  keeps  the  rain  out  and  gives  a  proper  shelter  to  the 
stock.  By  the  use  of  plenty  of  kerosene  no  trouble  is  had  from 
lice  at  any  time  of  the  year.  The  stock  is  allowed  to  run  over 
a  tract  of  laud,  not  being  confined  until  nearly  matured.  Ban- 
tams require  a  change  of  food  and  must  be  fed  when  young  or 
the  chances  are  that  not  many  will  survive.  I  give  raw  beef 
quite  often  and  all  the  grain  they  require.  They  are  easily 
cared  for  if  they  receive  the  proper  start  in  the  spring. 

E.  J.  Latham,  Sec'y  Nat'l  Bantam  Ass'u. 


CHAPTER  VII. 


JAPANESE  BANTAMS. 

The  Manner  of  the  Japanese  in  Producing  Birds,  Plants,  Trees  and  Flowers. 


T  HIS  home,  time  is  not  considered  by  the  Japanese 
when  producing  or  improving  a  plant  or  flower.  Con- 
sider the  patience  and  time  consumed  to  produce  the 
many  varieties  of  form  and  color  in  chrysanthemums. 
We  can  to-day  surpass  them  in  fine  colors  and  forms, 
but  this  is  only  our  ability  to  make  use  of  the  pro- 
ductions of  others,  aided,  as  we  are,  by  well  equipped 
hot-houses  and  conditions  most  favorable.  In  trees  they  have 
dwarfed  the  most  stately  and  beautiful  into  miniature  form, 
some  with  long  flowing  leaves,  others  with  wnxen  texture  and 


FIG.  39— JAPANESE    BANTAM.S. 

bright  glowing  colors.  These  are  engrafted  into  one  another 
until  the  product  is  a  beautiful  little  toy  tree  with  many  kinds 
and  colors  of  leaves.  Even  in  the  production  of  fruit  trees 
they  succeed  in  getting  wonderful  results. 

A  friend,  who  spent  years  of  his  life  in  their  country,  tells 
me  that  they  take  young  fowls  and  animals  and  confine  them 
in  boxes  made  to  suit  their  purpose,  and  of  different  forms  to 
meet  the  form  of  their  specimen.  These  are  confined  in  the 
ill-shaped  boxes  until  they  mature  and  their  bodies  grow  to 
the  shape  of  the  inside  of  the  box.  No  consideration  of  time 
and  trouble  affects  them  just  so  they  can  accomplish  the  object 
in  view  and  surpass  a  neighbor  in  the  work.  Think  of  a  square 
shaped  chicken  or  pig,  or  a  squirrel  or  rabbit  with  a  hump  like 
a  camel!  These  same  efforts  produced  the  fowls  with  the  very 
long  tails,  many  of  which  are  little  larger  than  our  Bantams. 
To  produce  these  curious  freaks  must  take  an  extent  of  con- 
finement on  one  hand  and  so  close  in-breeding  on  the  other 
that  they  must  possess  some  wonderful.secret  of  infusing  vigor 
into  their  specimeus  unknown  to  us. 


Some  thirty-five  years  ago  the  first  fowls  known  as  Japan- 
ese Bantams  came  to  England.  The  earl3r  specimens  were 
of  cuckoo  marking,  others  variously  marked  and  speckled,  but 
the  most  attractive  were  what  we  now  call  Black  Tailed  Japan- 
ese Bantams.  No  mention  is  made  of  the  white  edge  on  the 
sickle  feathers  of  those  early  importations.  We  should  pre- 
sume from  all  information  at  hand  that  this  was  not  promi- 
nent enough  to  cause  any  mention  of  same.  In  addition  to 
the  above  mentioned  varieties,  some  came  frizzled  feathered. 
The  Black  Tailed  Japanese  are  described  as  follows,  by  -in 
early  writer:  "The  cock  has  good  carriage, 
short  clear  yellow  legs,  drooping  wings  with 
black  flights,  body  white,  tail  erect  with  long 
black  sickle  feathers  showing  white  shaft, 
comb  large  and  upright,  moderate  serrations, 
wattles  long  and  red.  The  hen  should  have  a 
very  short  yellow  leg,  drooped  wings,  black 
flights,  white  body,  tail  large,  erect  and  fan 
shaped,  the  hen's  comb  crinkled."  Another 
description  tells  us  there  is  another  variety 
of  White  Japanese  Bantams  in  which  the 
cock's  tail  flows  in  a  sweeping  semi-circle.  In 
perfect  specimens  the  center  of  these  feathers 
is  of  the  deepest  glossy  black,  finely  edged  or 
laced  with  white  like  the  tail  of  a  Silver  Pen- 
ciled Hamburg.  The  latter  description  was 
recorded  about  ten  years  after  the  first,  show- 
ing that  at  this  later  date  the  edged  tail  was 
noticed.  Today  we  have  the  preference  for  dark 
slate  or  black  primaries,  edged  with  while. 
The  English  .standard  calls  for  a  black  inner 
-^  web  for  the  wing  primaries  and  secondaries. 
Both  now  call  for  white  edge  on  tail  in  both 
^  sickle   and  coverts.     The  English  also  admit 

the  following  varieties  at  the  present  time: 
Black  Tailed  White,  Black,  White,  Speckled, 
Buff,  Gray,  Brown  and  Cuckoo. 
We  present  for  consideration  the  description 
of  a  pair  shown  at  the  Palace  Show,  as  described  by  an  expert: 
"Cock,  snowy  white  in  feathers  of  neck,  breast,  thighs,  body 
and  wings,  with  a  black  tail;  each  sickle  evenly  edged  with 
white;  his  legs  and  bill  as  yellow  as  an  orange;  comb,  lobes 
and  face  as  red  as  blood;  when  his  wings  are  open  they  show 
the  black  in  the  underneath  feathers  of  flights  and  coverts,  but 
the  upper  and  outer  surfaces  are  white.  The  hen  is  colored 
just  like  the  cock  and  her  shape  is  like  his."  Why  we  should 
prefer  the  dark  slate  color  for  primary  markings  can  hardly  be 
told.  Why  should  slate  colored  wing  markings  be  preferred 
in  these  when  it  is  not  allowed  in  Light  Brahmas,  both  being 
white  with  black  markings?  The  comb  of  a  Japanese  is  quite 
prominent  and  beautiful,  usually  fine  in  form  and  well  ser- 
rated. The  face,  ear-lobes  and  wattles  are  quite  uniform  and 
handsome.  A  well  formed  Japanese  female  is  a  ver\'  quaint 
looking  bird,  the  short  legs,  drooped  wings  and  long  tail  being 
so  very  different  from  any  other  fowl,  and  when  they  move 
about  they  look  almost  as  if  they  were  sliding  along. 

No  variety  of  fowls  breeds  more.true  than  they,  their  main 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


35 


fault  being  loss  of  color  ia  the  black  feathers  and  defective 
lacing.  To  my  notion  the  most  attractive  of  all  Japanese  is 
the  pure  black.  This  color  seems  to  fit  their  size  and  form 
better  than  the  white  with  black  tails.  They  are  also  to  be 
had  in  solid  white,  buff,  gray  and  brown  of  various  shades. 
The  most  popular  varieties  are  the  Black  Tailed  Whites,  pure 
Black  and  pure  Whites. 

The  first  importation  of  Black  Tailed  Whites  into  this 
country  were  quite  oversized  birds  in  compar- 
ison with  those  w^  now  have.  The  first  impor- 
tation of  real  quality  in  Japanese  Bantams,  we 
believe,  should  be  credited  to  Mr.  J.  D.  Nevius, 
of  Philadelphia,  who  has  at  different  times  had 
large  consignments  of  Black  Tailed  Whites, 
pure  Black.White  and  Grays  of  superior  quality. 
The  first  really  fine  specimens  set  n  by  the  writer 
were  in  his  yards. 

Black  Tailed  Whites  are  the  best  known 
with  us.  To  breed  them  to  perfection  is  quite 
an  art.  The  proper  coloring  of  body,  wings  and 
tail  must  be  closely  watched  to  prevent  them 
fading  or  encroaching  upon  forbidden  ground. 
The  rich  yellow  color  of  beak,  legs  and  toes; 
the  bright  red  face,  comb  and  wattles;  pure 
white  plumage  of  entire  body;  wings  partly 
black;  and  black  tails,  the  sickles  and  coverts 
of  same  edged  with  white,  make  a  beautiful 
combination  for  the  breeder's  skill  to  work  into 
greater  perfection.     Their  long  overbalancing 

tails  and  full  plumage  with  their  form  and  car-  

riage  of  body  give  them  an  appearance  unlike 
any  other  fowl.  A  slight  description  of  their 
general  form  will  represent  them  all  as  to  shape. 

The  face  of  a  Japanese  Bantam  should  be  full  and  round 
from  a  side  view;  eyes  large  and  bright;  comb  rather  large, 
strong  and  well  serrated;  neck  short,  curving  backward  over 
the  body,  almost  touching  the  tail;  back  short;  breast  round 
and  full  with  a  forward  carriage ;  body  short  and  plump;  wings 
long  and  drooping;  the  tail  of  the  male  long  and  full,  carried 
upright  and  forward  almost  touching  his  head;  the  tail  of  the 
female  should  be  carried  nearly  upright,  a  drooping  or  hang- 
ing to  either  side  is  quite  a  serious  defect;  legs  very  short  and 
free  from  feathers,  tile  shorter  the  shank  the  better,  just  so 
the  body  is  carried  free  from  the  ground. 

The  Black  Tailed  variety  should  be  a  very  clear  white, 
all  except  wings  and  tail.  The  primaries  should  be  black, 
edged  with  white.  The  secondaries,  our  standard  tells  us, 
should  be  dark  slate,  edged  with  white  on  the  upper  web, 
lower  web  white.  We  much  prefer  the  black  in  wing  of  both 
male  and  female,  tail  of  both  black.  In  the  male  the  sickles 
and  coverts  are  edged  all  around  with  white.  The  tail  coverts 
of  female  same  as  body  color.  If  of  fine  form  and  carriage 
and   pure   white     with   black   markings,   this   is   a  beautiful 


a  greenish  luster  so  much  the  more  beautiful.  Beaks,  legs 
and  toes  ia  all  Japanese  Bantams  should  be  yellow,  but  in 
Blacks  they  are  apt  to  shade  into  a  dark  color.  This  is  allow- 
able, and  is  often  seen  on  the  richest  colored  specimens.  The 
Whites  should  be  pure  white.  The  Grays,  very  dark  or  black 
in  body  color;  the  male  niarked  in  neck,  back  and  wings  much 
like  a  Silver  Dorking;  the  female  laced  all  over  with  the  same 
silvery  color.     Such  well  marked  specimens  are  very  scarce. 


^.^ 


The  Black  Japanese  Bantam  should  be  a  pure  black,  if  of 


FIG.  40. —  FRIZZLED    BANTAMS. 

Usually  the  markings  of  both  male  and  female  are  very 
deficient.  A  few  Buff  Japanese  were  shown  at  New  York  in 
1897.  They  are  very  scarce  and  not  fully  developed  as  a  dis- 
tinct variety. 

In  breeding  these  Bantams  the  most  perfect  specimens 
obtainable  should  be  bred  together,  not  more  than  two  or  three 
females  to  each  male.  The  young  chicks  must  be  very  tenderly 
handled  until  six  or  eight  weeks  old.  After  reaching  this  age 
they  are  quite  hardy  and  will  care  for  themselves  if  properly 
fed  and  housed  in  dry  quarters  at  night.  Long  grass  makes  a 
bad  run  for  them  when  damp  as  they  are  quite  sensitive  to  wet 
and  damp  surroundings.  Being  so  close  to  the  ground  their 
body  feathers  get  wet  and  produce  disease. 

FRIZZLED  BANTAMS. 
Frizzled  Bantams  of  the  Japanese  type  are  quite  like  them 
in  form.  Some  contend  that  they  are  of  English  origin,  while 
others  tell  us  they  came  from  Japan.  Their  general  apperance 
would  indicate  their  close  relationship.  They  look  quite  like 
the  Japanese  in  shape  and  color.  The  plumage  of  the  whole 
body  turns  a  reversed  way.  We  will  treat  more  fully  of.  them 
in  our  next  chapter. 


CHAPTER  YIII. 


FRIZZLED  AND  RUMPLESS  BANTAMS. 

Their  Origin  Must  Be  Oriental. 


N  the  chapter  on  Japanese  fowls  mention  was  made 
of  the  Frizzled  as  being  of  the  same  variety.  In  giv- 
ing the  information  about  these  breeds,  it  is  not  my 
intention  to  claim  all  the  statements  as  my  own, for  the 
reason  that  much  of  this  information  is  gathered  from 
books  and  recorded  for  your  information.  It  is  my 
wish  to  state  here  that  the  information  thus  gathered 
is  put  into  this  form  without  any  reference  to  its  origin. 

The  Frizzled  is  one  of  the  oldest  known  breeds.  Natural- 
ists made  mention  of  this  and  the  Rumpless  about  three  hun- 
dred years  ago.  On  one  point  the  early  writers  agree — that 
the  Frizzled  is  a  native  of  Southern  Asia;  also  to  be  found  in 
Java,  Sumatra  and  the  Phillippine  Islands.  The  prevailing 
color  of  the  wild  race  is  white,  with  smooth  legs.  Some  speci- 
mens were  found  of  various  colors  and  feathered  legs,  indi- 
cating the  presence  of  the  same  blood  that  produced  our 
Brahmas  and  Cochins.  These  facts  would  indicate  an  inter- 
change of  fowls  at  that  early  day  between  the  inhabitants 
of  the  older  nations  of  the  earth.  If  the  fowls  of  China 
found  their  way  to  the  natives  of  the  above  named  coun- 
tries, why  not  the  same  interchange  of  fowls  with  Japan, 
thus  giving  them  the  blood  to  produce  the  Frizzled  Japanese 


The  Rumpless,  called  in  early  times  the  Rumpkin,  is 
properly  called  "Choci-KukuUo,"  which  translated  is  "Cochin 
Fowl."  Some  writers  claim  it  as  a  native  of  Persia.  Aldro- 
vandus  spoke  of  this  variety  as  the  Persian  fowl,  while  others 
positively  state  that  it  first  came  from  Cochin,  and  their  nat- 
ural color  was  black.  Some  white  ones  were  also  seen.  These 
facts  show  that  both  these  fowls  originally  came  from  the 
same  region  of  the  country,  that  their  original  color  was  black 
or  white,  with  smooth  legs,  and  for  the  Rumpless  rose  combs. 
The  Frizzled  were  very  much  the  same.  Now,  these  facts 
being  so  plainly  recorded  at  that  early  day  should  be  a  guide 
for  our  standard  makers,  and  if  recognized  by  them  at  all, 
color  and  comb  should  be  very  specific  and  positively  described 
and  held  to,  and  not  a  lot  of  cross-bi  ed  mongrels  encouraged 
into  the  show  room. 

Japan  has  sent  us  in  the  last  twenty  years  many  odd  fowls, 
showing  their  ability  to  produce  odd  forms,  the  Frizzled  one 


being  the  most  attractive.  Some  of  our  ablest  English  writers 
do  not  admit  that  these  came  from  Japan,  but  to  my  mind 
their  form  and  carriage  point  to  the  Japanese  origin.  They 
are  bred  and  shown  in  many  colors,  but  the  preference  is  given 
in  all  cases  to  Blacks  and  Whites,  the  former  the  most  pre- 
ferred. I  copy  from  an  English  writer  these  words:  "As  to 
comb  we  have  no  great  preference,  though  our  choice  would 
be  the  single  comb,  but  in  legs  and  feet,  four  toes  and  clean 
legs  are  to  be  preferred.  Of  all  the  Frizzled,  Whites  seem  to 
be  the  most  charming.  These  should  have  yellow  legs  (often 
they  are  willow,  sometimes  slate),  but  yellow  should  have  the 
preference.  Next  come  the  Golden,  with  yellow  or  willow 
legs;  the  Slate  color,  with  black  or  slate  colored  legs,  and  the 
Blacks  with  black  legs.  In  addition  to  these,  we  have  the 
Browns,  Grays  and  Blues, — in  fact,  all  kinds  of  solid  and 
mixed  colors  known  to  fowls."  These  statements  show  the 
many  different  colors  of  these  little  frizzled  fowls. 

Frizzled  Bantams  are  quite  small,  some  of  the  Palace  win- 
ners not  exceeding  one  pound  in  weight.  The  most  valued 
property  is  the  curl  of  the  feathers,  next,  the  quality  of  feather; 
to  be  perfect  they  must  be  hard  and  wiry.  Color  is  the  third 
consideration.  Being  a  tender  fowl  they  must  be  protected 
from  all  changes  of  the  weather,  rain  or  storms.  They  are 
fairly  good  layers,  splendid  sitters  and  mothers,  and  their 
chicks  are  as  easily  raised  as  the  Japanese. 

The  Rumpless  Bantams,  produced,  as  they  were,  by  Mr. 
Tegetmeier,  seem  to  my  mind  to  belong  to  the  same  chapter 
with  the  above.  Let  me  quote  the  words  of  others  as  to  them: 
"They  were  produced  by  a  cross  of  a  very  small  Rumpless  hen 
with  a  crest.  She  was  mated  to  a  White  Polish  and  produced 
Rumpless  Polish  Bantams.  This  same  hen  mated  to  a  very 
small  Nankin  Bantam  produced  tailless  Nankins.  The  result 
of  these  two  crosses  passed  into  the  hands  of  others,  who  con- 
tinued the  work  and  produced  them  in  mauy  forms  and  colors; 
also  some  with  very  short,  booted  legs.  Both  single  and  rose 
combs  are  seen,  but  the  single  is  much  preferred."  These  two 
breeds  in  their  many  colors  would  make  a  study  for  any  num- 
ber of  fanciers,  and  I  hope  some  enterprising  breeder  will  look 
into  them  and  add  them  in  perfection  to  our  list  of  little  beau- 
ties at  our  exhibitions, 


CHAPTER  IX. 


NANKIN  BANTAMS. 

One  of  the  Most  Ancient  Breeds  of  Bantams,  originally  Called  Nankeen. 


^HESE  little  beauties  came  into  notice  many, 
many  years  ago,  and  they  have  taken  part  in 
the  make-up  of  more  of  their  kind  than  any  one 
bird.  They  are  seldom  seen  in  England,  and 
we  hardly  think  a  single  specimen  is  owned  in 
America  at  this  time.  For  their  description,  I 
must  depend  on  the  writings  of  others.  Comb 
may  be  single  or  double,  the  best  of  early  days  had  single 
combs;  legs  blue.  Some  had  white  legs,  but  my  opinion  is 
that  the  double  combs  and  white  legs  came  from  a  cross  with 
other  birds.  When  bred  in  England  color  of  legs  and  style  of 
comb  did  not  matter  so  all  in  one  pen  were  alike.  Thus  the 
two  competed.  These  birds  were  quite  neglected  until  they 
fell  into  the  hands  of  game  keepers,  who  use  them  for  rearing 
partridges.  Mr.  Cresswell  brought  them  into  notice  early  in 
the  seventies,  by  exhibiting  a  beautiful  pen  at  the  Crystal 
Palace  Show.  He  preferred  the  double  combs  and  white  legs. 
I  give  our  readers  his  description  of  them:  "Size  as  small  as 
possible,  comb  single  or  double,  the  latter  preferred;  legs 
blue  or  white,  the  former  are  preferred,  but  hard  to  find;  the 
birds  of  my  original  stock  had  white  legs.  As  long  as  these 
birds  match  in  show  pens  the  comb  and  color  of  legs  are  not 
essential  poiats." 

The  cock  has  an  amusing  and  conceited  walk,  with  flowing 
sickle,  tail  and  wings  almost  sweeping  the  ground.  His 
breast  and  bod}'  are  of  a  deep  ginger  color;  the  back,  wings, 
coverts,  neck  and  saddle  a  rich,  orange  chestnut;  tail,  dark 
chestnut,  shading  into  black,  almost  like  the  original  Cochin 
Bantams  in  color.  The  hen's  general  color  is  a  clear  buff; 
like  a  Buff  Cochin.  Dark,  medium  and  light  colored  birds 
are  found  among  them.  Most  of  them  have  a  shaded  or  pen- 
ciled hackle,  but  they  should  be  free  from  this,  with  tails 
brown,  shading  into  black  at  the  ends.  The  unseen  half  of 
primary  in  both  male  and  female  is  often  black.  They  are 
naturally  very  domestic  and  tame,  excellent  layers  of  good 
sized  eggs  and  careful  mothers  for  their  chicks.  They  breed 
very  true  to  form  and  color.     The  fact  that  these  birds  breed 


so  true  to  their  own  type  proves  their  originality.  If  taken  in 
hand  by  experts  of  the  present  day  they  would  soon  become  a 
favorite,  both  for  their  beauty  and  sterling  qualities.  Since 
writing  the  above,  Mr.  John  Glasgow  has  secured  and  bred 
some  of  these  little  beauties  of  most  perfect  form  and  feather. 

CUCKOO  BANTAMS. 

Cuckoo  Bantams,  or  miniature  Scotch  Greys,  are  like  our 
American  Dominiques.  They  have  single  combs  and  white 
legs.  They  are  produced  both  in  Scotland  and  England  quite 
independently.  Another  variety  of  these  same  birds  has 
been  produced  by  crossing  them  with  Rose  Combs,  giving 
them  the  rose  combs  and  darker  legs.  These  crosses  produce 
Cuckoo  color  with  rose  combs,  Andalusian  color  and  light 
slate  blue  color,  also  both  white  and  black  with  both  styles  of 
combs.  These  Bantams  are  almost  lost  sight  of,  having  been 
pushed  aside  by  the  many  new  kinds  more  handsome  of  form 
and  feather. 

In  my  boyhood  days  we  had  the  African  Bantam,  or  Crow 
chicken,  very  small  and  finely  built.  In  form  they  were  very 
much  like  the  early  Games,  the  male  being  marked  very  much 
like  our  present  Brown  Leghorns  and  the  females  perfe'etly 
black.  These  little  fowls  bred  as  true  as  sparrows  year  after 
year.  I  bred  from  the  product  of  the  one  original  pair.  They 
had  for  their  home  a  big  box  covered  with  stiff  paper  and 
painted  with  tar,  the  roof  made  of  boards  to  shed  the  water. 
Here  winter  and  summer  they  grew  and  thrived  under  con- 
ditions that  our  present  fowls  could  not  stand.  They  had  all 
the  corn  they  could  eat,  but  their  size  kept  just  the  same. 
These  fowls  came  by  steamer  to  Philadelphia  to  a  man  who 
had  a  paper  mill.  He  bred  from  them  and  sent  their  product 
to  the  children  of  his  sister,  and  from  them  came  my  pair  from 
which  I  bred  for  years  with  no  new  blood.  This  experience 
illustrates  the  constitutional  powers  of  these  small  fowls. 
Follow  this  plan  with  judgment,  and  form,  size  and  color 
are  at  your  command  in  handling  and  reducing  these  small 
fowls. 


CHAPTER  X. 


POLISH  BANTAMS. 


Also  Some  New  Bantams  Worthy  of  Note. 


pHESE  miniature  Polish  are  of  the  same  form,  colors 
aud  marking  as  their  larger  relatives  of  the  same 
name.  Both  American  and  English  fanciers  have 
worked  to  produce  these  little  beauties.  The  lack  of 
general  interest  in  them  proves  a  barrier  to  their 
progress,  and  it  may  be  their  extermination.  They 
are  a  most  beautiful  little  fowl,  and  a  Polish  Bantam 
craze  that  would  result  in  a  club  that  would  push  these  little 
beauties  to  the  front  might  soon  result  in  a  special  Polish 
Bantam  show  that  would  rival  the  New  York  cat  show 
Boston  exclusive  pigeon  show. 

-  These  Bantams  have  been  bred  in  the  following  colors: 
Black,  white,  buff,  silver,  gold,  cuckoo,  blue,  and  white 
crested  black.  They  are  simply  Polish  Bantams  with  all  the 
Polish  markings,  etc.,  that  belong  to  the  Polish  family.  They 
were  produced  by  crossing  Golden  Polish  and  Golden  Sebright 
Bantams  for  the  golden  color.  For  the  silver  color,  Silver 
Polish  and  Silver  Sebrights  were  used.  For  Black  and  White 
Polish,  Black  aud  White  Rose  Comb  Bantams  were  used. 
These  crosses  produced  solid  Blacks  and  Whites,  and  White 
Crested  Blacks;  also  white  crested  blue  or  slate  colored  and 
solid  colored  blues.  The  pure  Whites  were  among  the  first  to 
attract  attention  both  here  and  in  England.  Up  to  the  pres- 
ent time  they  are  the  most  perfect  of  all  Polish  Bantams.  Of 
them  we  shall  make  particular  mention. 

White  Crested  White  Polish  Bantams  only  are  allowed  by 
our  standard;  no  other  Polish  Bantam  is  considered.  Of  these, 
two  kinds  or  forms  of  comb  are  allowed — the  single  and 
V-shaped.  Birds  of  the  single  comb  variety  have  silvery 
white  colored  legs  and  no  beard,  while  those  that  have  the 
V-shaped  combs  have  blue  or  slate  colored  legs,  and  a  beard 
or  muff  under  the  throat,  extending  back  to  crest  on  either 
side.  The  beak  of  each  conforms  in  color  with  the  legs, 
either  silver  or  blue,  as  may  be.  The  blue  colored  legs, 
V-shaped  combs,  and  beards,  we  believe  were  produced  both 
in  this  country  and  England  at  about  the  same  time.  The 
others  show  signs  of  an  unnatural  cross.  Demanding,  as  we 
do,  V  or  leaf  combs  and  blue  legs  for  standard  White  Polish, 
why  should  we  admit  both  in  the  Bantams?  Then,  as  to 
weight,  there  is  only  two  ounces  difference  in  these  Polish 
Bantams  and  a  Buff  Cochin  Bantam.  These  points  show  a 
very  unnatural  standard's  demands.  The  English  demand 
seventeen  to  twenty-two  ounces  for  males  and  fourteen  to 
eighteen  ounces  for  females  in  all  Polish  Bantams.  Why 
should  our  standard  permit  such  heavy  weights  for  them? 

The  White  Polish  Bantams  should  be  pure  white  and  as 
small  as  possible.  Our  preference  is  for  the  V  or  leaf  comb. 
Having,  as  they  do,  the  muff  or  beard,  and  being  naturally 
the  better  formed  Bantam,  they  should  have  the  preference. 
To  breed  these  successfully,  select  a  male  perfect  in  form, 
crest  and  beard;  he  should  also  have  a  large,  well-proportioned 
tail  for  his  size.  Legs  should  be  of  blue  color  and  very 
smooth.  His  beak  should  also  be  blue  and  crest  should  be 
large  and  perfect  in  form.  He  should  be  mated  to  a  small 
female  as  perfect  in  all  these  points  as  possible.  A  hen  should 
be  preferred  rather  than  a  pullet  for  producing  strong  chicks. 
It  is  always  best  to  select  as  breeding  stock  birds  that  have 
the  largest  knobs  for  the  crest  to  grow  upon.  Always  select  a 
crest  that  is  well  filled  in  front  and  as  round  as  possibl 

The  other  variety  is  or  should  be  the  same,  only  the  single 
comb  as  small  as  possible.  They  have  silver  colored  legs  and 
beaks,  in  other  points  the  same,  only  no  beard. 


In  all  other  varieties  of  Polish  Bantams  the  standard  for 
the  larger  varieties  should  guide,  excepting  the  size.  This  in 
all  Polish  Bantams  should  be  quite  small.  Do  not  try  to  pro- 
duce these  beautiful  fowls  and  call  them  Bantams  when  half 
the  size  of  the  larger  Polish.  Their  beauty  depends  on  their 
miniature  size. 

Since  writing  the  above  Mr.  F.  B.  Zimmer,  of  Gloversville, 
N.  Y.,  has  shown  me  his  flock  of  Bearded  White  Crested  White 
Polish,  and  produced  evidence  to  show  me  that  he  was  not 
the  '  only  the  first  to  produce  this  variety,  but  the  only  one  thus  far 
to  produce  them  of  proper  size  and  shape  with  all  the  other 
features  of  this  variety  in  so  marked  a  degree  as  to  assure  repro- 
duction of  their  high  qualities.  His  strain  of  Bearded  White 
Polish  is,  beyond  all  dispute,  the  best  in  all  the  world. 

A  new  variety  of  Polish  Bantams  is  just  now  before  us — 
the  Buff  Laced  Polish  Bantams.  To  be  of  correct  type  they 
must  resemble  the  larger  Polish  of  the  same  variety  in  all  fea- 
tures and  conform  in  size  to  other  Polish  Bantams. 

THE  SULTAN  OR  BOOTED  WHITE  POLISH. 
The  Sultan  or  Booted  White  Polish  we  mentioned  with  the 
Booted  Bantams.     Nothing  could  be  more  beautiful  than  nice, 
well-kept  Sultans.     They  would  help  to  swell  the  numbers  for 
a  Polish  Bantam  club. 

SILKY  BANTAMS. 
The  Silky  Bantams  are  very  scarce,  and  are  known  of  the 
following  varieties:  Whites,  Yellow  or  Golden,  Browns 
or  Blacks.  Some  of  these  have  single  combs,  others  the  wal- 
nut comb.  They  are  quite  small,  rather  hairy,  and  said  to  be 
good  sitters  and  mothers.  Their  native  land  was  Eastern 
Asia,  about  Malacca.  Early  writers  call  them  the  woolly  hen. 
Their  feathers  being  almost  entireh'  fluff  give  them  the 
woolly  appearance.  Their  skin  and  bones  are  of  a  purple  or 
blue  color.  This  makes  a  distasteful  looking  dish  for  the 
table,  for  when  cooked  they  have  a  dark  uninviting  appear- 
ance. In  the  early  da3'S  of  the  Cochin  some  of  them  were 
called  Silky  Cochins,  their  plumage  being  fluffy  to  the  very 
end  of  the  feathers,  showing  the  influence  of  home  cultivation 
of  the  fancy  in  the  Orient.  Thus  writes  an  early  fancier  of 
these  fowls:  "Silkies  may  be  classed  as  purely  fancy,  having 
only  their  own  peculiarities  to  recommend  them.  In  place  of 
feathers  they  have  silky  hair;  the  skin  and  legs  are  blue;  face 
and  comb  deep  purple;  ear  lobes  tinged  with  white.  The  best 
of  them  have  five  toes  and  pure  white  plumage." 
A  BREEDER  OF  POLISH. 
Gloversvili<e,  N.  Y.,  March  13,  1S97. 
Mr.  r.  F.  JMcGrew: 

Sixteen  to  seventeen  years  ago  I  started  in  the  plain  Polish 
Bantams,  and  thirteen  or  fourteen  years  ago  I  brought  out  the 
entire  original  stock.  They  originated  in  Massachusetts,  near 
Agawam,  as  much  by  accident  as  any  way.  At  about  that  time 
(thirteen  or  fourteen  j'ears)  there  was  as  good  as  none  outside 
of  my  flock.  The  standard  just  let  them  in  and,  as  }-ou  know, 
called  for  single  comb  and  white  legs.  (I  do  not  know  who 
made  this  standard.)  Many  of  the  chicks  had  blue  legs  and  I 
was  not  as  particular  then  as  I  am  now  and  sold  lots  of  these 
disqualified  birds  after  telling  customers,  but  they  were  crazy 
after  them,  so  they  went.  Being  interested  personally,  I  have 
kept  my  eyes  open  for  Polish  Bantams,  and  I  never  saw  an  Eng- 
lish bird  that  was  white,  nor  heard  of  one,  with  V  comb  and  blue 
legs  in  America.  And  after  I  wrote  our  bearded  standard  as  it 
•  reads,  I  never  heard  of  any  English  being  imported  and 
certain  all  those  that  are  being  shown  in  America  now  are 
from  my  stock,  that  I  bred  from  Big  Bearded  English  Polish 
and  my  non-bearded  birds.  I  will  not  assert  that  England 
never  had  a  bird  to  conform  to  our  standard  of  Bearded 
Bantams.  F.  B.  Zimmbr. 


\ 


THfe  BANTAM  FOWL. 


39 


NEW  BANTAMS. 
The  desire  to  produce  new  breeds  is  almost  a  craze  with 
us.     Not  content  with  improving  those  we  have,  our  attention 


FIG    41 

Bred  b\    f    F   McGrew 

is  attracted  toward  new  things.  The  new  rule  adopted  by  the 
American  Poultry  Association  will  close  the  door,  for  some 
time  at  least,  against  imitation  breeds  or  varieties,  as  may  be. 
As  a  matter  of  record,  I  will  mention  a  number  of  styles 
and  kinds  of  Bantams  that  have  come  and  gone,  many  of  them 
with  merely  passing  notice.  The  most  attractive  of  these  are 
the  Penciled  and  Spangled  Hamburg  Bantams.  They  can  be 
produced  bj'  crossing  Hamburgs  and  Sebrights  together,  and 
reduced  by  inbreeding  and  selection.  The  Silver  Penciled  of 
these  varieties  is  the  most  attractive,  and  we  have  seen  some 
fairly  good  ones  for  the  first  cross. 

Minorca,  Andalusian,  and  Leghorn  Bantams  of  fairly  good 
form  can  be  produced  by  proper  crosses  and  inbreeding.  We 
have  seen  Andalusian  Bantams  of  fairly  good  color  and  comb, 
fashioned  after  the  old  style  of  Game  Bantams.  Brown  Leghorn 
Bantams  can  be  produced  by  crossing  a  small  Brown  Leghorn 
male  with  an  old  style  Black  Red  Game  Bantam  hen.  Inbreed 
and  select  the  most  perfect  specimens  of  small  size  and  breed 
from  them  late  chicks.  White  Leghorns  can  be  produced  in 
the  same  manner  using  small  White  Games  for  the  cross. 

Bantams  called  Centurions,  buff  in  color,  resembling  White 
.  Wonders,  are  bred  by  crossing  Golden  Sebrights,  Japanese  and 
Buff  Cochin  Bantams  with  Buff  Wyandottes.  In  our  opinion 
the  same  or  better  results  might  be  obtained  by  crossing  the 
Golden  Sebright  on  the  Buff  Cochin  Bantam.  This  would 
give  the  buff  color,  the  feathered  legs  and  rose  comb  in  much 
shorter  time  than  the  other  numerous  crosses.  Buff  Plymouth 
Rock  and  Buff  Wyandotte  Bantams  are  produced  by  similar 
crosses.  In  fact,  almost  every  known  fowl  has  to-day  its  coun- 
terpart in  miniature  form  of  more  or  less  merit.  This  may  do 
very  well  as  a  pastime,  to  please  the  fancy  of  those  who  pro- 
duce them,  but  to  have  any  real  value  they  must  possess  the 
characteristics  of  the  breed  they  imitate  and  reproduce  of  their 
kind  moderately  perfect  specimens. 

BURMESE  BANTAMS. 
This  variety  of  Bantams  came  to  Scotland  from  Bermah 
about  fifteen  years  ago.  They  are  a  small  white  Bantam  when 
in  their  best  form,  but  black,  brown  and  speckled  colors  are 
also  natural  to  the  breed.  They  have  a  crest  on  their  heads, 
single  small  comb  in  front  of  the  crest,  long  wings,  very  long 


tails,  extremely  short  legs,  in  fact  so  short  that  their  breast 
and  body  almost  touches  the  ground.  Their  short,  heavily 
feathered  legs  and  toes  make  it  difficult  for  them  to  move 
about.  The  legs  and  beaks  of  the  Burmese  are  yellow,  and 
from  their  general  description  we  should  think  they  were 
much  like  the  Japanese,  with  heavy  leg  and  toe  feathering 
and  crest  added. 

BLACK  SPAJSilSH  BANTAMS. 

Our  attention  has  been  called  to  the  fact  that  they  now 
have  in  England  a  most  perfect  little  Black  Spanish  Bantam, 
about  the  size  of  the  Rose  Comb  Bantam.  It  is  claimed  thai 
they  are  perfect  little  beauties,  with  all  the  features  well 
developed. 

Houdan  Bantams,  Dorking  Bantams  and  Creve  Coeur 
Bantams  have  made  their  appearance  in  England,  in  a  small 
way,  in  the  last  ten  years.  All  of  them  are  splendid  models  of 
the  larger  fowls  they  miniature.  None  of  these  have  as  yet 
made  any  prominence  for  themselves.  So  far  they  are  only  a 
matter  of  record.  The  most  prominent  new  variety  of  Bantams 
is  the  Langshau  now  being  pushed  for  honors  by  their  origin- 
ator, Mr.  Hughes,  whose  description  of  them  is  given  below. 
BLACK  LANGSHAN  BANTAMS. 

In  general  appearance  they  are  just  like  the  Black  Lang- 
shans;  in  fact,  a  perfect  counterpart  of  them  in  miniature  form. 
They  also  have  their  egg  producing  trait.  They  were  produced 
by  breeding  in  direct  line  from  Black  Langshans  by  proper 
selecting  and  mating  and  now  breed  true  to  size  and  form;  in 
fact,  they  breed  so  true  that  a  large  per  cent  of  them  are  quite 
good  enough  for  either  exhibition  or  breeding. 

Now  a  few  words  regarding  how  I  came  to  breed  them.  In 
the  fall  of  189Z  a  Black  Langshan  hen  stole  her  nest  and 
hatched  a  brood  of  chicks  in  November.  The  flock  which  had 
this  hen  as  a  member  was  running  at  large  in  an  old  orchard 
and  I  did  not  see  either  the  hen  or  chicks  until  snow  came  and 
I  looked  to  see  if  all  the  stock  was  roosting  in  the  house;  then 
I  found  the  chicks.     Well,  my  first  thought  on  seeing  them 


FIG.  42. — WHITS  COCHIN  BANTAM. 
Snow  Drop,  from  life.  Bred  at  Elmwood  Farm, 
was,  "How  much  they  look  like  Bantams!"  These  chicks, 
five  of  them,  survived  the  winter,  and  the  thought  that  they 
looked  like  Bantams  was  father  to  the  resolve  to  try  and  breed 
from  them  Black  Langshan  Bantams.  The  chicks  were 
dwarfed  in  size  and  to-day  two  of  the  hens  that  were  the 
foundation  of  the  O.  K.  strain  of  Black  Langshan  Bantams  are 
alive  and  only  weigh  three  pounds  each. 

As  to  how  I  succeeded  in  my  resolve  to  breed  and  establish 
a  strain  of  Black  Langshan  Bantams  I  refer  the  reader  and 
others  interested  to  my  past  exhibits  of  them. 

Wii^LiAM  M.  Hughes, 


CHAPTER  XI. 

PREPARING  FOR  EXHIBITION. 


he;  proper  time  to  begin  preparing  a  bird  for 
exhibition  is  when  selecting  the  parent  bird 
for  the  breeding  pen.     Perfect  health  and  con- 
dition are  quite  as  necessarj'  in  the  parent  bird 
as  in  the  offspring;  the  former  will  not  pro- 
duce healthy  stock  if  in  poor  condition,  un- 
healthy birds  will  not  make  exhibition  birds 
of  true  value,  for  such  birds  will  not  stand  the  preparation 
necessary  to  condition  them  for  competition,  and  without  such 
condition  the  chances  of  \j'inning  are  very  poor. 

After  twenty-five  years  of  experience  in  poultry  exhibitions 
all  over  the  country,  I  am  fully  prepared  to  say  that  the  suc- 
cessful exhibitor  of  fancy  fowls  is  always  either  an  expert  at 
conditioning  birds  or  a  successful  purchaser  from  those  who 
understand  the  art.  Never  in  all  my  experience  have  I  seen  a 
poorly  conditioned  bird  win  in  strong  competition.  When 
this  is  considered  in  its  true  light  we  fully  appreciate  the 
necessity  of  having  exhibition  stock  in  the  highest  show  con- 
dition. This  includes  perfect  health,  perfect  plumage,  high 
condition  of  flesh  (not  overly  fat)  and  perfect  cleanliness  from 
tip  of  comb  to  end  of  toes.  Not  one  single  section  can  be 
overlooked  or  neglected  in  its  preparation,  if  success  is  to 
be  assured. 

To  properl)'  rear  a  bird  for  exhibition  it  must  be  well 
looked  after  from  the  day  it  is  hatched.  It  will  not  answer  to 
allow  them  to  grow  up  as  they  may  and  then  select  the  best  for 
exhibition;  they  must  be  properly  fed,  watered,  housed,  and 
kept  clean  and  free  from  all  insects  and  diseases.  In  Bantams 
they  must  be  fed  quite  enough  to  keep  them  growing  properly, 
but  not  overfed  so  as  to  force  them  to  oversize.  Good  health 
and  condition  must  be  maintained.  And,  above  all,  never 
allow  your  birds  to  run  about  in  the  wet  after  cool  weather  begins 
in  the  fall.     If  perfectly  dry  the  cold  will  not  injure  them. 

When  fully  matured,  handle  Bantams- in  preparation  for 
exhibition  as  follows:  All  smooth  legged  varieties  should  be 
kept  busy  hunting  in  hay  or  straw  for  all  they  get  to  eat.  The 
litter  must  be  clean  and  dry.  This  continued  digging  gives  a 
fine  polish  to  feet,  legs  and  plumage  of  the  birds;  hardens 
their  flesh  and  keeps  them  under  standard  weight.  The 
feather  legged  birds  must  be  continuall}'  watched  to  prevent 
their  scratching  and  destroying  the  feathers  on  their  feet. 
Small  coops  must  be  provided  for  them,  the  floors  of  the  same 
covered  with  clean,  dry  pine  sawdust.  All  food  should  be 
given  in  dishes;  great  care  should  be  taken  not  to  drop  anj'  of 
the  food  on  the  floor  of  the  coop,  for  this  will  induce  them  to 
scratch  and  break  the  foot  feathering.  The  sawdust  must  be  put 
through  a  course  sieve  each  day  to  free  it  from  all  dirt  and 
droppings,  for  thus  onl}'  can  perfect  cleanline.ss  be  observed. 
All  smooth  legged,  close  feathered  varieties  should  have 
their  plumage  polished  at  least  once  a  da}'  with  a  cotton  flan- 
nel cloth  or  a  silk  handkerchief.  This  will  keep  them  per- 
fectly clean  and  free  from  any  bad  condition  of  plumage,  and 
add  luster  and  finish  to  same.  Never  use  oil  of  any  kind  upon 
the  feathers,  for  while  it  looks  well  for  a  few  days,  it  soon 
gathers  dust  and  dirt,  thus  destroying  the  rich  appearance  of 
surface  plumage. 

By  keeping  the  legs  of  your  fowls  perfectly  clean  ami  nicely 
polished  with  a  woolen  cloth  or  chamois  skin,  no  roughness  or 
bad  color  will  appear;  when  neglected  it  takes  so  much  hard 
rubbing  to  make  them  presentable,  that  they  often  have  the 
appearance  of  having  been  scaled  to  the  quick.  When  this  is 
carried  to  excess  and  the  spurs  shelled  it  gives  the  legj  the 
appearance  of  raw  meat.  This  should  count  against  the  speci- 
men in  the  show  pen. 

The  proper  training  for  the  show  pen  is  of  great  impor- 


tance. No  good  excuse  can  be  offered  for  placing  a  wild, 
untrained  specimen  in  the  show  room.  It  is  quite  impossible 
to  properly  consider  the  good  or  bad  points  of  such  applicants 
for  honors;  but  few  of  them  can  be  considered  as  a  factor  in 
a  closely  contested  class.  All  birds  intended  for  show  purposes 
should  be  trained  to  stand  in  the  most  attractive  positions,  and 
be  taught  to  allow  any  one  at  all  times  and  in  all  places  to 
handle  them  and  remove  them  from  their  coops.  When  thus 
taught  to  put  their  best  front  forward,  if  of  good  quality  and 
condition,  all  is  done  that  can  be  done.  Such  a  specimen  has 
considerable  in  its  favor  as  against  one  that  has  no  training 
for  the  show  pen. 

WASHING  FOR  EXHIBITION. 

Almost  every  one  who  has  found  it  necessary  to  wash  his 
fowls  for  exhibition  follows  methods  and  waj'S  of  his  own. 
Some  use  hot  suds  and  a  sponge;  others,  alcohol  to  clean  the 
spots  from  the  plumage,  and  others  brush  the  outside  or  sur- 
face plumage  with  hot  suds  and  a  stiff  brush.  All  these  meth- 
ods %re  good,  if  the}'  succeed. 

My  plan  is  as  follows:  Fill  a  tub,  (or  bucket  of  the 
proper  size  to  meet  the  demands  for  room  according  to  the 
size  of  the  bird  to  be  washed),  with  warm  water.  First 
wash  head,  comb,  face  and  wattles  with  a  small  hand  brush; 
use  a  verj'  little  soap  for  same.  Next  scrub  feet  and  legs  very 
clean  with  same  brush.  If  the  fowl  has  feathers  on  legs  and 
feet,  wash  quite  clean  with  plenty  of  soap.  When  these  parts 
are  perfectly  clean  put  the  whole  bod}'  of  the  fowl  into  the 
water  and  thoroughly  soften  the  feathers.  As  soon  as  the 
feathers  are  well  soaked  with  the  water  rub  them  through  and 
through  with  plenty  of  soap;  use  your  hands  and  fingers  for 
this.  Work  the  soap  well  into  the  skin;  wash  them  as  if  you 
wished  to  get  every  spot  of  dirt  off  the  skin.  When  satisfied 
that  the  under  plumage  and  skin  has  been  well  cleaned  by 
thoroughly  washing  every  spot  with  your  fingers,  then  wash 
the  surface  plumage  with  your  hands  and  plenty  of  soap. 
When  satisfied  that  all  has  been  well  washed  dip  the  whole 
bird  under  water  and  with  your  hands  wash  the  feathers 
thoroughly  and  free  them  as  much  as  possible  from  the  soap. 
Then  thoroughly  rinse  in  a  tub  or  bucket  of  clean,  warm  water. 
When  the  feathers  are  perfectly  free  from  all  soap  and  dirt, 
then  plunge  the  whole  bird  into  clean,  cold  water.  When  re- 
moved from  this  dry  the  feathers  as  much  as  possible  with 
cloths  or  towels.  Always  rub  the  proper  way  of  the  feathers. 
When  as  much  water  as  possible  is  worked  from  the  feathers 
in  this  way,  take  the  fowl  by  the  legs,  allow  its  head  to  hang 
down  and  swing  gently  so  the  wings  will  flap  and  plumage 
be  loosened. 

The  most  important  part  of  the  operation  is  the  proper 
drying  of  the  plumage.  The  best  way  to  dry  the  plumage  is 
to  place  the  bird  in  a  very  hot  room;"  a  room  that  is  heated 
with  steam  is  the  best.  If  the  hot  room  is  not  convenient 
place  the  bird  in  a  coop  close  to  a  warm  stove  or  open  fire. 
Great  care  must  be  used  not  to  allow  the  face  or  comb  to  blister 
before  the  hot  fire.  To  properly  dry  the  plumage  the  fowl 
must  be  kept  in  a  very  warm  place  till  perfectly  dry.  The 
feathers  must  be  all  quite  dry  through  and  through,  or  they 
will  stick  together  and  look  very  bad.  If  dried  quickly  in  a 
very  warm  room  the  feathers  will  well  out  nicely  and  look 
beautiful  and  fresh.  If  poorly  done  they  will  look'worse  than 
before.  It  is  better  to  make  the  first  attempt  at  washing  a 
fowl  with  one  of  little  value.  Do  not  experiment  with  one  of 
your  best  fowls.  Learn  the  lessou  first  and  then  work  with 
the  exhibition  stock,  .\lways  put  some  blue  in  the  rinse  water 
for  white  fowls,  about  as  you  would  for  white  clothes. 

When  preparing  birds  for  exhibition  remember  that  fine 
condition  goes  far  towards  their  winning,  and  nothing  helps 
more  than  perfectly  clean  plumage,  legs  and  feet;  so  in  pre- 
paring them  use  great  care  in  washing  any  part  that  may  need 
cleansing,  or,  if  necessary,  the  whole  bird. 


CHAPTER  Xli. 


DISEASES  OF  BANTAMS. 


How  to  Prevent  and  Cure  Them. 


ANTAMS  when  young  have  many  dangers  con- 
I      "^TS    fronting  them.     Being  so  small,  of  necessity  they 

are  tender  and  delicate.     Sudden  changes  of  the 

weather  during  the  night  will  often  cause  them 
to  droop  and  look  out  of  good  condition,  but  with 
care  they  will  prosper  as  well  as  their  larger 
relations.  To  prevent  disease  be  positively  cer- 
tain that  the  parent  birds  have  no  taint  of  any  kind  about  them. 
Positive  absence  of  all  disease  in  the  breeding  stock  is  first  to 
be  considered.  When  the  eggs  are  set  under  the  hen,  she  and 
the  nest  must  both  be  perfectly  free  from  dirt  or  lice,  and  the 
hen  must  be  in  perfect  health.  To  make  doubly  sure,  dust  the 
hen  well  with  insect  powder  (Persian  is  the  best)  before  placing 
her  on  the  eggs,  and  again  one  week  before  due  to  hatch. 
This  should  destroy  all  insect  life;  but  do  not  trust  it.  In 
addition  give  the  hen  a  good  dust  ta'.h  for  her  use  during 
incubating;  and  when  the  chicks  are  hatched  look  sharp  for 
their  first  enemy,  the  head  louse,  usually  to  be  found,  if  pres- 
ent, on  top  of  the  head.  They  may  locate  on  the  neck.  If 
none  are  present  you  may  conclude  the  chick  is  safe  for  a  week 
from  them.  When  any  are  found,  paint  well  the  head  and 
neck  with  melted  lard,  a  little  warm — not  hot.  Use  small, 
stiff,  flat  brush,  and  be  sure  the  head  and  neck  are  oiled  well 
to  the  skin.  This  will  destroy  all  that  may  be  present;  but 
keep  a  close  watch  against  their  return. 

More  young  Bantams  die  from  diarrhea  than  from  all 
other  causes.  People  usually'  concede  that  the  food  they  eat 
is  the  cause  of  the  disease;  they  change  the  diet,  and  then  won- 
der what  makes  the  trouble.  Nine  times  out  of  ten  it  is  caused 
by  taking  cold  in  some  way;  bad  or  sour  food  will  cause  it; 
want  of  grit  or  too  much  water  after  a  long  thirst  will  produce 
the  same  result.  The  best  remedy  is  to  give  them  special  care 
.  so  that  none  of  the  above  causes  will  exist.  Should  the  chicks 
be  so  affected,  clear  all  obstruction  from  the  vent  by  removing 
the  soiled  down  with  a  pair  of  scissors,  using  great  care  not  to 
cut  the  skin.  Anoint  with  fresh  olive  oil  and  feed  dry  cooked 
food.  Always  provide  plenty  of  good,  sharp  sand,  or  very 
small  grit  for  them.  I  feed  nothing  but  Spratt's  Bantam  Food 
and  bread  crumbs  until  they  are  over  three  weeks  old. 

The  next  trouble  for  the  little  Bantam  is  cold.  Until 
fully  feathered  they  are  very  susceptible  to  changes  in  the 
weather.  Cold,  damp  days  and  nights  often  work  havoc 
among  them.  The  only  sure  preventive  for  this  is  to  house 
them  in  a  well-constructed  coop,  having  a  covered  run,  where 
they  can  enjoy  partial  freedom  during  bad  weather.  When 
affected  feed  warm,  rich  food,  keep  them  dry,  and  tie  a  lump 
of  camphor  and  a  small  stone  in  a  piece  of  white  muslin  and 
drop  this  into  their  drinking  water.  The  stone  is  for  a  sinker; 
camphor  is  good  for  cold  in  all  cases.  If  Bantams  are  kept 
free  from  lice,  cold  and  dampness,  and  properly  fed  and 
watered,. they  will  be  free  from  every  disease. 

ROUP. 

This  name  is  applied  to  all  stages  of  the  ailment,  from  a 
slight  cold  to  the  most  disgusting  diphtheritic  condition. 
Sometime  since  a  statement  appeared  in  one  of  our  journals, 
■  saying  that  young  chicks  never  have  the  roup.  The  author  has 
discovered  that  the  above  is  incorrect.  Being  asked  to  look 
at  a  brood  of  chicks  that  were  hatched  where  no  other  chickens 


had  been  for  several  years,  he  found  them  to  be  about  three 
weeks  old  and  affected  with  roup  and  canker  of  the  very  worst 
kind — eyes  swollen  and  an  offensive  discharge  from  the  nostrils. 
This  proves  that  it  can  come  at  anj-  time.  No  doubt  such  cases 
start  from  diseased  parent  birds. 

How  to  cure  roup  is  a  question  hard  to  settle.  If  in  the 
stage  of  a  slight  cold,  clean  the  mouth,  throat,  nostrils  and 
head  with  warm  water  and  soap,  rinse  well  with  warm  water 
and  vinegar,  half  of  each.  Take  a  small  syringe  and  force 
some  of  this  warm  mixture  through  both  nostrils  till  well 
cleaned.  Follow  this  with  an  injection  of  olive  oil.  Place 
the  bird  in  warm,  dry  quarters  and  feed  soft  food.  If  this  does 
not  improve  the  patient  and  it  grows  worse  you  will  save  time 
by  destroying  the  specimen  and  burning  the  carcass. 

Another  treatment  is  to  cleanse  them  as  above  and  give 
Aconite  or  Arsenicum.  Others  say  Spongia  in  their  drinking 
water  is  a  good  remedy.  All  these  methods  will  help  some  of 
those  afflicted  with  the  disease;  but  when  the  case  is  so  bad 
that  they  grow  worse  each  day  under  such  care,  it  is  better  to 
kill  them. 

I  have  seen  specimens  cured  by  dipping  the  head  in  a  can 
of  oil  (kerosene.)  This  will  also  remove  all  the  feathers 'from 
the  head,  but  they  come  again.  So  many  call  a  simple  cold 
the  roup.  Usually  when  cured  by  any  reasonable  means'  it  is 
a  simple  cold,  but  real  roup  in  a  fowl  is  as  bad  as  diphtheria 
in  a  child  and  as  hard  to  cure. 

The  following  on  disease  is  printed  by  permission  of  Dr. 
Wm.  Y.  Fox,  of  Taunton,  Mass.; 

COLD. 

A  common  cold  is  probably  the  most  prevalent  disease  the 
human  family  is  subject  to,  and  the  same  is  true  of  Bantams. 
The  first  sj'mptom  is  sneezing,  then  a  discharge  of  clear, 
watery  fluid  from  the  nostrils  and  eyes;  later,  a  slight  loss  of 
appetite  and  general  dumpishness. 

In  itself  a  cold  is  of  little  consequence,  but,  as  it  is  often 
the  forerunner  of  roup,  it  must  not  be  neglected.  Cold  is  gen- 
erally caused  by  drafts  blowing  across  the  roosts  at  night,  or 
by  filthy  quarters.  It  may  also  be  caused  by  dampness  in  the 
house  or  runs,  or  too  much  exposure  to  bad  weather.  Bantams 
can  be  allowed  in  their  yards  in  very  cold  weather  if  the 
ground  is  free  from  snow  and  mud,  but  they  are  much  better 
off  in  the  house  if  there  is  mud  or  snow  on  the  ground,  or  if  it 
is  stormy.  In  this  respect  they  certainly  require  more  care 
than  the  large  varieties.  The  prevention  of  colds  lies  in  keep- 
ing the  flock  in  clean,  tight,  dry  quarters. 

The  treatment  is  very  simple.  If  only  one  or  two  are 
affected  remove  them  from  the  rest  and  place  in  a  coop  where 
they  will  be  warm  and  free  from  drafts.  Get  some  camphor- 
ated oil,  at  any  drug  store,  and  with  a  small  glass  syringe 
inject  it  into  the  nostrils  twice  a  day.  This  will  generally 
effect  a  cure  within  a  few  days.  If  many  of  the  flock  are 
afflicted  in  this  way  it  will  be  impracticable  to  treat  separately, 
and  the  first  thing  to  do  is  to  find  and  remove  the  cause  of  the 
illness.  Having  done  this,  keep  a  small  piece  of  gum  camphor 
in  the  drinking  water  and  watch  carefully  for  further  symp- 
toms. Do  not  allow  the  nostrils  to  become  plugged  by  a  crust, 
as  they  ofen  will,  because  the  discharge  will  be  held  back  and 
act  as  poison. 


42 


tHE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


After  the  nostrils  have  been  obstructed  a  day  or  two  the  head 
will  begin  to  swell  and  before  we  know  it  we  have  a  case  of 
roup  to  deal  with.  The  injection  of  camphorated  oil  as  already 
directed  will  usually  keep  the  nostrils  free  and  open. 
ROUP. 
This  is  a  contagious  disease,  and  generally  begins  as  a 
simple  cold.  It  is  often  fatal,  and  is  much  to  be  dreaded  as  it 
will  sometimes  go  through  the  whole  flock  before  the  owner 
is  aware  that  there  is  any  serious  trouble  It  is  difficult  to  say 
just  when  a  cold  turns  into  roup,  but  when  the  discharge  from 
the  nostrils  and  eyes  becomes  thick  and  sticky,  and  of  an 
offensive  odor,  you  may  be  sure  that  you  have  a  case  of  roup. 
The  next  symptom  is  swelling  of  the  head  and  eyes;  frequently 
the  eyelids  will  stick  together,  and  if  washed  apart  a  large 
amount  of  fetid  matter  will  escape.  As  these  symptoms  increase 
the  bird  i%  growing  sicker  all  the  time,  more  dumpish  and  has 
little  or  no  appetite. 

Roup  may  be  prevented  by  good  care  and  prompt  treat- 
ment of  every  cold,  but  above  all  by  care  in  introducing  new 
birds  into  the  flock.  Whenever  you  buy  a  new  hen  keep  her 
in  quarantine  at  least  two  weeks,  until  you  are  sure  she  is  in 
perfect  health,  before  exposing  your  stock  to  the  danger  of 
contagion.  Bantams  oi  a  strong,  vigorous  constitution,  prop- 
erly housed  and  fed,  will  never  have  roup,  unless  they  catch  it 
from  some  diseased  fowl  carelessly  introduced  into  their  house. 
Probably  the  most  common  way  for  the  disease  to  be  trans- 
mitted from  one  to  another,  is  through  the  drinking  water.  Be 
careful  to  thoroughly  clean  and  scald  any  drinking  vessel  that 
has  been  used  by  any  sick  Bantam,  before  using  it  again.  It 
is  doubtful  whether  the  disease  can  be  carried  in  the  air,  but 
give  the  well  birds  the  benefit  of  the  doubt  and  confine  diseased 
ones  in  separate  houses  or  rooms.  It  is  unwise  to  keep  an 
invalid  in  a  room  with  a  fire,  unless  you  are  prepared  to  keep 
him  there  until  warm  weather,  for  it  will  never  be  safe  to 
return  the  convalescent  patient  to  the  unheated  house  after  he 
has  had  the  luxury  of  a  fire. 

The  treatment  of  roup  is,  in  the  main,  very  unsatisfactory, 
although,  if  begun  soon  enough  it  may  save  a  valuable  speci- 
men. Keep  the  nostrils,  eyes  and  throat  as  clean  as  possible.' 
Get  a  bottle  of  listerine  at  any  drug  store,  and  put  a  table- 
spoonful  into  a  glass  of  warm  water.  Inject  into  the  nostrils, 
swab  the  throat  and  wash  the  head  and  eyes  with  it  two  or 
three  times  a  day  for  the  first  four  or  five  days.  Feed  with 
soft  cooked  food  and  milk. 

If  this  treatment  makes  no  improvement  in  the  patient, 
kill  him  and  burn  his  carcass.  This  is  the  kindest  and  best 
advice  that  can  be  given,  for,  although  he  may  recover  after 
weeks  of  dosing  and  pampering,  he  will  still  be  a  weak  bird 
and  the  sightest  exposure  will  start  a  discharge  from  the  nos- 
trils, which  may  contain  the  germs  of  roup  and  be  sufficient  to 
cause  the  disease  in  the  flock  to  which  he  belongs. 

A  Bantam  that  has  once  had  a  genuine  severe  atrack  of 
roup  is  never  fit  to  breed  from,  as  his  offspring  will  be  sickly, 
puny  chicks  nine  times  out  of  ten.  If  you  are  unwilling  to 
take  this  advice,  as  you  probably  will  be  until  you  have  tried 
to  cure  roup  yourself,  the  next  best  thing  to  do  is  to  continue 
to  keep  head  and  nostrils  as  clean  as  possible.  Stop  the  acon- 
ite and  give  one  grain  of  sulphate  of  quinine  three  times  a  day, 
and  all  the  milk  and  whisky  you  can  pour  down,  every  three 
or  four  hours.  By  this  time  your  pet  will  not  eat  and  his 
strength  must  be  kept  up  by  forcing  the  whisky  and  milk. 
Should  your  efforts  prove  successful  and  the  bird  begins  to 
mend,  leave  off  the  whisky  and  quinine  very  gradually  and 
put  enough  tincture  of  chloride  of  iron  into  the  drinking 
water  to  give  a  decided  brown  color;  feed  good  cooked  food 
and  a  little  meat  once  a  day. 

CANKER  OR  DIPHTHERITIC  ROUP. 
This  is  a  frequent  accompaniment  of  ordinary  roup,  and  is 
probably  a  different  manifestation  of  the  same  disease.     It  is 


highly  contagious  to  other  fowl  and  possibly  to  man.  Cases 
are  reported  where  children  have  probably  contracted  diph- 
theria from  fowls  sick  with  canker,  and  also  where  poultry 
that  have  had  access  to  discharges  from  diphtheria  patients 
have  sickness  with  canker.  The  one  distinguishing  symptom 
of  canker  is  the  appearance  in  the  mouth  or  throat  of  a  white 
or  yellowish  white  cheesy  membrane.  This  may  appear  dur- 
ing the  course  of  ordinary  roup,  or  may  come  on  suddenly  in 
an  apparently  healthy  fowl.  At  the  first  onset  one  or  more 
white  spots,  about  the  size  of  a  pin  head,  may  be  seen  either 
on  the  roof  of  the  mouth  or  under  the  tongue,  or,  quite  often 
around  the  opening  to  the  wind  pipe.  These  spots  grow  ver^- 
rapidly  until,  often  times,  the  whole  mouth  is  filled  with  a 
membrane  that  is  usually  glistening  white,  sometimes  yellow- 
ish. When  torn  off  it  leaves  a  bleeding  surface  beneath.  It 
is  of  very  offensive  odor.  If  this  membrane  extends  into  the 
wind  pipe  the  patient  will  soon  die  of  suffocation.  This  is  a 
disease  that  can  not  be  mistaken,  as  the  appearance  of  the 
membrane  is  very  characteristic. 

The  remarks  on  the  cause  and  prevention  of  roup  apply 
especially  to  canker  and  need  not  be  repeated.  The  general 
treatment  is  also  the  same,  but  the  local  treatment  is  different. 
Instead  of  washing  out  nostrils  and  mouth  attempts  must  be 
made  to  remove  the  membrane.  This  is  often  done  by  scrap- 
ing with  a  piece  of  pine  wood  whittled  to  a  convenient  shape. 
.\fter  removing  all  that  can  be  removed,  without  excessive 
bleeding,  the  parts  should  be  powdered  over  with  alum.  A 
better  way  is  to  apply  peroxide  of  hydrogen  in  full  strength 
directly  to  the  membrane,  which  will  soon  be  eaten  away  with 
much  less  bleeding  than  in  the  other  proceeding.  After  using 
the  peroxide  a  few  minutes,  apply  tincture  of  the  chloride  of 
iron  in  full  strength.  The  mouth  can  be  pretty  well  cleaned 
by  either  method,  but  the  membrane  soon  returns  and  the 
process  must  be  repeated  often.  When  the  membrane  is  in 
the  wind  pipe  it  has  to  be  left  to  nature,  and  almost  always 
proves  fatal. 

CHOLERA. 
At  the  present  day  this  is  an  extremely  rare  disease  in  the 
United  States.  It  is  the  most  contagious  of  the  diseases  of 
poultry,  generally  killing  the  whole  flock  when  it  once  gets  a 
foothold.  It  is  always  caused  by  contact  with  a  previous  case, 
never  originating  in  a  yard  without  such  contact  or  exposure. 
The  symptoms  are  excessive  diarrhea,  first  of  a  black 
substance  as  thick  as  tar,  later  by  a  thin,  watery  fluid  which 
smells  putrid.  There  is  very  rapid  emaciation  and  prostra- 
tion, death  frequently  occurring  within  thirty-six  hours  after 
the  commencement  of  the  disease.  There  is  no  treatment; 
kill  and  cremate. 

DIARRHEA 
This  is  quite  frequent,  and  is  sometimes  mistaken  for 
cholera,  but  cholera  is  so  very  rapid  that  this  mistake  ought 
not  to  be  made.  Diarrhea  is  usually  caused  by  improper  food, 
impure  water,  by  sudden  changes  in  temperature  or  exposure  to 
cold  and  wet.  Individual  mild  cases  require  no  treatment,  as 
they  will  soon  recover.  In  severe  cases,  remove  the  patient  to  a 
coop,  keep  without  food  for  twenty-four  hours,  keep  lime 
water  before  it  instead  of  clear  water,  .\fter  twenty-four 
hours  give  a  little  bread,  soaked  in  boiled  milk.  Let  this  be 
the  only  food  until  diarrhea  ceases.  When  there  are  a  num- 
ber of  cases  in  the  flock,  be  sure  there  is  something  wrong  in 
food  or  drink.  Search  carefully  for  this  cause  and  remove  it. 
CROP  BOUND. 
This  is  quite  common  in  Bantams,  and  if  not  properly 
treated  is  very  apt  to  prove  fatal.  The  first  symptom  is  a  con- 
stant effort  to  swallow.  The  neck  is  stretched  out,  the  mouth 
opened,  and  the  hen  acts  the  way  you  often  see  a  little  chick 
act  when  trying  to  get  down  a  worm  one  size  larger  than  his 
gullet. 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


43 


The  patient  acts  dumpish  and  stands  in  a  peculiar  posi- 
tion with  the  breast  bone  pitched  forward  and  down.  He  is 
hungry  and  will  keep  eating  until  his  crop  is  filled  full  and  as 
hard  as  a  stone.  If  you  suspect  that  you  have  a  case  of  crop 
bound  place  the  subject  where  he  can  not  eat  for  twenty-four 
hours  and  then  feel  his  crop;  if  it  is  hard,  or  harder  than 
when  he  was  shut  up,  your  suspicions  are  confirmed. 

This  trouble  is  caused  by  a  plugging  up  of  the  outlet  of  the 
crop  with  some  particle  of  food,  such  as  a  long,  ribbon-like 
piece  of  hay  or  grass.  It  ma}'  be  caused  by  overeating,  as 
when  fowls  get  access  to  the  grain  bin  and  then  drink  a  lot  of 
water.  The  cause  in  this  case  is,  probably,  not  so  much 
obstruction  of  the  outlet  as  it  is  a  paralysis  of  the  muscles  of 
the  crop  from  overdistension.  This  is  rather  an  unusual 
form  of  crop  bound  and  is  merely  mentioned  to  point  this 
moral;  when  you  know  your  Bantams  have  enormously  over- 
eaten, deprive  them  of  water  until  their  crops  are,  at  least,  half 
empty.  ,'  There  is  no  way  to  prevent  the  other  or  obstructive 
form. 

■  The  treatment  is  the  same  in  either  case;  empty  the  crop. 
This  can  sometimes  be  done  by  pouring  castor  oil  down  the 
throat  and  working  the  mass  in  the  crop  around  with  the  fin- 
gers. Try  this  about  three  times,  two  or  three  hours  apart.  If 
by  that  time  the  mass  is  not  softened  it  is  time  to  resort  to  sur- 
gery. Remove  the  feathers  from  a  space  the  size  of  a  silver 
dollar  directly  over  the  crop.  With  a  clean,  sharp  knife  make 
a  cut  one  and  one-half  inches  long  through  the  skin;  pull  the 
wound  along  about  half  an  inch  and  with  a  second  cut  go 
directly  through  into  the  crop.  With  a  spoon  handle  scoop 
out  the  contents  thoroughly.  Either  see  or  feel  the  outlet  of 
the  crop,  so  as  to  remove  any  obstruction  there  maj'  be  there. 
Wash  the  inside  of  the  crop  and  the  wound  with  warm  water, 
to  which  a  little  salt  has  been  added.  With  a  neddleful  of 
white  silk  sew  up  the  crop  and  then  the  skin. 

Give  no  food  or  drink  for  thirty-six  hours,  then  give  a  little 
bread  soaked  in  milk.  Feed  carefully  for  a  week;  by  that  time 
the  little  fellow  will  be  all  right,  that  is,  supposing  the  relief 
to  have  6een  given  soon  enough.  For,  if  the  mass  in  the  crop 
has  fermented  badly,  as  it  will  in  three  or  four  days,  it  will  have 
excited  so  much  inflammation  that  the  operation  does  no  good. 
Do  not  delay  in  a  case  of  crop  bound  as  twenty-four  hours 
frequently  make  the  difference  between  saving  and  losing  a 
valuable  bird. 

LEG  WEAKNESS. 

This  is  most  common  in  growing  chickens  and  is  shown 
by  inability  to  stand  up.  The  chicken  appears  hungry,  and 
all  right  in  every  way,  except  that  it  tries  to  get  around  on  its 
hock  joints  instead  of  its  feet.  This  occurs  either  while  the 
first  feathers  or  the  second  are  growing.  It  is  due  to  defective 
nutrition  and  is  analogous  to  what  we  frequently  term  in 
children  as  growing  too  fast  for  their  strength.  The  remedy  is 
to  change  the  diet,  giving  more  meat  and  cut  bone,  something 
to  make  more  muscle.  Take  care  that  the  other  chicks  do  not 
prevent  the  weak  one  from  getting  any  food  at  all.  With  a 
little  care  these  casesrecover  in  a  few  days. 

In  the  full  grown  Bantam  a  similar  condition  is  often  seen, 
although  not  so  often  as  in  the  heavy  breeds,  and  is  more  apt 
to  be  due  to  rheumatism  or  cramp,  the  result  of  dampness  or 
exposure.  The  remedy  in  these  cases. is  to  place  the  patient 
in  a  dry  coop  and  feed  well,  at  the  same  time  rubbing  the  legs 
well  with  any  good  liniment. 

SCALY  LEGS. 
This  is  a  most  disgusting  affection  and  its  presence  in  a 
flock  is  a  sure  sign  of  laziness  or  indifference  on  the  part  of 
the  owner.  It  is  caused  by  a  parasite,  and  is,  therefore,  a  con- 
tagious disease.  When  it  first  appears  the  shanks  and  toes 
become  covered  with  a  dry  scaly  substance  which  increases 
quite  fast  until  it  forms  crusts  so  thick  as  to  obscure  entirely 


the  original  shape  and  color  of  the  legs.  It  is  most  common 
among  the  feathered  legged  varieties,  and  spreads  much  faster 
in  damp,  filthy  quarters  than  in  clean,  dry  ones. 

The  treatment  is  very  simple,  but  is  also  very  effective. 
Apply  thoroughl}',  with  the  fingers,  some  carbolized  vaseline 
to  every  part  of  the  shanks  and  toes.  Repeat  every  two  days 
until  the  legs  are  clean.  Each  time  it  is  found  that  consider- 
able scale  may  be  rubbed  off  with  the  fingers,  and  it  is  advis- 
able to  remove  all  that  will  come  off  without  causing  bleeding. 
In  mild  cases  three  applications  is  enough  to  effect  a  cure. 
In  severe  ones  it  may  take  six  or  seven,  and,  in  such  cases,  it 
is  well  to  repeat  twice  a  month  for  three  or  four  months  after 
the  case  is  apparently  cured,  as  it  otherwise  is  very  liable  to 
return. 

LICE. 

If  you  have  had  no  experience  with  poultry  you  will 
probabl}'  smile  when  you  see  lice  classed  among  the  diseases, 
but  after  one  or  two  broods  have  succumbed  to  their  ravages, 
and  the  grown  fowls  all  look  as  if  they  were  in  the  last  stages 
of  consumption,  you  will  admit  that  the  little  vermin  are 
worthy  of  the  first  place  in  the  list  of  diseases. 

There  are  several  varieties  of  lice  which  infest  the  hen 
house.  There  is  the  common  white  or  gray  louse,  which  is 
the  largest  and  stick  to  the  fowl  day  and  night.  The  same 
variety  is  found  on  young  chicks  and  is  commonly  called  the 
head  louse  because  oftenest  found  on  the  head  and  fastened  to 
the  skin  like  a  leach.  Then  there  is  the  red  louse,  or  red 
mJte,  which  works  only  at  night.  During  the  day  he  will  be 
found  under  or  on  the  roosting  pole,  or  on  the  sides  of  the 
house.  He  is  bright  red,  round  and  rather  smaller  than  the 
head  of  a  pin.  Frequently  these  mites  will  congregate  on  a 
part  of  the  wall  so  thick  that  one  would  think  the  wall  was 
covered  with  fresh  blood. 

There  is  also  a  brown  louse,  larger  than  the  red  and  not 
so  large  as  the  white.  The  habits  of  this  are  similar  to  both 
the  others,  that  is  to  say,  many  will  leave  the  fowl  in  the  day 
time  and  be  found  in  the  house,  but  some  of  the  more  greedy 
will  keep  at  work  day  and  night.  This  is  the  kind  that  both- 
ers the  sitting  hen  the  most.  Sometimes  she  is  compelled  to 
leave  her  eggs,  and,  in  such  instances,  one  looking  into  the 
nest  will  see  no  eggs  there,  as  they  will  be  completely  cov 
ered  with  a  mass  of  the  dirty  brown  lice. 

The  symptoms  produced  by  lice  are  unmistakable,  where 
one  has  once  become  acquainted  with  them.  In  a  fowl  there 
is  ruffled  plumage,  white  comb,  great  uneasiness  and  emacia- 
tion. In  chicks  there  is  weakness  and  drooping,  sometimes 
diarrhea  and  a  peculiar,  characteristic  look  about  the  head,  as 
if  the  beak  had  been  pulled  on  and  the  head  elongated.  The 
proof  that  the  symptoms  are  caused  by  lice  is  to  see  the 
enemy. 

In  this  connection  a  very  good  answer  appeared  in  the 
notes  and  queries  of  a  recent  poultry  paper.  The  question 
was  like  this:  "What  is  the  matter  with  my  chickens,  they 
have  such  and  such  symptoms?"  Answer,  "Look  for  lice,  and 
if  you  find  them  remove  by  doing  thus  and  so.  If  you  do  not 
find  any  do  just  the  same,  for  they  are  there,  only  you  do  not 
know  how  to  look  for  them." 

In  looking  for  lice  on  fowl,  look  close  to  the  skin  around 
the  vent  and  under  wings;  on  chicks,  examine  head  and  under 
wings;  in  the  house,  look  on  under  side  of  roost  and  into  all 
the  cracks  and  crevices. 

The  prevention  and  treatment  are  identical.  Keep  drop- 
ping-board  clean  in  hot  weather;  sprinkle  slaked  lime  over  it 
occasionally.  Have  the  roosts  and  dropping-board  arranged 
so  that  they  can  easily  be  removed.  Take  them  out  in  the 
yard  twice  a  month,  in  summer,  and  paint  them  all  over  with 
kerosene,  at  the  same  time  paint  walls  and  cracks  near  where 
roosts  belong.     That  same  night  go  into  the  house  and  sprinkle 


44 


THE  BANTAM  FOWL. 


a  little  Lambert's  Death  to  Lice  over  the  back  of  each  hen. 
Clean  out  the  nest  boxes  and  paint  inside  and  out  with  kero- 
sene. Refill  with  clean  nesting  material  and  sprinkle  a  little 
Lambert's  Death  to  Lice  in  it.  Never  set  a  hen  without 
dusting  both  her  and  the  nest  thoroughly  with  the  same 
powder,and  repeat  at  least  three  times  while  she  is  sitting. 
When  the  chicks  hatch,  welcome  them  with  a  good  dose  of 
Lambert's,  and  repeat,  at  least  once  a  week,  for  the  first  two 
months  of  their  lives.  There  are  probably  other  insecticides 
as  good  as  Lambert's  Death  to  Lice,  but  I  have  never  seen 
them,  and  as  I  know  that  that  will  do  the  work,  I  do  not 
hesitate  to  recommend  it. 

If  the  chicks  are  badly  infested  with  head  lice,  the  quickest 
way  to  relieve  them  is  to  apply  a  ver)-  little  vaseline  to  the  top 
of  their  heads  and  under  their  wings.  After  one  application 
of  this  the  free  use  of  Death  to  Lice  will  keep  them  away.  Do 
not  forget  to  keep  the  chicken  coops  cleau,  as  filth  is  the  very 
best  place  for  breeding  lice 

You  can  not  breed  Bantam  chicks  and  lice  in  the  same 
place  and  at  the  same  time.  If  you  doubt  this,  give  a  lousy 
hen  a  nice  brood  of  little  chicks  and  see  the  result.  After  one 
practical  lesson  of  this  kind  the  most  skeptical  will  be  willing 
to  go  to  a  great  deal  of  trouble  to  keep  his  chicks  free  from 
vermin. 

GAPES. 

This  is  an  affection  seen  only  in  young  chicks  from  the 
third  week  to  about  the  third  month.  It  is,  fortunately,  not 
common  in  moderate  climates,  although  said  to  be  quite  prev- 
alent in  the  south. 

Gapes  is  caused  by  the  presence  in  the  wind-pipe  of  one  or 
more  thread-like  worms.  These  little  worms  attach  them- 
selves to  the  lining  membrane  of  the  wind-pipe  and  cause  it  to 
swell  so  that  it  fills  the  whole  caliber  of  the  pipe  and  the  chick 
dies  from  suffocation.  The  principal  symptom  is  gaping.  The 
chick  stretches  his  neck  and  opens  his  mouth  to  its  fullest 
extent.  He  does  this  repeatedly  and  soon  refuses  to  eat, 
becomes  dumpish,  and,  if  not  relieved,  dies.  The  only  pre- 
ventive is  absolute  cleanliness  about  the  coops  and  )'ards. 

The  treatment  of  gapes  is  not  very  satisfactory.  It  con- 
sists in  removing  the  worms  from  the  wind-pipe.  This  can  be  ■ 
accomplished  by  means  of  an  instrument  known  as  the  gape 
worm  extractor.  The  operation  requires  some  skill  and  more 
patience.  When  a  large  number  have  to  be  treated  the  treat- 
ment is  wholesale,  so  to  speak,  and  the  usual  method  is  to 
smoke  the  worms  out.  The  chicks  are  shut  in  a  tight  box, 
which  is  then  filled  with  the  fumes  of  burning  sulphur  or 
carbolic  acid,  or  with  finely  powdered  slacked  lime.  The 
trouble  with  this  method  is  that  the  worms  will  stand  about 
as  much  as  the  chicks  will,  and  you  will  be  very  lucky  if  you 
can  stop  at  just  the  right  moment,  that  is,  when  the  worms 
are  killed  and  before  the  chicks  are.  Chickens  that  have  had 
gapes  are  feeble  and  debilitated  for  a  long  time,  and  perhaps 
you  will  be  more  lucky,  on  the  whole,  if  your  smoke  kills  both 
chicks  and  worms. 

Better  direct  your  energies  to  stopping  the  spread  of  gapes 
than  to  doctoring  those  already  affected.  Take  all  the  sick 
and  place  tliem  in  a  clean,  dry  coop,  with  sand  and  air-slacked 
lime  on  the  floor.  Take  the  rest  of  the  brood  and  all  the 
chicks  that  have  had  access  to  the  same  yard,  put  them  into 
quarters  by  themselves  and  watch  very  sharph^  so  as  to 
remove  each  one  to  the  hospital  coop  as  soon  as  it  shows  a 
symptom.  Be  sure  that  any  chicks  that  have  not  been  exposed 
to  danger  are  kept  away  from  the  infected  yard,  from  the 
quarantined  chicks,  and,  of  course,  from  the  sick  ones,  until 
llie  disease  is  thoroughly  stamped  out. 

The  infected  coops  and  yards  must  be  disiufected.  A 
good  way  to  do  this  is  as  follows:  Burn  all  old  coops  that  are 
not  of  much  value;  mix  a  hogshead  of  corrosive  sublimate  of 


strength  1  to  2000;  heat  to  boiling  point  enough  of  this  solu- 
tion to  saturate  every  part  of  the  coops.  Sprinkle  the  rest  of 
the  solution  over  the  ground.  When  the  coops  are  dry  give  a 
good  coat  of  whitewash.  Sprinkle  air-slacked  lime  over  the 
ground  until  no  earth  can  be  seen.  Leave  alone  for  two  weeks 
and  then  spade  and  sow  down  to  grass.  Put  no  chicks  into 
this  yard  for  two  years.  Fowl  may  be  kept  in  it  after  the  grass 
is  grown,  if  necessary,  but  no  chicks. 

PIP. 

This  is  a  disease  of  young  chickens  and  is  practically  a 
cold.  It  occurs  oftenest  in  chicks  whose  parents  have  had 
roup,  or  have  been  inbred  too  much.  It  is  sometimes  caused 
by  damp  and  filthy  coops. 

Treatment:  Give  dry,  cleau  quarters,  and  wash  mouth 
and  nostrils  with  a  weak  solution  of  chlorate  of  potash. 

CHICKEN  POX. 

This  is  a  highly  contagious  disease  which  affects  both  old 
and  }Oung.  It  is  rather  rare.  It  is  chaiacterized  by  black, 
hard  warts  or  growths  on  the  head  and  face. 

The  only  treatment  is  to  quarantine  and  keep  the  warts 
greased  well  with  carbolized  vaseline.  Fowls  will  generally 
recover  and  be  as  good  as  ever,  while  chicks  almost  always 
succumb  within  a  week  or  two  after  they  are  taken. 

GOING  LIGHT. 

This  is  not  a  verj-  definite  term,  and  the  condition  to  which 
it  is  applied  is  also  called  consumption,  scrofula,  congestion 
of  the  liver  and  inflammation.  It  occurs  occasionally  in  flocks 
that  have  the  best  of  care,  so  it  seems  there  is  no  sure  way  to 
prevent  it. 

It  is  undoubtedly  a  disease  of  digestive  organs,  possibly 
the  liver.  Autopsies  often  show  a  liver  rather  too  large,  but 
no  other  abnormal  condition  visible  to  the  naked  eye.  The 
symptoms  are  great  emaciation,  extreme  palor  of  the  face  and 
comb,  ruffling  of  feathers  and  general  dumpishness.  During 
the  first  of  it  the  appetite  is  fairly  good,  but  later  disappears 
entirely. 

When  the  disease  attacks  a  chicken  that  is  getting  its 
second  feathers,  as  it  often  does,  it  is,  as  a  rule,  fatal.  To  be 
of  any  avail  treatment  must  be  begun  very  early.  Give  sul- 
phate of  strychnine,  „l-g  grain,  three  times  a  day,  and  color 
the  drinking  water  with  tincture  of  cloride  of  iron.  Feed 
meat,  green  food  and  some  cooked  food,  as  bread  or  mash. 

When  the  patient  is  a  grown  fowl  the  treatment  is  some- 
what different.  Shut  in  a  coop  with  clean  sand  on  the  floor, 
give  calomel,  j\  grain,  every  two  hours  for  five  times,  and  no 
food  of  any  kind,  but  plenty  of  water.  The  next  morning, 
after  these  five  doses,  the  droppings  should  be  found  in  the 
sand,  abundant  and  rather  loose;  if  they  are  not,  give  a  level 
teaspoonful  of  Epsom  salts.  After  the  bird  has  been  well 
physicked  in  this  way  begin  to  feed  soft  food  rather  sparingly 
until  your  patient  seems  really  hungry.  Give  the  strychnine 
and  iron,  as  in  the  previous  case.  As  soon  as  the  appetite 
returns  put  her  back  in  the  run  where  she  can  get  more  exer- 
cise and  variety  of  food.  Watch  her  carefully  and  if  she  grows 
worse  again  repeat  the  former  treatment  of  calomel.  It  is  often 
necessary  to  do  this  three  or  four  times  before  thorough  recov- 
ery takes  place. 

Now  in  conclusion,  just  a  word.  Remember  that  you  will 
be  well  repaid  for  all  the  time  and  pains  which  you  care  to 
spend  in  giving  your  Bantams  all  proper  care  to  keep  them  in 
good  health.  Ou  the  contrary,  in  nursing  sick  Bantams,  your 
time  will  be  frequently  thrown  away.  The  moral  of  this  is: 
Do  your  best  to  prevent  disease,  and  when  it  does  appear,  as  it 
sometimes  will  in  spite  of  your  best  endeavors,  do  not  be  afraid 
to  use  the  hatchet. 


insriDEx:. 


Aseel  Bantams 15 

Best  Time  for  Hatching 8 

Black  Breasted  Red  Game  Bantams 11,  15 

Brown  Red  Game  Bantams 12,  16 

Birchen  Game  Bantams 12 

Booted  Bantams 23 

Brahma  Bantams 25 

Buff  Brahma  Bantams 25 

Buff  Cochin  Bantams 29 

Black  Cochin  Bantams 30,  32 

Burmese  Bantams ■  •  39 

Black  Spanish  Bantams 39 

Black  Langshan  Bantams 39 

Care  and  Management  of  Bantams 8 

Cuckoo  Cochin  Bantams 30 

Cuckoo  Bantams ^' 

Care  of  Bantams 32 

Cold ■+! 

Canker  or  Diphtheritic  Roup +2 

Cholera "^2 

Crop  Bound ■  •  +" 

Chicken  Pox ^'^ 

Dark  Brahma  Bantams 27 

Duckwing  Bantams 13 

Duckwing  Wheaton  Hen 15 

Double  Mating •  ■  ■  ■  28 

Diseases  of  Bantams. •  ■  •  ■  41 

Diarrhea +2 

Food  and  Feeding 7 

Food  and  Water 9 

From  Secretary  National  Bantam  Asso- 
ciation    33 

Frizzled  and  Rumpless  Bantams 36 

Game  Bantams 10 

Golden  Pwckwing  Bantams 16 


Gapes 

Going  Light. 
Housing 

Introduction 

Indian  Game  Bantams. 

Japanese  Bantams 

Light  Brahma  Bantams . 

Leg  Weakness 

Lice 


Mating 

Malay  Bantams 

Nankin  Bantams 

New  Bantams - 

Pyle  Wheaton  Hen •  ■ 

Pekin  or  Cochin  Bantams . 

Partridge  Cochin  Bantams 

Polish  Bantams 

Preparing  for  Exhibition 

Pip- •■■■■ 

Red  Pyle  Bantams 

Red  Wheaton  Hen 

Red  Pyle  Game  Bantams 

Rose  Comb  Bantams 

Roup 

Size  and  Weight 

Starving  Bantams— A  Wrong  Idea . 
Silver  Duckwing  Game  Bantams.. 

Sebright  Bantams 

Sultan  Bantams 

Sultan  or  Booted  White  Polish 

Silky  Bantams 

Scalv  Bantams 

White  and  Black  Bantams 

White  Cochin  Bantams 

Washing  Birds  for  Exhibition ...    , 


DIRECTORY  OF  BANTAM  BREEDERS. 


p^  H.  B.  FRELINOHUYSEN.  Monlslowii,  New  Jersey. 
[^ELLY  BROS.,  Norfolk,  Virginia] 

A  E.  BLUNCK,  Jolinstown,  N.  Y.,  breeder 
^'  and  importer  of  all  varieties  of  Game  and 
Ornamental  Bantams,  Winners  at  New  York 
Boston,  Kansas  City  and  other  leading  shows. 

A.  \  '«*FERSON,  278  Baker  Street,  Detroit.  Mich., 
"^'    breeds  Black  Tailed  Japanese.   Buff   and 


A  RTHUR  PORTER,  Galena,   III.,  breeds  Buff 
»    rnr-hi,,  Ha„t,.„„  .,..„,...:„g]y     Quality,  not 


CIHITH  CURREY,  West  Chester,  Pa.,  breeder 
*-"  of  the  "Golden  Rod"  strain  of  Buff  Cochin 
Bantams  Eggs  from  my  prize  winning  yards, 
S3  per  13.     Breeders  and   exhibition   stock  for 


nR.  WILLIAM  Y.  FOX,  Taanton,  Mass.  White,  Black 
"  and  Buff  Cochin  Bantams.  I  breed  Bantams 
that  win  at  Boston  and  New  York  shows,  and  I 
sell  good  stock  cheap. 

W    H-  BOOART,  II  Amherst  St.,  East  Oranire,  N.  J., 

•     breeder  of  Golden  and  Silver  Sebrights. 
.\  few  choice  sittings  of  eggs  for  .sale  this  season 


Correspondence 


ited. 


A  L.  CUTTING,  Weston,  Mass.  Cuttings 
V*'  Bantams,  bred  in  clover,  have  won  hun- 
dreds of  prizes.  Typical  Rose  Comb  Blacks  and 
wonderful  Cochin  shape.  Buff  Cochin  Bantams 
are  my  specialties. 

PRED  CROSBY,  Seaton,  III.,  breeds  Buff  Cochin 
Bantams  that  win  prizes.  Six  first  prizes 
on  five  birds  at  the  great  Moline  show.  Have 
sold  stock  that  won  at  other  shov 
competition.    Stock  for  sale. 


THE  SOUTH  SIDE  POULTRY  YARDS,  710  Watker  St.. 
■  Milwaukee,  Wis.,  breeders  of  Buff  Cochins  and 
Cochin  Bantams.  Fowls  and  eggs  for  sale  at  all 
.seasons  of  the  year. 

JOHN  M.  LUCKENBILL,  123  So.  lOlh  St  ,  Reading,  Pa., 

"  breeds  Buff  Cochin  Bantams  and  White  Wv- 
andottes  up-to-date  in  size,  shape  and  color. 
Stock  and  eggs  for  sale 


\y   C.  CAPEN,  210  Waohiogton  Avenue,  St.  Louis,  Mo., 

"•has  for  sale  Buff  Cochin  Bantams.    Thor- 
oughbreds.   No  eggs.     No  circulars. 


C     A.   NOFTZQER,    North 

"  wanting  anything  extra  guuu  m  a.  a.  Ke. 
Game  Bantam  fowls,  chicks  or  eggs  write  mc 
I  bred  from  three  of  America's  best  pens  thi 
yeaY.  '^ 

\Y     W.  CLOUQH,  Medway,  Mass.,  owner  o 
'  •      New  England's  largest  Bantam  yards 


nAVID  B.  HUFFMAN,  Box  .)2.  Readvllle,  N  J.,  breeds 
"  Rose  Comb  Black  Bantams.  His  breeders 
are  all  Canadian  or  Madison  Square  winners 
Eggs,  $2.50  per  13.     Stock  according  to  merit. 

W  ROBERT  DUNLOP,  Box  34,  Fayelteviile,  N.  Y., 
"•  breeder  of  S.  C.  Brown  Leghorns  A 
limited  number  of  sittings  from  first-class  birds, 
mated  to  produce  high  class  specimens  Circu- 
lar free. 

r)r.  B.  BEUST,  INew  Albany,  Ind.,  breeder  of 
■-'  Buff  Cochin  Bantams  (McGrew  and  Dr.  Fox 
strains).  Silver  Spangled  Hamburgs,  Golden 
Pheasants,  high  class  English  Carriers,  Satin - 
ettes,  Blondinettes,  Jacobins  and  Archangels. 

r'HARLES  JEHL,  Elberon,  N.  J.,  winner  at 
^  New  York  of  thirtv-one  prizes,  twenty 
specials,  three  cups  and  medals.  Birds  for  sale 
at  J5  per  pair  in  the  following  varieties:  Black 
Red,  Brown  Red  and  Red  Pyle  Game  Bantams, 
and  Black,  White  and  Buff  Cochin  Bantams 


M     M.  FUULARTON,  Leonia,  N.  J.,  b-eeder  of 

"  *^*  Dark  Brahmas  and  Partridge  Coc  i-n  Ban- 
tams.   First-cIass  stock  for  sale.    Write. 

PRITCHARD  &  EMERSON,   Weston,    Mass., 

*  breeders  of  Games  and  Bantams  of  all  varie- 
ties. Write  us  what  you  need.  Prompt  atten- 
tion given  all  inquiries. 


C      B.   FERRELL,   Granbury,    Texas,    breeds 

*-'•       twelve  variVf.Bc  „f  Bantaius  Strictly  up- 

''"  -'-'-       stock  and 


twel 
to-date,  an 
eggs  for  sale.     Circulars  free. 


W  W.  CONQDON,  Oak  Lawn,  R.  I.,  Black, 
,.  *.  White,  Buff  and  Partridge  Cochin, 
Bearded  and  Plain  White  Polish,  White  Booted 
and  Light  Brahma  Bantams.  Eggs  and  stock 
for  sale. 

COL.  JOSEPH  LEPFEL,  Springfield,  Ohio,  is 

^^  the  most  extensive  breeder  of  poultry  and 
pets  in  .America.  -Rabbits,  Guinea  Pigs,  Ferrets 
Pigeons,  Dogs,  Maltese  Cats,  Shetland  Ponies' 


w. 


M.  CLARKE,  Brookfield,  N.  Y.,  breeder 
of  Black  Red  and  Brown  Red  Games, 
and  Black  Red  and  Red  Pvle  Game  Bantams 
Birds  from  my  yards,  in  my  own  and  customers' 
hands  have  won  first  honors  at  all  the  leading 
eastern  shows  in  this  country.  A  few  good 
birds  always  for  sale. 


MAYER,  P.  O.  Box  125,  Brunswick,  Ga., 

breeds  high  class  B.  C.  Bantams,  G.  S 
ntams,  Partridge  Cochins,  W.  C.  Black  Polisl- 
d  Barred  Plymouth  Rocks.    Write  for  prices 


THARLES   C.    REISS,    12lh    and  Elm,    Readini,    Pa. 

o  J'^'";'^*'"'  exhibition  B.  B.  Red,  Red  Pyle  and 
Buff  Pekin  Bantams,  Babcock,  Mohan  and  My- 
ers strains  respectively. 

VyOODCLEFT  POULTRY  YARDS,  Freeporl,  N.  V.    New 

"       York.    Boston     anH    •tt'a=»,i„^t™     „! 


M"*?;  y^A  ^?^^'  <^''«'"  P"'"*'  Kan.,  breeder 
"*  Buff  Cochin  Bantams.  Breeding  and  exhi 
bition  stock  for  .sale.  Nothing  but  scored  birds 
offered.    Eggs,  $2.50  for  10. 

P  L.  FREEMAN,  East  Millstone,  N.  J.,  breeder 
„  *  ,P"^'  White  and  Black  Cochin  Bantams. 
Breeding  stock  rea.sonable  prices.     No  stock  for 


IRAC.  KELLER,  Prospect,  Ohio,  breeder  and 

importer  of  Golden  and  Silver  Sebrights  for 

twenty-five  years.    Winners  at  World's  Fair 


THARLES  C.  MUNROE,  287  Cedar  St.,  New  Bedford,         I 

~     Mass.,  has  .sold  his  Bantams,  but  has  high        " 


J     W.  MULI.MX,  609  South  Erie  St.,  Toledo,  Ohio, 

breeder  of  America's  best  B.  B.  R.  Game 
Bantams  and  Black  Rose  Combs. 

A  LBERT  W.  LEWIS,  Fall  River,  Mass.,  pro 

■•  »  prietor  of  Lakeside  Poultry  Yards,  breeder 
of  Black  Cochins.  Winnings  on  application 
Good  stock  always  for  sale.     Eggs,  $S  per  13. 

fHE  BROOK  RANCH,  Salt  Lake  City,  Utah, 

,,  ^.^f  '"^  """le  ■''°™'=  6"^  Bantam  fowls.    They 
will  take  good  care  of  all  orders. 

DAVID  A.  NICHOLS,  Monroe,  Conn.,  breeder 
^    of  first-class  Black  Cochin  Bantams.   Write 


AMES  HALLENBECK,   Altamont,  N.  Y., 

breeder  Silver  Sebright,  Buff  Cochin,  Black 
Red  Game  Bantams.  Also  Barred  Rocks,  Buff 
and  White  Leghorns.     .4.11  of  the  finest. 

nyiM,"  Gloversville,  N.  Y.    Silver  and  Gol- 
'^     den  Sebrights,  Black  and  White  Cochin 
Bearded  and  non-bearded  White  Polish,  Black 
Red  Game  Bantams;  English  Beagle  Hounds. 

TTHOMAS  PARKER,  Johnstown,  N.  Y.,  breeder 
•  of  exhibition  Bantams.  Black  Reds,  Brown 
Reds,  Duckwings,  Pvles,  Birchens.  White  Game, 
Golden  and  Silver  Sebrights,   White  and  Buff 


I   D.NEYIUS,  403  Provident  Building,  Philadelphia.  Pa.,        C'''^''^'^'^^  HENDERSON,  Springfield,  Ohio,        R 

"■  ..importer  and  breeder  of  Buff,  Black  and        ,  .     Proprietor  'Buckeye  Poultry  Yards,"  breeds        „^ 


COWARD  LYNCH,  S.  1320  Minnehaha  St.,  Hamline,  St. 
'-'  Paul,  Mion.,  breeder  of  White  Crested  White 
Polish  and  Pekin  Bantams,  and  Black  Tailed 
Japanese. 


ANSOM  JONES,  Penn  Yan.  N.  Y.,  breeder  of 

White    Game    and    Buff    Cochin  Bantams. 

gs  and  stock  for  sale.    Satisfaction  guaran- 


I  B.  WEBB.  DeWitt,  Iowa,  breeder  of  Golden 
»'•  Sebright,  White  and  Black  Cochin  Ban- 
tams. Stock  for  sale.  Eggs.  S2  for  15.  Express 
prepaid  on  eggs. 

\un.  McNEIL,  London,  Ontario.  Canada.  For  sale, 
"     White  and  Buff  Cochins,  Golden  and  Silver 


ALEX.  VAN  WYCK,  New  Whatcom,  Wash., 


fi  F.  SOUTHWICK,  Beloit,  Wis.  breeder 
'-••  Black  Minorcas,  Black  .Africans.  Golden 
Sebrights,  White,  Black,  Buff  Cochin  Bantams. 
Peruvian  and  common  Guinea  Pigs.     Eggs  and 


D  F.  SIMONDS,  Garden  City,  Kan.,  breeder  of 
•-'•  the  best  strains  of  following  Bantaius: 
Buff,  White,  Black  Cochin  Bantams,  Black 
Breasted  Red,  Red  Pvle  and  Silver  Duckwing 


J"of''B''i;f?L'?i^'',^Ic'i''l''oc^i;f*ra;ir^i;i\'^^^H\^^^^^        A      ™RNEY.    Elwood.    Ind..   breeder    of    the 
purchased  from   Loii.^?c\-rF?.'',  'Ti'f  ■.",?.  ^'       ^'     <^b?.i'^=s'  ?•.  B;  ^-ds,  S.  D.  Wings,  R.  Pj-le 


M 


purchased  from   Lon 

Boston  Black  cockerel,  also  the  second  Boston 

Buff  cock.    With  such  grand  birds  heading  my 

pens  I  claim  the  equal  of  any  breeder  in   this 

country.     Stock  and  eggs  for  sale  at  reasonable 

prices. 


fi   DALE  McCLASKEY,Papillion,  Neb.,  b 

'-»•.    the  choicest  of  exhibition    Buff    O 


Bautams.   stock  < 


Buff    Cochin 


I  eggs  at  reasonable  prices. 


wings. 
Games,  Silver  Sebrights,  Buff  Pekin  Bantaiiis 
Stock  for  sale.    Eggs  i 


CMIL  0.  RAASCH,  710  Walker  Street,  Milwaukee,  Wis., 
'-'  breeder  of  Buff,  Black,  White  and  Partridge 
Cochin  Bantams.  Stock  and  eggs  for  sale. 
Satisfaction  guaranteed. 

I  YNNHURST  POULTRY  YARDS,aia8sboro,N. J.,  breed- 
'-'  ers  of  high  class  Cochins,  Cochin  and  Jap- 
anese Bantams.  Exhibition  and  breeding  birds 
for  sale.  Eggs  in  season.  Office,  403  Provident 
BuiWiug,  Philadelphia,  Pa, 


DIRECTORY  OF  BANTAM  BREEDERS -Continued. 

^  ^  jt  .^  .^  ^ 


JOHN  BAUSCHER,  Jr.,  Freeport,  III.    Box  222. 
Choice  Buff  Cochin;  Golden   Sebright  and 


CTEM  BROS.,!  Easton,  Pa.,   Midget  Bantam        /"'LIFFORD  QOTT,  Horsforth,  Leeds,  England, 

'-'    Yards.     Buff:  and    Black  Cochin  Bantams.        V^'  originatorofCornishlndian  Game  Bantams. 


Waverly  and  Alle 


rHARLES  M.  SMITH,  167  Crystal  Street,  Brooklyn,  N.  V. 

^  Prize  winning  Buff  and  White  Cochin,  Black 
Rose  Comb  Bantams.  Eggs,  f2  per  13.  Stock  in 
season . 

AC.  TOMB,  Eureka,  III.,  breeder  of  Bantams 
•  that  are  winners.  Buff  and  White  Cochin 
Bantams.  Stock  for  sale  at  reasonable  prices. 
Egg.s  in  season. 

ER.  SPAULDINQ,  Jaffrey,  N.  H.,  breeder 
•  B.  B.  Red  and  Game  Bantams;  twenty- 
five  years  e.^perieuce.  We  breed  and  sell  birds 
that  win  at  best  shows. 


and  fast  becoming  variety  of 
Winners  at  all  best  English  shows.  Latest, 
two  firsts,  second,  third,  Birmingham;  two 
firsts,  medal,  special,  second,  Leeds.  Also  Sil- 
ver Sebright,  Frizzle,  Rose  Comb,  Pekin,  and 
Old  English  Game  Bantams.  Commissions 
executed.   Highest  references.   Stamp  for  reply. 


CE.  ROCKENSTYRE,  Albany,  N.  Y.,  twenty 
•  years  an  importer,  breeder  and  judge  of 
all  standard  varieties  of  Bantams.  Only  the 
best  kept  or  sold. 

JB.  VOSS,  Davenport,  Iowa,  breeder  of  the 
•      pure    Ainscough  Black  Red  Game  Ban- 


jpest  in   the   end.    Try 


MRS.  B.  HOLLARD,  Highland,  III.  Bargain; 
in  Buff  Cochin  Bantams  bred  from  bird; 
that  are  true  buff  and  pure  blooded,  if  taken 
soon,  7Sc  to  J2  each.     First-class  stock. 


P    HENRV  GALUSHA,  229  Water 

'-'•    breeder  of  high  class  exhibitio    , 

tal    Bantams.     Highest    honors    at    America's 

largest  shows.    Correspondence  .solicited.     . 

lOHN  MELVIN,  Whitinsville,  Hass.,  breeder 
**  Black  B.  Red  and  Pyle  Red  Game,  Black  and 
White  Rose  Comb  and  Sebright  Bantams.  My 
breeding  stock  is  imported. 


and  variety  Bantams.  If  you  do  not.-believe  it, 
look  up  the  awards  of  the  great  shows.  Eggs 
in  season.     Stock  for  sale.     Send  for  price  card. 

WILLIAM  H.  MACBOLDT,  1167  Myrtle  Ave.,  near  Broad- 
wav,  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.,  breeder  Buff  Cochin 
Bantams.  Birds  small,  well  feathered.  Color 
eggs  for  sale  in  season. 

IRVIN  S  MILLER,  397  CbewS'.,Allenlowo,Pa.,  breeder 
'  of  Bantams,  all  varieties.  Japanese,  Golden 
and  Silver  Sebrights,  Black  Rose  Comb,  Bearded, 
White  Crested  Polish  Bantams. 


HUan  C.  BEELMAN,  808  Warren  Avenue,  Chicago,  III  . 
breeder  of    Golden   Sebrights  exclusively. 
Quality  right,  prices  reasonable.     Stock  birds 


LL.  LUCAS,  Oil  City,  Pa.,  breeder  of  Gold 
•    Strain  Buff  Cochin  Bantams.     Prices  from 
Jl  up.     Stock  for  sale  at  all  times.     Satisfaction 

PHILANDER  WILLIAHS,  Taunton  Hass., 
breeder  of  Buff  and  Black  Cochin  Bantams 
and  Golden  Sebright  Bantams.  Have  bred  the 
Sebrights  for  thirtv  years.    Stock  for  sale. 


1  breeder  thoroughbred  fowls 
Langshans.  Originator  of  Black  Langshan  Ban- 
tams.   No  eggs  for  sale. 

D  LINCOLN  ORR,  Orr's  iVlills,  N.  Y.,  importer 
•  and  breeder  of  Light  and  Dark  Brahma 
Bantams.  Elegant  little  fellows  that  will  please. 
No  eggs. 

E     LATHAM,  FiStbush,   Long  Island,  N.  Y. 
•      Golden  Rod  strain  Buff  Cochin  Bantams, 
bred  to  successfully  compete  with  America's 


_  White  Rose  Poultry'  Farm.  Bantams. 
Beauties  and  winners.  Black  Cochin.  Black 
Red  Games.  Buff  Cochin.  Red  Pyle  Games. 
White  Cochins,  Bearded  and  Crested  White  Pol- 
ish.    Eggs  and  stock  in  season. 


birds  a  specialty 


Highest    type  of  exhibil 


SD.   DRURY,   Northampton,   Hass.,    breeds 
•     Golden  Sebrights  only  for  love  of  excel- 
lence in  the  breed,  not  for  the    profits    in    the 


